Haha, I was about to say those wheels look dirty!!

They also look great, I'm starting to think I did the wrong thing going with the PF01's, but they were much cheaper.

I have a few surprises to install thanks to Father Christmas, I'll post some pics in the next few weeks

 

Gotta admit, the NT03+M look good.

 

Looks seriously good!

What size tyres are you running?

 

265/40r18 Federal 595 RS-RR on 18x9.5+27

A bit of a weird tire size, but chosen because I wanted the tires to run skinny if I needed to in order to avoid rubbing. Now that I know these don't rub even under full compression, I'll be able to get the 275/40 I wanted under there without problems.

 

I know what you mean. I was just hoping to eliminate one more variable. I run Hawk DTC-60's on track which are very grippy. In my head I modulate the brakes well and so far I have not had this issue on track.

I think I know what you are talking about. It sounded familiar once you mentioned bumpy braking zones. I had a very firm set of coilovers on a Subaru and when I would hit some bumps in town it would lose traction and braking power.

 

Well, I got 40 hours in to the car this weekend and got a bunch of stuff done before the next autocross on Sunday
- Brake Cooling ducts
- brake pad swap (back to OEM for autocross and commuting)
- Z1 finned diff cover
- Z1 urethane diff mounts
- KW V3 suspension
- SPL rear camber arms
- SPC rear toe bolts
- wheel alignment and ride height set

I had to do a few things twice, as is typical, along with the obligatory trips to the parts shop to get those fiddly things you find out you don't have until after you've started (Lithium grease, blue toctite, hammer tool to get the diff breather tube in, dremel bits, etc) but she's going well now. I have the front about 1/4" higher than the rear, so I will let it settle as I drive this week and then on Saturday do another alignment to get it all spick and span before heading to Autocross.

I have Enkei PF01 in 18x9.5 waiting on some 285 RE-71R's all around, but they're not on the car yet, it will probably be a few months until I wear through the current tires before I swap out to the wider wheels. I will have the data logger running on the weekend tho to see how much (if any) lateral G-Force's go up with the new suspension.

I found those ABS sensors on the Diff 4DR - I can't believe you melted those off! The diff must have been red hot to get to that point.

 

Did you use the Stillen brake cooling ducts or custom fab something?

 

I tried to fab something but it got way too hard, way too fast so I ended up going with the Stillen kit. I had to route differently tho as my oil cooler lines were going where they said to route the hose. However, it all fits quite well and I'm happy enough with it.

The thing I noticed is that anything larger than 2" hose and you are going to have a REALLY hard time making it fit in anything other than a full track car, there just isn't enough room. I had tried 3" hose but that's just stockpile now.

 

What camber kit did you use in the front?

 

I already had the SPL camber arms in the front

Here are some pics of the brake duct routing too BTW for anyone interested. It looks tight around the wheels but it's about a 1/2" and clears just fine, especially once it's on the ground and you get that extra clearance as the wheel moves away from the roll bar mounting point in its natural ark.

 

Splitter- nice work on the brake ducting. Is that really only 2" tubing?? and if so where did you get the tubing? So I am guessing that is the 370Z kit for 2009-2015 that I see on Stillen's site. If so, did you really only use the mounting plates that bolt up to the hub to direct the air since you went with smaller tubing? Hopefully, these would mount up to my sedan and then I could see about custom routing options.

In WI my brake ducts always got torn to shreds in the winter, but I have a metal skid plate that should protect them on this car. I will probably run into the same issue as you with the oil cooler lines. I did not even think about brake ducts when I was installing the oil cooler. Whoops!

 

I just bought this kit, with OEM fascia mount. Had to drill the second hole for mounting bolt tho on the front.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...it-p-5883.html

Maybe it's 2.5" hose, but I originally tried to fit 3" hose and that didn't work at all.

 

So you are using the hose that came with the kit now, but tried to go bigger when you got the kit? Does the hose have wire in it so I mount it directly to the bumper instead of getting their brackets for the bumper that are not going to fit my car anyway?

 

I am back no my PC now and will explain myself properly.

I initially just bought cooling duct hose, napa ducts and some steel exhaust tube and I was going to fabricate my own cooling system. I planned to follow what this guy did, but with proper tubing:

DIY Brake Ducts for less then 20 bucks - LS1TECH

It all got too hard when I couldn't find a decent spot to mount the exhaust tubing section to any strong enough easy to reach location in the hub. I looked in to custom backing plates but decided I don't have the fabrication skills even tho other people on this forum have done it and I got a copy of the template:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...ling-duct.html

So I decided that I would just go for the Stillen kit as I was tired of not having anything and work has picked up so I was out of time (lots of excuses, I know....)

Probably the cheapest option would be to buy some of these

ALUMINUM FLANGES FOR DUCTING from Aircraft Spruce

and just pop rivet them to the factory brake ducts. In fact that was at one point my plan, but I lost that link and only just found it now looking for the invoice for the brake ducting I originally bought (which I can't find...)

In hindsight, 4 of those duct flanges, some brake ducting, 4 sleeved pipe clamps and you'd have the full kit. Pop rivet the flange to the brake dust shield, use a couple screws and washers to the grill and bobs your uncle.

I do recall seeing people do this, but I also recall a lot of conversation about making sure the ducting is point INSIDE the rotor and that at no time should the cool air be blowing on the brake surface of the rotor. with 2.5" tubing and those aircraft flanges, to clear the ABS sensor you would be blowing on the rotor, so you need some way of pointing the hose in to the rotor, necking it down from 2.5" in the process to ensure you don't destroy your rotor. It was all getting hard and I remember starting, realising the tight area to work with around the ABS sensor and giving up.

It was when I met a friend with the Stillen kit installed on his G, I got a good look and it and I just decided to go the easy route and get the stillen kit.

The stillen hose is smaller in diameter than the hose I originally bought, that's what I meant above (Stillen is 2", what I had originally was 2.5"). The Stillen hose is the perfect diameter to fit without too much cutting and without any crazy bulges to the plastic trim, engine under shield, etc. You could make any size you want work, but what comes with the Stillen kit is really nice. 2.5" would have a much bigger bend radius and there are 3 90+ degree bends that this would be impacted and would just make this all the more difficult, you can see from my photos above how tight it already is, I have also attached some photos to this post of the 2" stillen hose vs 2.5" hose for comparison, it's a significant different.

 

Thanks for all the info. and you must be psychic since I do actually have an uncle Bob. Haha!

Does the tubing have any wire in it for support? Instead of picking up brackets to mount the opening of the tubes to the grill in the front bumper, I was just going to poke some holes in the tubing and mount them on 2 or 3 spots with zip ties.

I might pick up the Stillen kit with just the tubing and brackets for the hubs so that the air is directed properly. (I have tried making hub brackets as well without much success on other cars.) I imagine you had to remove the dust shields on the brakes to get everything to mount up properly?