I definitely don’t think it’s a T30. It’s a standard metric hex. I’m not sure of the size but I have one of the metric folding hex bits which I got from harbor freight and it worked perfectly.

 

I think it was a size 5 hex when I did it

 

To show I'm not completely crazy. Here is why the 5 mm hex didn't work.

Luckily vice grips did!

 

Wow, I definitely did not have that much trouble. Mine was pretty easy to get out.

 

Wow, yeah i didn't have a problem like that either when I did it. ?

 

Folks i"m in the thick of this. 2009 G37X I have successfully done oil, front and rear diff, transfer case. Pan is down and cleaned with brake cleaner, plus the bolts. Mine has the thicker gasket.....how do you keep that thing from slipping around? Start at a corner then slide it if it slips and secure another corner? Seems like a plan but curious if some other easier way. Has been a real long day, productive but tiring. Thanks!

Oh P.S. gasket wiped down i with lint free cloth. Does it need anything between it and pan?

 

1st ATF drain.

Definite particles in pan but for the mileage pretty good.



Pic just cuz what I did to get to it.





And now the drip some 6 hours later. First pic one drip, slid towel over to capture another ~4-5 mins later.




If I can resolve it myself I'd like to, but there is local chain shop close and could prob get a set price for them to put it up and verify torque on all the bolts if that's what issue is. Also could probably get them to do one final flush with extra ATF if that would be a good idea due to possible under-fill...?

After second fill it did shift/cycle through the gears much smoother as it did when new. Have only done that and not driven yet.

Advanced Auto Parts has the Valvoline Max buy one get one 50%, which averages out same as Walmart but Advanced has it in stock where Walmart have to order.

Appreciate any help/ideas/suggestions. Thanks!

 

First portion of post didn't go through for some reason...

2009 G37X had since new, 105K. Transfer case done at 55K, differentals evidently never...can't find any record and I keep them all.

I did flush and fill 3x last night. It went pretty well but I do have a drip in one spot...it's one drip about every 4-5 min. I put in what was taken out. Had to guesstimate the amount spilage when pan taken down. Only issue was on the final when I pulled the fill line,did not get the forceful stream....it ran with nothing coming out. When I turned the car off I then got a good stream for about 30s which turned into very small stream at which, at which point I put fill plug in. Did I underestimate the amount of spillage? I have another 5qt of ATF.

My torque wrench was a little large and hard to do many of the pan bolts so I guestimated base on how they were to take off (not bad at all), plus I was being timid with them so wouldn't strip or break. The differentials and transfer case I got good clicks on the torque values.

I cleaned all the pan bolts with break cleaner and other than the front bolts (due to obstructions) no issues getting them in. The drip is at the back of the pan.

Worked on this (both differentials, transfer case, oil change, plus 3x flush n fill) from 10:30 am til 4:00 am, and right now I'm too sore to get back under it, but I can later. Just wondering what to do. If i can find the offending bolt, pull it clean again and put some thread sealant? Any suggestions?


Rear diff plug was not bad 1st pull. Did it 3 times but really only needed two




Front diff and setup (use lots more towels than I did) to keep fluid from getting everywhere. Funnel captured the plug.





Front diff plug was definitely worse than rear. Needed good 3x and came out clean on 4th.




Transfer case was changed at 55K so it looked almost new.

 

Great work.

when I did my ATF work I also bought a new gasket from Cobra transmissions to fit on the pan.

However, when I dropped the pan, the old gasket stuck in place. firm enough that it wouldn't budge when touched with my finger, but I suspect I could have shifted it easy with a plastic scrapers. So I left mine on the pan. You can use some of the permatex red gasket sealer on the new gasket - just a few tiny blobs to hold it in place as you bolt it back up.

Mine, as like yours leaked after I bolted it back together. I had a talk with Jesus moment. One bolt stripped and wouldn't go back in. Without this I had the weep. I bought another bolt to replace it from the store. I managed to coax the new bolt in. It still leaked. I borrowed a torque wrench and backed off all the bolts, and nipped it up correctly, and thankfully - we're good! I used the opposite tightening technique.

Good luck and let us know how you fair.

 

Thanks for the reply Spadds76. The gasket was in great shape but it's probably good at this point to replace. I will just get a shop to drop it again, install a new gasket, and then do overfill and level it out. I looked back over stuff I had saved and saw the ITB11-036...it's clear it's under-filled so I need to do one more round which will make 4X fill/flush. I kinda knew gaskets usually need some liquid between them and whatever, but I don't recall anyone mentioning sealant or brand they used in doing this. It is probably understood and goes without saying. Maybe Infiniti didn't need it for all I knew though. Obviously I'm learning.

Oh well shouldn't be a big deal to get this pretty quick. Big problem is finding some place to do it. The minute you say transmission fluid/flush they want to hook it up to their pressure flush machine and quote you standard price for that service... They're all on autopilot that way, but I'll find someone who can read the bulletin, understand what's needed, and do it for reasonable price. Thanks again.

 

Finally replaced ATF in my Q50 2014 on 60k miles. Amsoil ATF was chosen. Everything was drained, oil pan removed and metal filter, cleaned, filled with new oil, after that ATF hose from radiator was disconnected, engine started for around 30 sec, 1l of old fluid was pushed out, 1l of new fluid was added through disconnected hose (these steps were repeated 3-4 times, until fresh clean fluid start to come out from radiator. In the end almost 1l more was filled vs drained, looks like trany was under filled by previous owners.
Previously transmission was running ok, but kick downs were unpredictable and quite delayed (around 1-2 sec to drop from 5th to 2nd gear). After oil change and adjusting properly ATF level the difference is HUGE, gears go down much much faster, gears switch crisp and clear. Looks like I had some clutch slippage before, now I fill more toque on rear wheels, filling is very similar to manual transmission. Very happy with the effect of oil change, I even couldn't imaging that there could be such big effect.
I followed these instructions ?????? ????? ? ???? INFINITI FX35 (2-?? ????????? S51)

 

Did the drain-fill with 3.7 qts out - 3.7 in using pump made in diy thread....super easy. Rolled it up on Rhino ramps, my driveway is tilted so it was almost level. Old fluid looked trashed. Took a short test drive, planning on another drain-fill at next oil change in 1k miles. Did the sport pedals yesterday - that's one day's dirt on those mats....work boots and all. Not going to do accel pedal yet, maybe after my Redline steering wheel.

 

This is exactly the way I do it measure what comes out and put exact back in. In fact I do 1x drain and fill every 10k or so...May be over kill but I drive alot of miles and transmission shifts quick and smooth like new!

 

What do you typically get out of a drain? does it vary?

 

Around 4qts if I remember correctly