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We don't drive our G nearly as much as we did the first 6 years, so I think a 1x D&F every 20k miles would seem to be about right, and a pan drop every other D&F.
Good stuff in this thread, thanks again for starting this davison, and Victory along with others for adding some good info along the way!
We don't drive our G nearly as much as we did the first 6 years, so I think a 1x D&F every 20k miles would seem to be about right, and a pan drop every other D&F.
Good stuff in this thread, thanks again for starting this davison, and Victory along with others for adding some good info along the way!
Youre welcome!
Honestly, it's probably the same effort to do a 1x drain and fill as it is to do a 3x as the parts of the procedure that take the most time are jacking the car up level and adjusting the fluid level at the end. Since both procedures require a 4 corner lift to keep things flat, I'd just do the 3x every other time you service the differential(s) (60k mi)
Honestly, it's probably the same effort to do a 1x drain and fill as it is to do a 3x as the parts of the procedure that take the most time are jacking the car up level and adjusting the fluid level at the end. Since both procedures require a 4 corner lift to keep things flat, I'd just do the 3x every other time you service the differential(s) (60k mi)
Yeah I honestly wanna thank you and all the others! The info I gathered the past few days has been phenomenal!
I am fairly sensitive to vehicle performance in general. For example, I can feel/hear a difference when 5w40 vs 5w30 oil is used. For vehicles where 87 octane specified I can feel when 93 was put in or when it is not.
That said, I couldn't feel any difference between Amsoil and Pennzoil ATFs. Both exhibit smooth shifting during slow acceleration and very crisp sifts at high acceleration.
My transmission isn't smoothest shifting one though. Even before any ATF change in my G37 I had it in for a front differential service at around 12,000 miles. Dealership gave me a Q50 loaner with VQ37VHR engine and same 7AT our G37s have. Because I had an appointment, I was out of my G37 and in Q50 within 15 minutes. I noticed transmission in Q50 was shifting noticeably smother. I don't know what that is, they probably have different tune on Q50s. See, G35 was an enthusiast car really with something raw about it in terms of steering feel, transmission shifting etc. G37 was continuing the tradition. I feel in Q50 they wanted to give you more comfort and less road feel.
Is there really a big difference for 5w40 and 5w30 oil or is it 10w30? I've got to change my oil in about 1k miles, what are the differences you feel between the 2 types of oil? Also thanks again for starting such a great thread! I've learned so much these past few days and can't be thankful enough.
I have one more question, when you drain the transmission oil is the car supposed to be running the whole time? Or after 2nd drain while switching gears, and when you switch gears how quickly do you shift through them?
There's plenty of opinions on what weight oil is best, typically 5w/30 is the standard weight, some run as thin as 0-20, not too many that I've heard run much thicker. I've run 5/30 for my last 2 Gs and all is good, I also use the larger Nissan/Infiniti 4.5/5.6liter V8 filters and Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic at 6-7k intervals. If you're still under warranty I'd stick w/ the 5w/30.
As far as draining the ATF, you only drain it when it's shut off, but you do keep it running when you're full and opening the fill tube plug to run off the extra fluid to get it at the proper fill level. Hope that makes sense, and when running through the gears do as davison did, run it for 3 minutes and in this sequence~P->R->N->D and back, just keep each gear for about 15 seconds give or take, then shift to the next.
And yeah Victor, that extra time and $$ to do a 3x D&F is insignificant at that point, might as well keep it as fresh as possible. Maybe split the difference and do it every 30k perhaps since that will probably be at least a 3 yr time frame with how we've been driving it.
We don't drive our G nearly as much as we did the first 6 years, so I think a 1x D&F every 20k miles would seem to be about right, and a pan drop every other D&F.
Good stuff in this thread, thanks again for starting this davison, and Victory along with others for adding some good info along the way!
