The G37S is a great track car
04-14-2017, 01:21 AM
#256
Registered User
BTW, I am wondering if anyone else is taking their 7AT to HPDE. I'm getting concerned that my A/T fluid is getting too hot. Does hard driving affect transmission temperature?
04-14-2017, 11:12 AM
#259
Registered User
Hmm I think more frequent trans fluid drain and fills will have to be the method until warranty expires.
Speaking of the powertrain warranty, if a trans cooler could void the warranty, wouldnt an oil cooler do the same?
Might just have to baby the car and just do fluid and oil changes after each event until warranty expires haha.
Speaking of the powertrain warranty, if a trans cooler could void the warranty, wouldnt an oil cooler do the same?
Might just have to baby the car and just do fluid and oil changes after each event until warranty expires haha.
04-14-2017, 11:59 AM
#260
In theory but it's really up to dealer discrepancy. I don't trust dealerships to be honest and every experience I've ever had has been a negative one.
Had a dealership (not Infiniti) try to tell me I needed a new transmission at 40-50 k miles but they wouldn't be replacing it under warranty because my CAI was the reason...Car had gone into limp mode and as a college kid, with no where near that amount of money to fix, I was freaking out because I wasn't all that educated on what I was dealing with and what I could dispute. Had the car towed to a local transmission place for a 2nd opinion. They added 2 qts. of trans fluid and that was that. Car ran fine until I got rid of it at 125k miles.
*fluid was low because I did the flush myself. Fault was my own but the dealership attempting to rob a poor college kid went un-forgiven.
Had a dealership (not Infiniti) try to tell me I needed a new transmission at 40-50 k miles but they wouldn't be replacing it under warranty because my CAI was the reason...Car had gone into limp mode and as a college kid, with no where near that amount of money to fix, I was freaking out because I wasn't all that educated on what I was dealing with and what I could dispute. Had the car towed to a local transmission place for a 2nd opinion. They added 2 qts. of trans fluid and that was that. Car ran fine until I got rid of it at 125k miles.
*fluid was low because I did the flush myself. Fault was my own but the dealership attempting to rob a poor college kid went un-forgiven.
04-14-2017, 01:13 PM
#261
I've had my car serviced at the dealership with the tires, suspension, brakes, oil cooler and power steering cooler installed. I even provided the Redline fluid and K&N filter for them. I didn't take my COTA and various autocross scrutineering stickers off the window too. No comment on warranty, the guys were impressed with what I had done and wanted to know all about it, plus my old Datsun. Obviously each dealership is different, but regardless of where you go, for them to deny a warranty claim they need to prove that what you have installed was the root cause.
Ultimately it would be a great pain in the backside, but good luck to the dealer trying to defend a CAI causing transmission damage in court.
From my perspective: The only thing at risk for warranty is drivetrain and engine. A new manual gearbox is about $1200 plus fitting. Engine's are not ridiculously expensive either, certainly you'd have change from 10k for a brand new from the dealer, half that for second hand or very low mileage one. So, worst case scenario on track you could be out that much due to mechanical failure, but then you're risking the full value of the car to start with if you bin it badly enough. And back to warranty, for mechanical failure they would still have to prove that any track work or modifications were the cause of it. Friend of mine in a corvette just got a new crate motor under warranty, he tracks and autocrosses and no doubt the dealership knows, covered under warranty no problem.
Any other parts to be covered by warranty (interior, doors, windows, seats, stereo, what have you) are unaffected by engine/trans mods and racing so you should be fine there.
If you're super concerned, do the same, but I asked the dealer principal and he said so long as I kept receipts that I could do my own oil changes and the warranty would still hold. So, you could avoid the dealership until something went wrong, swap any offending parts out before taking it to them, and then they wouldn't know what you've been up to.
But really, if you're going full track time (not just autocross) then you should assume all liability and be prepared for the worst. A good mentality to have, in my opinion, that's been drilled in to me since I started: If you can't afford to walk out to your garage and set your car on fire, you can't afford to go racing.
Ultimately it would be a great pain in the backside, but good luck to the dealer trying to defend a CAI causing transmission damage in court.
