God, that last shot is beautiful. Shivers down my spine...

Just curious- why the purple? Will that be a theme extending past the engine bay?

 

Honestly, my camera is not doing that purple any justice. I will do a professional shoot when all is done and you can be the judge. Purple will be staying in the engine bay though don't worry

 

cant wait to see a video of it running

 

Oh, no diss on the purple at all! Was just wondering if there's a back story.

Can't wait to see the hi res stuff!

 

Sam, it's coming along great! It seems the shop that you're dealing with knows what they're doing. It's nice to hear/see they're able to overcome all the obstacles with fitment.

 

Thanks Staples. Yeah the shop is really competent!

On a separate note, does anyone know how many teeth our OEM Crank Position Sensor (CPS) has? My fear that it will be different from the RB30's which will cause the tach to function weirdly.

 

Sam, how did you know or determine the need for that well-made trans spacer.

That's not an adapter, but a spacer?

Thanks for showing us all of this.

Coop

 

Yup it's a custom made 26mm spacer, doesn't have any studs on it. Without it, my shifter would either be too far up front (no room on AT console and less ergonomic) or he would've had to cut through the firewall to push the engine further back to get the shifter centered.

 

Wow, that's some nice work. Who machined that bell housing spacer for you?

 

Nice layout but you're going to have problems with that turbo housing and the engine/strut area hitting during hard accelerations unless your engine mounts are real stiff. Also you should find some way to put some heat shield covering on the exhaust side of the turbo to protect the engine/strut sheet metal from burning the paint and possibly distorting from the heat. One benefit is that all the wasted heat would be used to help the turbo spin faster. You could also use some gold heat deflection tape, similar to what McLaren F1 race car uses to protect the body from the excessive engine heat. It's still hard for me to believe that you couldn't use the stock engine and build it up to accomplish similar goals, but I'm a newbie when it comes to this car and it's engine mods.

Al

P.S. Valve cover color looks great.

 

Subscribed!! Can't wait to see the result! GJ.

 

Wow! I would have never expected you to try this but looks pretty badass.. good luck with the build and I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

 

Thanks guys!

A local machine shop LOL

Yeah we have already identified that issue and we're trying to find a way around it. Will keep you guys posted.

Thanks for the tips. We are currently just test fitting. Everything will go out again, the engine bay will get properly cleaned and then the hot sides will all be wrapped. Not sure if I'll go with Gold wrap as it might look tacky and let's face it, this is not an F1 race car lol

No matter how much I built the engine I would've still been stuck with an AT. And the RB platform will always be a better platform, especially with what I have planned for her later

 

You definitely did your homework for this build. Very true on the torque part. Our fat cars definitely need more torque. Maybe I'll take some tips from your build for when I start mine! Also, time to change your sig from '08 AG G37S 5AT to '08 AG RB30 Monstaaa

 

Very true man, the RB6's stroke is too short for the V36. Let's see what the dyno numbers say later on.

Haha don't want to jump the gun yet.

You're more than welcome to ask anything about my build, it's the reason I started this thread It was (and still is) a steep learning curve for me reading for hours on many forums in the UK, Australia & NZ and I would like to share as much of that as I can.

I also very highly recommend you to talk to Ricky at Raw Brokerage. He's very knowledgeable and helpful with this type build and sell parts specifically for RB26/30 conversions.