davison0976

Thank you Mach. Yes, indeed, these drain/fills can be tricky to calculate in terms of how much old fluid is left. Below is a general framework applicable directly to this thread with the numbers from my very first D&F at the start of the thread as an example.


Notice how the first 2 drains give you the most result. After that most of the fluid you drain is the new fluid you had just pumped in the previous step. You still end up with about 12% of the old fluid left.




ATF Drain/Fill % of old fluid left.

jltskfl

Hi. I had to read all 17 pages so as to make sure my question wasn't previously covered:

Has anyone searched for a rubber or plastic plugged/capped hole at the top of this tranny where a dip stick tube should/would have gone? My 2013 Altima also did not come with a CVT dip stick. 'Sealed' they said. I bought a dip stick for a 2012 and installed it into my transmission. Now I have an easy way to put new fluid in it without this hand pump setup, and I have a dip stick. I simply exactly measure the amount I removed and replace it. No fiddling with temperatures, level-ness, etc.

I'd rather know this before I start messing with my gf's 2013 G37. If no one knows or answers I'll look for an opening and update.

Also, the m8-1.0 to barb fittings are on ebay for $2 from china or $5 from USA.

There is a new filter assy available for this transmission: ALLOMATIC #515785 I don't know if it is an actual filter, or just a screen.

puro

Is it crucial to drop the pan? I was thinking of doing the drain and fill x 3 and then sticking a rare earth magnet to the bottom of the pan. I already built the diy transmission fluid pump from the other thread.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Depends how many miles on your G, If it's in the 65-70k mile or more I would definitely do the pan drop. Doesn't really take too long and there is a good amount of residue in there once you get to that mile range.

puro

Yea I think I'll just drop it then. The car is at 92k and I have no previous records so I'm going to assume it was not done before.

*edit: Just finished dropping pan and 3 drains and refills. Fluid was pretty dark. I could see through the fluid that it was still brownish. After the 2nd drain it was pretty much new fluid color. It was probably a helluva lot easier since I built the trans fluid pump. I could just open and close the ball valve. The one question I have though is on the last step where you have it running in park.. it says to close it back up once it starts dripping. It was a steady stream and then suddenly changed to a much smaller stream and I closed it... was I suppose to wait a while until it was literally dripping? Car seems to shift and drive fine.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

You were probably close to the drip point, I wouldn't stress over that.

davison0976

No word from Blackstone Laboratories yet on the ATF analysis. The parcel was delivered to them on Jan 27, before noon according to the tracking. They are probably short handed because of the summer and a holiday week. Will keep you all posted.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Hopefully it was June 27th

davison0976

June 27th indeed . Thank you for pointing this out. Don't know what I was thinking.

davison0976

Well Folks, here is the ATF analysis from Blackstone. Not boring you with any additional commentary since the history of the transmission is all in this thread.

b15

I just did 2 drain and fills using this DIY on my Q50. I bought a M8x1 1/4" hose barb for $4 and it screwed into the fill plug perfectly. Coupled with the garden hose pump/sprayer- made life much easier getting fluid back in.

In total, I ran about 10 quarts through it and it seems to be smoother/more crisp now. I know Infiniti released a TSB saying color change is normal, but I was just shocked to see how dark brown it was compared to the bright red new Matic S fluid, especially at 29k miles. My Hondas and Toyotas always came out a dark red so this was a first seeing brown. Looked almost like used motor oil. Since I bought 12 quarts, went ahead and changed the transfer case fluid as well with the leftover Matic S.

Kudos to the OP and this forum, lots of useful information here for the weekend warrior like myself. Keep it up guys!

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Did you do a pan drop too??^^^

b15

Just drain and fills. Dropped the pan once on a different car and it ended up being a big ordeal due to broken bolts so I don't do it anymore. Just follow a drain and fill schedule every 30k or so

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

I'd give it a shot next time unless you live in the rust belt and the bolts are a mess, quite a bit on that pan & magnets TBH, mine was real easy and even the gasket was still pristine after 70k miles

fengyink

Thanks to OP for the first write up. A few details could be helpful:
1. Tools: T35/40 torx bit to open the drain plug. 4.5mm hex key also works. 19mm socket for drain plug. 10mm socket for drain pan.
2. Transmission pan is behind engine oil pan (it's clear to most of us). Both plugs are on the driver side. Refill plug is in the front and drain is on the rear.
3. In my case, 2011 G37x sedan (7 years) with 46k miles, the drained fluid appears completely degenerated. It depends more on how frequently shift happens than other absolute mileage. Symptoms include increasing sluggish shift in D, rough down rev match in DS (caused by delay) and car slightly roll forward in neutral.
4. To clean the pan, use gasoline based solvent, micro fiber wipe, and then brake cleaner. Allow enough time to dry (brake cleaner_.
5. Choose a cool day to do the job (65F to 75F) so that it cools fast between drain and refill and you do not have to wait long for it to warm up.
6. It is quite messy - card board ready.
7. Combine transfer case (maybe rear diff) is a good add on (esp you are waiting for transmission to cool off).

Problem in 3 solved by 80% - still roll forward a little if I throttle to 3k rpm.