I think it's a good idea to start with that. At the end of the day it's about having that comfort level knowing that the fluid is fresh and there is limited quantity of break-in metals in the ATF. Once you start seeing how fresh the ATF you drain is and how unsubstantial the amount of break-in metals at the bottom of the ATF oil pan you may start extending the service interval. But for some of us, myself included, it's a personal journey of getting to that comfort zone of longer drain/refill interval.
Some people say it's a waste of money. Yet I see some of those people wasting $100+ on booze each weekend while 1 drain/fill once a year or two runs at $25 plus a few hours of personal time.
I think it's a good idea to start with that. At the end of the day it's about having that comfort level knowing that the fluid is fresh and there is limited quantity of break-in metals in the ATF. Once you start seeing how fresh the ATF you drain is and how unsubstantial the amount of break-in metals at the bottom of the ATF oil pan you may start extending the service interval. But for some of us, myself included, it's a personal journey of getting to that comfort zone of longer drain/refill interval.
Some people say it's a waste of money. Yet I see some of those people wasting $100+ on booze each weekend while 1 drain/fill once a year or two runs at $25 plus a few hours of personal time.
One quick question, what did you use to clean the Transmission pan? I hear people using brake cleaner. Whats a safe way of cleaning it? Thanks again for starting this thread!
One quick question, what did you use to clean the Transmission pan? I hear people using brake cleaner. Whats a safe way of cleaning it? Thanks again for starting this thread!
Is there really a big difference for 5w40 and 5w30 oil or is it 10w30? I've got to change my oil in about 1k miles, what are the differences you feel between the 2 types of oil? Also thanks again for starting such a great thread! I've learned so much these past few days and can't be thankful enough.
I have one more question, when you drain the transmission oil is the car supposed to be running the whole time? Or after 2nd drain while switching gears, and when you switch gears how quickly do you shift through them?
Hi Dan. Like Blnewt mentioned the engine should be OFF when draining and refilling transmission. I'll stress that the engine MUST be OFF. You don't want your transmission to run dry. Like when you change motor oil you don't run the engine. Once you refilled transmission with the ATF and both fill and drain plugs are closed and tightened you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to mix new fluid with the remaining old fluid. During those 3 minutes shift transmission lever P->R->N->D and back while holding brakes firmly. I kept lever in each position for 20 seconds. So, you start your car, wait 20 seconds while it's still in P, then shift into R and wait for 20 seconds, then in N and wait 20 seconds, then in D for 20 seconds, 20 seconds back in N again and so on. When in P and N you can release brakes, but apply brakes before and while in R and D. Emergency brake should be engaged all the time. Set it on even before lifting the vehicle for the first time and you can release it right before going for a test drive when completely done.
8th picture in my original post shows a spout. It extends upwards inside the oil pan. At the other end of the sprout, i.e. on the external side of the oil pan, is where the fill plug is. The way you set proper ATF level in these transmissions is make sure the vehicle is leveled, start the engine, with transmission in P open the fill plug. If there is excess of fluid in the transmission it will be above the top of the sprout and will drain, but it cannot drain below the height of the sprout. Once excess has drained out and fluid started dripping it means proper fluid level has been reached. The key to realize is that instead of a dipstick that tells you fluid level these transmission have a sprout of a certain height to guarantee fluid will not drain below the required level. BUT you must have vehicle leveled, engine running, transmission in P and ATF temperature at around 104F. It is under these conditions you put the fill plug back in and tighten it to spec once fluid stopped running out and started simply dripping.
Incidentally, that's why you want to fill from 0.25qt to 0.5qt more than you drained. Because when setting the fluid level at the end of your drain/fill sequences, depending whether you do 2 or 3, or maybe just 1, you want to start with a slightly overfilled state and positively witness that excess has drained out. Otherwise, if you under fill, you'll open the fill plug to check level and nothing will be coming out. At that point you don't know if you are 1/2qt or 1qt or whatnot below the proper level.
