DIY: G37 Automatic Transmission Fluid Change, Pan Drop/Clean
Yeah, I had a cone shaped plastic adapter left over from a brake vacuum bleed kit that I made work with my fluid pump. Just seems like a poor design, a quart and a half drained out when I first pulled the "fill plug". You would think they would have made the tube tall enough that when fluid stopped coming out of that plug (overflow) that it was set at the right level for the tranny.
I Just did my last weekend with Maxlife fluid without any issues. I bought 4 galons and use about 3 1/4 and the rest for transfer case and power steering. I didn't drop the pan because I can't find gasket anywhere online, will make final drain when available.
2010 G37x 120K
2010 G37x 120K
Ah! Thanks I missed that... I just measured how much I took out and put the same amount back in. I will try to with the car idling next time...
Now I need to figure out which diff oil to use? I believe I have the LSD in the rear from how it drives (and there are sensors like ABS sensors on both output axel shafts next to the pumpkin).
Pan gasket is Nissan 313971XJ0A
Here's a vendor
https://www.nissanpartswebstore.com/...13971XJ0A.html
Here's a vendor
https://www.nissanpartswebstore.com/...13971XJ0A.html
Here's the google listing for that part # maybe you can find something in there, don't have it otherwise 
https://www.google.com/search?q=niss...utf-8&oe=utf-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=niss...utf-8&oe=utf-8
Here's the google listing for that part # maybe you can find something in there, don't have it otherwise 
https://www.google.com/search?q=niss...utf-8&oe=utf-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=niss...utf-8&oe=utf-8
So...... it's listed as a Drain Plug......... hummmm.......
Can someone who has one of those fill tube adapters measures the threads? Please.
I'm going to take a guess that it's M12x1.25.
Last edited by The Pope; Nov 13, 2017 at 12:40 PM.
The fill plug is M8, you can use 1/4 PVC Barb fitting to screw in without leaking.
Regarding of checking ATF fluid, make sure your car jack up and level both front and rear.
Fill the fluid to the same amount as you drain plus 1/2 quart extra, start your engine with your car still up and level, measure the temp outside of AT oil case to about 95 to 113F, Open your fill plug (not drain plug) and let the fluid out until drip then close the plug. If no fluid come out, turn off the engine and fill another 1/2 quart of ATF, let the engine cool down and start again. This is a painful process but I think it's more accurate than checking with dip stick.
Regarding of checking ATF fluid, make sure your car jack up and level both front and rear.
Fill the fluid to the same amount as you drain plus 1/2 quart extra, start your engine with your car still up and level, measure the temp outside of AT oil case to about 95 to 113F, Open your fill plug (not drain plug) and let the fluid out until drip then close the plug. If no fluid come out, turn off the engine and fill another 1/2 quart of ATF, let the engine cool down and start again. This is a painful process but I think it's more accurate than checking with dip stick.
I believe the fill adapter is M8x1
The actual adapter can be had for about $20 CTA Tools 7425
If you find an M8 x 1.0 hose barb for a few dollars and it works, please let me know so I can update my ATF pump DIY to reflect the lower cost option. I can't see why it wouldn't. I'd just put an o-ring at the base to help it seal.
The actual adapter can be had for about $20 CTA Tools 7425
If you find an M8 x 1.0 hose barb for a few dollars and it works, please let me know so I can update my ATF pump DIY to reflect the lower cost option. I can't see why it wouldn't. I'd just put an o-ring at the base to help it seal.
Last edited by Victory; Nov 12, 2017 at 03:15 PM.
I believe the fill adapter is M8x1
The actual adapter can be had for about $20 CTA Tools 7425
If you find an M8 x 1.0 hose barb for a few dollars and it works, please let me know so I can update my ATF pump DIY to reflect the lower cost option. I can't see why it wouldn't. I'd just put an o-ring at the base to help it seal.
The actual adapter can be had for about $20 CTA Tools 7425
If you find an M8 x 1.0 hose barb for a few dollars and it works, please let me know so I can update my ATF pump DIY to reflect the lower cost option. I can't see why it wouldn't. I'd just put an o-ring at the base to help it seal.
I just need to know for sure what the thread is.
So, I'll ask again (like I did in one of my prior post #156)..... Can someone who has the adapter please measure the threads and post what they are?
How did you guys measure how much ATF came out and how much to put in?
Also does anyone have a picture of the rear jack point for the g37? I'm having trouble finding it. I dont want to jack it up in the wrong spot and cause damage.\
Also how many gallons of maxlife ATF should I buy for drain and fill?
Also does anyone have a picture of the rear jack point for the g37? I'm having trouble finding it. I dont want to jack it up in the wrong spot and cause damage.\
Also how many gallons of maxlife ATF should I buy for drain and fill?
Last edited by Dan G37; Nov 19, 2017 at 07:28 PM.
How did you guys measure how much ATF came out and how much to put in?
Also does anyone have a picture of the rear jack point for the g37? I'm having trouble finding it. I dont want to jack it up in the wrong spot and cause damage.\
Also how many gallons of maxlife ATF should I buy for drain and fill?
Also does anyone have a picture of the rear jack point for the g37? I'm having trouble finding it. I dont want to jack it up in the wrong spot and cause damage.\
Also how many gallons of maxlife ATF should I buy for drain and fill?
Rear jack point is the bottom of the rear differential, and the two rear side rails for the jackstand placement (the same place you locate the OEM scissor jack). You can also put jackstands under your rear spring buckets too.
I used a bucket w/ gallon & quart stripes, not this one but this would work too, it's on walmart.com

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Leaktite-...&wl13=&veh=sem




