Thanks bro

 

It's the most aggressive foam pad option from Lake Country. I'd only use it on severely neglected vehicles, and when you plan on using at least 2 more steps after wards with less aggressive polish and pad combos. You always want to start with the least aggressive pad and work your way up as needed so you don't remove more clear coat than is necessary.

Dave - thanks for the replies, keep us posted on how things turn out round 2.

All the best,

George

 

So what kind of pads would you recommend? As I do have a 3" and 6" backing plate.

Also, I use the more intense pad, then a lighter pad rite? ie. 3" yellow, then 6" orange?

 

I'll typically use an orange light cutting pad for the medium cut polishes, then follow up with a white polishing pad for the next step. Yellow pads are too aggressive for a medium cutting polish IMO, I wouldn't advise using it.

Smaller the pad, the more effective the PC will be. If possible use the 3" pads for both the steps.

You always want to work your way down from the more aggressive pad options to the less aggressive pads. Make sure you match up the aggressiveness of the polish with the aggressiveness of the pad, otherwise you'll end up with micro-marring in the paint.

Hope this helps.

George

 

What does "marring" mean and what does it look like? I was polishing my car yesterday and on the last panel my polish got sticky and acted like glue. is that marring? if not what is it?

Thanks
Loi

 

Micro-marring is a haze that appears on your paint when you use aggressive polish or aggressive pads. Or when you mix an aggressive polish with a light pad, or a light polish with a heavy pad (I found this out the hard way... Hehehe)

 

I see... I dont think that was the problem, but you ever had the problem of your compound turning sticky glue-like and hard to remove? if marring does appear, how do you remove it?

Thanks
Loi

 

No I haven't had that happen (yet.. Lol)... Maybe you used the same pad(s) too long and used a lot of product which then made it hard to remove?

I was told you can get rid of the micro-marring by using a less aggressive polish and a very light cutting pad. I was plannin on attempting to get rid of my marring this weekend, but seeing as how it's raining out here, I might just wait til it clears up.

 

Lots of great advice here. Recently purchased an 09 platinum graphite on graphite 37x with the scratch shield paint. After driving one week in Boston, the color is now salt on dirt.

Is there anything special that should be done or avoided with the scratch shield finish or does the same routine with the same products (wash/clay/polish/seal/wax) still apply?

Also, should I be waiting some amount of time before mucking around with the finish (other than washing)?

 

lol.. yeah I had only one orange pad that I used... Just ordered more though... spent $300 this week on wax,foam, pads and misc!

 

Gamedog did a good job describing how a common way micro-marring occurs, but mis-matching the aggressiveness of the polish or pad. Essentially what it looks like is mini swirls that are on the surface. Here's an example of what the marring looked like after I used a purple foamed wool pad with a rotary buffer (I tweaked the exposure to help amplify the marring):



You can see to the left of the line there is marring from using a very aggressive pad. The right of the line was after using a finishing polish to remove them.

Gamedog hit the nail on the head again, a combination of using too much product and using the same pad for an entire coat can lead to product caking up on your paint, making it difficult to remove. Stick to using 2 - 3 pea sized drops per 18" x 18" working area and replace your pads after every couple panels. You can never have enough pads on hand, I'll typically use 4 pads per coat of polish. If you only have one or a couple pads, take a toothbrush to the pad on a low speed setting (away from the car you are detailing) and clean out the pad after every panel or so. Using clean pads ensures you get the maximum cut which removes more imperfections and yields the most gloss and depth.

Mike,

Congrats on the new G37x pick up. There's nothing special to take into account for the newer scratch resistant clear coats, you'd want to follow the same process and technique that you mentioned. As far as wait time goes, by the time you have the car in your hands, the paint has fully cured, so there is no reason to wait on a detail. Protect it from the nasty north east weather as soon as possible and enjoy your new car.

George

 

Hey George,

I just got my P21S Concours Paste Wax and Natty's Blue Paste Wax in the mail, my question is; which would you recommend best on a black 08 Z06?

Question #2, I use CG Citrus & Gloss; how much is an ounce? would it be a pea, dime, or nickel size?

Question #3, For a lightly swirl black Z06, what pad/compound would do the job?

thanks
Loi

 

Just thought I'd add my thoughts, but would be interested in George's recommendations as well.

Q1... Pinnacle Souveran would be my choice. I've had excellent results with this wax and love the durability.

Q2... Roughly a cap full if I'm not mistaken.

Q3... I'd start with a white pad with Menzerna PO106ff.

 

Thanks Brian but I only have P21S and Natty's on hand, the bottle of CG C&G I bought doesnt have a cap... I been using only 2 pea drops but want to make sure I'm not using too much that it would strip my wax.

 

I haven't used P21S much but have definitely used Natty's. I think either would be fine.

As far as the CG C&G, I'd probably use more than 2 pea drops depending on how much water you have in your bucket. I typically use a cap full or so.