Sorry, I know it's a long explanation, but I want to try to leave on vagueness. Also, it's interesting how Factory Service Manual lists transmission oil drain/fill procedure under Periodic Maintenance section, even though consumer is being told "filled for life".
As far as the motor oil, let me first mention is that our engines can run on a multitude of grades, and that's according to the Factory Service Manual, - the bible for the vehicle. Both 5w-30 and 5w-40 can be used in any ambient temperature, while 10w-30, for example, should not be used at temperatures below -4F.
I've tried both Mobil1 0w-40 and Castrol 0w-40, and in both instances it sounded and felt like the engine had to work a little harder. The difference is not noticeable if you drive hard. However, if you are cruising at a constant speed whether in town or on a highway and want to accelerate slightly, on 5w-30 it flies, on 0w-40 it tries, is probably best I can describe it.
I am sticking with 5w-30 these days, Pennzoil Platinum like Blnewt because it meets some of the toughest specs including ACEA A5/B5. Also like Blnewt I use oversized filter, currently M1-110. With filters I buy them in person because I check to make sure those louvers are well opened. For a period of time I used K&N HP-1010 because it has jumbo louvers and everything else I saw in stores had louvers just barely stamped through, barely open.
With filters I buy them in person because I check to make sure those louvers are well opened. For a period of time I used K&N HP-1010 because it has jumbo louvers and everything else I saw in stores had louvers just barely stamped through, barely open.
I've not checked the louvers (but will now ) but ALWAYS open the box prior to purchase to confirm the ring gasket is intact, nothing worse than getting your oil drained, go and get the oil filter out of the box and DOH! the gasket is missing (ask me how I know )
Well got to drain the transmission and replace the fluid with Valvoline Maxlife today. Would not have attempted this service had it not been for this excellent thread. However, I would like to offer up a couple of things that I thought might help.
First, like any drain and fill of the drivetrain (rear & front differentials, transfer case) make sure that you first open the fill port before you drain the transmission. My filler port must have been installed with 100 foot pounds of torque. I had to utilize PB Blaster and another penetrant allowing it to soak for about 30 minutes before I could remove the port.
Second, no matter how careful you are, it's messy. Even draining the pan left about a 1/4" of fluid in the pan that sloshed over spilling upon the removal of the pan.
Third, Valvoline Maxlife had a rancid smell. Bad.
Fourth, there is no way that this transmission should be called a "sealed system'. My dealer didn't recommend replacement of the fluid. After seeing the black fluid that was removed along with the collection on the magnets, its clear that it is something that needs regular service. With a drain plug and fill port, not sure why Infiniti would not have a maintenance recommendation like the differentials & transfer case.
Fifth, after completion of this 3 time fluid flush, I would recommend that you also reset the ECM so that the computer can re-learn the shift strategy based on the new fluid.
Again, thanks for this comprehensive, excellent DIY for this service.
Well got to drain the transmission and replace the fluid with Valvoline Maxlife today. Would not have attempted this service had it not been for this excellent thread. However, I would like to offer up a couple of things that I thought might help.
First, like any drain and fill of the drivetrain (rear & front differentials, transfer case) make sure that you first open the fill port before you drain the transmission. My filler port must have been installed with 100 foot pounds of torque. I had to utilize PB Blaster and another penetrant allowing it to soak for about 30 minutes before I could remove the port.
Second, no matter how careful you are, it's messy. Even draining the pan left about a 1/4" of fluid in the pan that sloshed over spilling upon the removal of the pan.
Third, Valvoline Maxlife had a rancid smell. Bad.
Fourth, there is no way that this transmission should be called a "sealed system'. My dealer didn't recommend replacement of the fluid. After seeing the black fluid that was removed along with the collection on the magnets, its clear that it is something that needs regular service. With a drain plug and fill port, not sure why Infiniti would not have a maintenance recommendation like the differentials & transfer case.
Fifth, after completion of this 3 time fluid flush, I would recommend that you also reset the ECM so that the computer can re-learn the shift strategy based on the new fluid.
