Me to, thanks...3,7-3.8 qts.

 

Yw. Basically I make sure the car is level and drain the fluid out into a translucent paint bucket and mark the level with a sharpie. After that I fill the (clean) bucket up to the level of the sharpie and pump the fluid back in... warm the trans to 100 degrees and check the level and it's always been spot on.

 

Hey davison0976 (OR ANYONE WHO CAN HELP), I really need your help man. I’m 17 and just bought a 2012 g37 sedan for my first car. I’m literally in love with this car but it’s at 127k miles and needs the transmission fluid changed ASAP. I have some questions. So I watched a couple videos about changing the transmission fluid, basically just unbolting the drain plug, draining It, dropping the pan to clean it up a little bit, then putting everything back and pumping the new fluid in (about 5 quarts) then running the car in all gears. It honestly looks pretty simple the only problem is, from what I’ve heard, this only replaces about half the fluid in the transmission. And the real problem is that my car is kinda up there in mileage and I don’t know for sure but from what I can tell based on the CarFax the fluid has never been swapped. It could’ve been but it’s not on the CarFax so there’s no way of knowing. Anyways, I really want to replace as much fluid as possible but I’m just a little confused. Could you explain the radiator cooling hoses situation? How could I use that to “flush” the transmission? Honestly, the simple draining and refilling the pan way makes sense but flushing it has got me real confused. Could I just drain the pan and refill it then run the car in all gears and repeat the process like 3 or 4 times to get all the old fluid out? Is it that simple? And if I did do the drain, refill and repeat like 3x process should I have the car running the entire time or should I stop the car when I am draining? I assume so but also is there any specific temperature the pan/fluid needs to be at each round or something. I know people check the temperature for something but am not exactly sure what for, could you explain that? Also each round after each drain and refill should I just run the car for a few mins and shift between all gears or do I need to drive the car a little bit between each drain and refill? And just a few more questions. Why did you only jack the front of your car up at first? I’ve heard the car needs to be completely level when replacing trans fluid. What should I clean the pan with? I’ve heard brake cleaner, is that okay? Should I replace the gasket and if so do I need any silicone to hold the gasket in place? And lastly, I know you didn’t replace the filter but I’ve seen it for sale on multiple websites so do you think it would be a good idea to replace the filter? I know it’s a lot of questions but I want to be well informed before I attempt this. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

Old thread, but always relevant - here's my 2 cents for a very easy ATF change:

Since our g37 has ATF rubber hoses running to the cooler at the radiator, if we disconnect those at the clamp, and connect them to a see-thru hose each, and run one hose to an empty bucket, and the other hose into a 4-quart Dexron VI (Nissan Matic S equivalent), then all that needs doing is switching on the engine - and then the ATF will be pumped thru the system, the old fluid exits into the bucket, and the new fluid is sucked into the tranny. Just watch until clean ATF starts coming out into the bucket, and switch off engine, and all fluid is fresh, without messing with temperature level, and even without going under the car.

Just need to figure out the circulation direction, in order to place the right outlet and inlet hose, prolly by looking at little arrows on the black cooler hoses showing the direction of the flow.

Has anyone used this method, or are there reasons that it should not be applied?

 

Your actually a genius. I’m definitely gonna be doing this method, although I’ll still probably get under the car to take the pan off to clean real good. Where exactly are those hoses located and is this essential to a flush? Like if you do this then there’s no need to swap the fluid and run the tranny 3x. Any idea how much fluid I would need?

 

Well, LOOL, I'm just a newbie here, and new to G37s, so better wait for the real wisdom from the forum experienced members. I'm an older 4x4 dawg and done ATF changes like this on many different trucks, but there might be some reason it can't apply to the more refined 7-speed tranny. It's not like I invented this method, and I learned it from buddies and forums just the same as I'm sharing it here. As for capacity, for a 100% change for the 7 speed RE7R01A Total Fill 9.2 litres / 9.7 US Quarts, according to AMSOIL.com/lookup for a 2009 G37.

 

Ok what about total refill for a 2012 g37? Also do you own a g37? I’m kind of a newbie too and this method sounds so easy. I really want to try it. Can anyone experienced confirm this won’t damage my tranny? And show me where the coolant hoses are for the tranny fluid?

 

If you have a 7-speed auto tranny, it's the same capacity. I do own a fantastic 2009 G37S coupe, white - awesome machine, and I'm really digging it! It won't damage your transmission as it relies on the in-built pump to circulate the fluid, just like happens every time you run the engine - it's not a flush. Just put in the same amount as comes out, don't let it run dry, and then afterwards check the level anyways (since you don't know if you're starting off with the correct amount already in). The tranny will have 2 black rubber hoses running towards the front of the engine - they will connect with the bottom of your radiator, and they'll be clamped on. You need to figure out which way the fluid circulates, look for little white arrows printed into the hoses - and if not, just put both into a bucket and have a mate switch on the engine for a sec. You'll see right away which hose is the outlet. Usually 10mm see-thru hose fits perfectly.

