I got mine installed on Sat, but it has been nothing but rain and long nights at work so I am not sure how they handle yet. I can tell you for sure there is zero additional NVH, but I cannot tell any difference in normal street driving. I do have a track day at Road America tomorrow so hopefully I will have some solid impressions if the weather holds up. Lots of rain predicted...

 

It's been one week since putting the original rear dampers back in the car. During that time I've been driving my G every day, putting more miles on it in the last 7 days than I have in the last 2 months.

No more squeak. It's completely gone.

I can't believe I've been living with that for almost a year. It got so bad, that I simply stopped wanting to drive my car because I knew it would make me miserable. Incredible.

 

I was reading a review on another forum today. The reviewer described a perception of quicker throttle response in certain situations. Here:

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ar-review.html

That makes sense to me, even though I'm no engineer. That moment where mechanical energy being sent through the drive train instead of being damped, it would translate to the driver as a better throttle response.

I suspect poly motor mounts would be vastly more significant, but every little thing contributes.

 

You can probably skip the rear subframe bushing inserts if you are just driving on the street. I have not pushed the car hard in corners on the street yet (to the point of braking the rear end loose), but even on twisty roads I really don't notice any difference.

Even on track at the limit it is pretty subtle. The rear end seemed a little more planted under threshold braking which was definitely nice, but I also changed to different pads and Z1 2pc. rotors at the same time and changed my braking points so it could have been due to any one of those other things.

 

Well, that sucks.

As much as I want these collars to be a thing, between you and Slartibartfast, I'm forced to give it up and stop rationalizing this mod.

So... still on my list, but relegated to a bucket of loosely scheduled, future mods.

Thanks, 4DRZ.

 

He just save you like $300

 

Rochester still going strong. Great to see the improvements, changes, and cool new features/parts. Good stuff man. Your build will always be one I swing by to check up on. Hope all is well!

 

Maybe 10 years ago, I read about using a hockey puck inside the floor jack bowl. Cut a chunk out of the middle, and you can handle the pinched metal jack points better, without bending and crushing things. Been using this thing ever since.

And then last week I read 4DRZ bought this super puck online, which is basically the same thing, only better.



I just realized the puck is stamped "Made in Czechoslovakia" LOL. I don't know why that is funny, but it is.

 

Seeing as Czechoslovakia stopped being a thing 25+ years ago, I’d say it’s kinda remarkable

 

Nice to see the upgrade. I can say that it works really well, even on the pinch welds that are not intended to be used since I needed access to my pinch welds for bending, sanding, and painting. I imagine this jack pad adapter will work awesome on the jack points. Have you tried it yet?

 

No, not yet. This weekend I'm cleaning the interior with Leatherique, and my oldest is graduating HS today... but I'm curious about this thing, so I'll probably check it out with the jack tomorrow.

Oh. And the old puck is actually stamped Czech Republic.

 

I played with this rubber jack accessory today.

The gap is nice and wide, however if you miss your mark, it will simply rip the edges to ****. If you miss your mark with my POS hockey puck, it will eventually clip into place, because the rubber compound is much stronger. Basically, the rubber on the superpuck is too soft.

Why does this matter? Because I'm on my hands and knees with my ear to the cement trying to line this damn thing up, that's why. Anything that makes that process even more difficult than it is... is a fail.

The added height is nice, but still not enough to keep the car on the puck, instead it rests on the outer diameter of my jack bowl. Every jack is different, however in my case I have to put spacer material underneath the hockey puck, and I still have to do the same with this thing. Zero sum gain.

The gap is deep. However, the pinched jack points will dive into that groove and just keep going until I'm resting on the diameter of the bowl, again. I need a 3/4" spacer to make this work.

So while it seems almost obvious this adapter is a better engineered solution than a hockey puck, it's actually a worse solution. I won't be using it. Probably just throw it away, or toss it into the pile of scrap in the basement.

My advice: don't bother. Go to the sporting goods store, buy a couple of pucks. Stick it in the vise, grab a hacksaw and a large flat-edge screwdriver and hack at it. It won't look the part, but will actually do the job better.

 

Well that seems strange. The puck worked well for me, but maybe you missed my note about lining it up on the seam welds with one hand 1st with the jack underneath rather than trying to crank the jack up and line it up at the same time. Maybe try that as I could not get it to line up well at all by leaving it on the end of the jack and cranking them up together. Instead, I would line up the puck and hold it with one hand and then crank the jack up to it with the other hand.

Let me know if that works for you. Otherwise I might buy that off of you as I think these might definitely help save the pinch welds when I put the car on the lift too.

 

Stopped by the upholsterer that fitted my console lid armrest, and had him take a look at the driver's seat. He said he could replace the two center panels for $600. Or he could repair them for $220.

IDK, I was originally thinking like something south of $120. Derp.

Oh hey, and I noticed my odometer hit 39,000 today. She's getting old.

 

Every time I drive by a chunk of tire tread on the side of the road, I want to pick it up and make something like that superpuck. But I never do 🙄. My current solution is an old basketball that I cut into about 8 circles and stack them on the jack bowl. Works good enough for my other cars, only lift the G like twice a year.
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