Again, thanks for this comprehensive, excellent DIY for this service.
Awesome write up! Let us know how the car performs after the transmission fluid change, Also at what mileage did you change it at?
Hi Dan. Like Blnewt mentioned the engine should be OFF when draining and refilling transmission. I'll stress that the engine MUST be OFF. You don't want your transmission to run dry. Like when you change motor oil you don't run the engine. Once you refilled transmission with the ATF and both fill and drain plugs are closed and tightened you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to mix new fluid with the remaining old fluid. During those 3 minutes shift transmission lever P->R->N->D and back while holding brakes firmly. I kept lever in each position for 20 seconds. So, you start your car, wait 20 seconds while it's still in P, then shift into R and wait for 20 seconds, then in N and wait 20 seconds, then in D for 20 seconds, 20 seconds back in N again and so on. When in P and N you can release brakes, but apply brakes before and while in R and D. Emergency brake should be engaged all the time. Set it on even before lifting the vehicle for the first time and you can release it right before going for a test drive when completely done.
8th picture in my original post shows a spout. It extends upwards inside the oil pan. At the other end of the sprout, i.e. on the external side of the oil pan, is where the fill plug is. The way you set proper ATF level in these transmissions is make sure the vehicle is leveled, start the engine, with transmission in P open the fill plug. If there is excess of fluid in the transmission it will be above the top of the sprout and will drain, but it cannot drain below the height of the sprout. Once excess has drained out and fluid started dripping it means proper fluid level has been reached. The key to realize is that instead of a dipstick that tells you fluid level these transmission have a sprout of a certain height to guarantee fluid will not drain below the required level. BUT you must have vehicle leveled, engine running, transmission in P and ATF temperature at around 104F. It is under these conditions you put the fill plug back in and tighten it to spec once fluid stopped running out and started simply dripping.
Incidentally, that's why you want to fill from 0.25qt to 0.5qt more than you drained. Because when setting the fluid level at the end of your drain/fill sequences, depending whether you do 2 or 3, or maybe just 1, you want to start with a slightly overfilled state and positively witness that excess has drained out. Otherwise, if you under fill, you'll open the fill plug to check level and nothing will be coming out. At that point you don't know if you are 1/2qt or 1qt or whatnot below the proper level.
Sorry, I know it's a long explanation, but I want to try to leave on vagueness. Also, it's interesting how Factory Service Manual lists transmission oil drain/fill procedure under Periodic Maintenance section, even though consumer is being told "filled for life".
As far as the motor oil, let me first mention is that our engines can run on a multitude of grades, and that's according to the Factory Service Manual, - the bible for the vehicle. Both 5w-30 and 5w-40 can be used in any ambient temperature, while 10w-30, for example, should not be used at temperatures below -4F.
I've tried both Mobil1 0w-40 and Castrol 0w-40, and in both instances it sounded and felt like the engine had to work a little harder. The difference is not noticeable if you drive hard. However, if you are cruising at a constant speed whether in town or on a highway and want to accelerate slightly, on 5w-30 it flies, on 0w-40 it tries, is probably best I can describe it.
I am sticking with 5w-30 these days, Pennzoil Platinum like Blnewt because it meets some of the toughest specs including ACEA A5/B5. Also like Blnewt I use oversized filter, currently M1-110. With filters I buy them in person because I check to make sure those louvers are well opened. For a period of time I used K&N HP-1010 because it has jumbo louvers and everything else I saw in stores had louvers just barely stamped through, barely open.
Thank you so much for all this info! You really are the best! Just to make sure about 1 thing, have the engine running to set the ATF level? So open up the fill plug and let the overfilled ATF drain slowly?
07-23-2017, 08:33 PM
) but ALWAYS open the box prior to purchase to confirm the ring gasket is intact, nothing worse than getting your oil drained, go and get the oil filter out of the box and DOH! the gasket is missing (ask me how I know 
)