 

Ok but it essentially is a flush in the sense that your replacing 100% of the fluid in the transmission? Just for a quick run down, let me know if something sounds incorrect, but you disconnect both black hoses running to the radiator, find the outlet, stick the inlet into a quart of fresh fluid, outlet into a bucket, turn the car on, run tranny in all gears, put inlet in a new quart once you run out, and just run the tranny until fresh fluid comes out of the outlet, then measure what came out and make sure you refill exactly what came out, and lastly check fluid level to make sure you’re not low? A few questions. Once I turn the car on do I need to run the tranny in all the different gears to complete this process or do I just let it idle in park? Will fluid right away start to come out or not until I shift gears? (And yes I have a 7 speed auto) Also when the car is turned off when I first disconnect the hoses will a bit a fluid leak out at first or will it be completely dry? And when ever the first quart goes in and I’m empty do I have to instantly shut the car off to switch to a new bottle so I don’t run dry? And lastly, is there anyway to control the old fluid out or is it like the second I turn the car on fluid just spews out of the outlet hose? And when my new bottle gets close to empty how do I keep fluid from coming out so I can switch bottles and not run dry?

 

Good questions - for a flush they hook you up to an outside pump and circulate solvents, sometimes at high pressure. Not for me, not for my car.

The instant you turn on the engine, the AT pump starts working, so you need to be ready with your hoses, bucket, and fresh ATF before you (or a buddy) hits the start button. The outlet hose needs to be secure in the bucket - I duck tape it to the handle.

​​​​​And yes, halfway thru you need to swap to a new canister of fresh ATF - for the first time doing it, I'd advise you to switch off the engine, so you can pull out the hose calmly and transfer it over, but if you've done it a few times it's possible to just quickly and smoothly draw the hose out and back into the fresh ATF in a few seconds. You also need to have a big enough bucket for the old stuff, so careful on that end, too. The waste hose can be real long and any kind of plastic, but the hose that'll suck the fresh ATF into the tranny can't be that soft plastic that will collapse under suction, and you want it nice and short, straight into the ATF canister. It doesn't have to be see-thru, but it's good to see that the fluid is moving along and you'll see the fluid color change when all the old stuff is out and fresh ATF starts going into your bucket.

And your last question - yes, when you unclamp and pull off the AT hoses from the radiator, there will be some fluid dripping out, so you'll need to catch that.

Getting a bit advanced now, but if you know the direction of the flow, and you have a see-thru hose of the same internal diameter as the black hose, that will attach to the metal nozzle on the radiator, then you just remove the one rubber hose that returns the flow to the tranny, and quickly slip on the waste hose onto the radiator nozzle in its place. And into the black hose, you shove the see-thru hose that will suck up the fresh ATF.

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Yeah I knew about the flush machine. That’s for a “true” flush but anytime you replace 100% of the fluid that’s a “flush” in my book. Anyways, this is making a lot of sense thanks for the help man. Just a couple more questions. So there’s really no need to shift between all the gears to make sure the new fluid gets in there real good? Or should I do that at the end once all the new fluid is in? Also you said about halfway through I’d need to switch bottles. Well, if I’m working with quarts and my tranny holds 9-10 quarts I’m gonna be switching bottles way more than just once, right? So for my first time I should just play it safe and take my time by turning the car off each time right? Lastly, for the hose into the new fluid, the plastic basically just needs to be that real hard, stiff tubing, correct? And back to your first post, any reason I shouldn’t attempt this? (I don’t know if you know but...)

 

Yes, leave it in park. You can buy large ATF containers instead of 1-quart bottles, but if you're going to be swapping over 9 bottles, you'll learn to do it quickly and smoothly while the engine is running. And yup, hard plastic tubing is better. I don't know of any negatives from using this method, except an advantage when you drop the pan is you get to clean the debris off the magnets.

 

Thanks for all the help man! I’m definitely gonna be doing this method. I’m gonna drop the pan too to clean it real good but this method is way easier than draining and refilling the pan like 3 times. I’m just confused about one thing. So I leave it in park but then once new fluid is coming out into the bucket I should shut the engine off, connect the hoses and then at that point do I run the tranny in all gears? Cause I know with the traditional drop the pan method once refilled your supposed to turn the car on and shift between all the gears to get the new fluid into all the gears and torque converter. So at what point do I shift between all the gears?

 

Yes, reconnect the hoses, run thru the gears, and check the level.

 

Thanks man! Helped a lot.