From my perspective: The only thing at risk for warranty is drivetrain and engine. A new manual gearbox is about $1200 plus fitting. Engine's are not ridiculously expensive either, certainly you'd have change from 10k for a brand new from the dealer, half that for second hand or very low mileage one. So, worst case scenario on track you could be out that much due to mechanical failure, but then you're risking the full value of the car to start with if you bin it badly enough. And back to warranty, for mechanical failure they would still have to prove that any track work or modifications were the cause of it. Friend of mine in a corvette just got a new crate motor under warranty, he tracks and autocrosses and no doubt the dealership knows, covered under warranty no problem.
Any other parts to be covered by warranty (interior, doors, windows, seats, stereo, what have you) are unaffected by engine/trans mods and racing so you should be fine there.
If you're super concerned, do the same, but I asked the dealer principal and he said so long as I kept receipts that I could do my own oil changes and the warranty would still hold. So, you could avoid the dealership until something went wrong, swap any offending parts out before taking it to them, and then they wouldn't know what you've been up to.
But really, if you're going full track time (not just autocross) then you should assume all liability and be prepared for the worst. A good mentality to have, in my opinion, that's been drilled in to me since I started: If you can't afford to walk out to your garage and set your car on fire, you can't afford to go racing.
04-14-2017, 01:51 PM
#263
I've had my car serviced at the dealership with the tires, suspension, brakes, oil cooler and power steering cooler installed. I even provided the Redline fluid and K&N filter for them. I didn't take my COTA and various autocross scrutineering stickers off the window too. No comment on warranty, the guys were impressed with what I had done and wanted to know all about it, plus my old Datsun. Obviously each dealership is different, but regardless of where you go, for them to deny a warranty claim they need to prove that what you have installed was the root cause.
Ultimately it would be a great pain in the backside, but good luck to the dealer trying to defend a CAI causing transmission damage in court.
From my perspective: The only thing at risk for warranty is drivetrain and engine. A new manual gearbox is about $1200 plus fitting. Engine's are not ridiculously expensive either, certainly you'd have change from 10k for a brand new from the dealer, half that for second hand or very low mileage one. So, worst case scenario on track you could be out that much due to mechanical failure, but then you're risking the full value of the car to start with if you bin it badly enough. And back to warranty, for mechanical failure they would still have to prove that any track work or modifications were the cause of it. Friend of mine in a corvette just got a new crate motor under warranty, he tracks and autocrosses and no doubt the dealership knows, covered under warranty no problem.
Any other parts to be covered by warranty (interior, doors, windows, seats, stereo, what have you) are unaffected by engine/trans mods and racing so you should be fine there.
If you're super concerned, do the same, but I asked the dealer principal and he said so long as I kept receipts that I could do my own oil changes and the warranty would still hold. So, you could avoid the dealership until something went wrong, swap any offending parts out before taking it to them, and then they wouldn't know what you've been up to.
But really, if you're going full track time (not just autocross) then you should assume all liability and be prepared for the worst. A good mentality to have, in my opinion, that's been drilled in to me since I started: If you can't afford to walk out to your garage and set your car on fire, you can't afford to go racing.
Ultimately it would be a great pain in the backside, but good luck to the dealer trying to defend a CAI causing transmission damage in court.
From my perspective: The only thing at risk for warranty is drivetrain and engine. A new manual gearbox is about $1200 plus fitting. Engine's are not ridiculously expensive either, certainly you'd have change from 10k for a brand new from the dealer, half that for second hand or very low mileage one. So, worst case scenario on track you could be out that much due to mechanical failure, but then you're risking the full value of the car to start with if you bin it badly enough. And back to warranty, for mechanical failure they would still have to prove that any track work or modifications were the cause of it. Friend of mine in a corvette just got a new crate motor under warranty, he tracks and autocrosses and no doubt the dealership knows, covered under warranty no problem.
Any other parts to be covered by warranty (interior, doors, windows, seats, stereo, what have you) are unaffected by engine/trans mods and racing so you should be fine there.
If you're super concerned, do the same, but I asked the dealer principal and he said so long as I kept receipts that I could do my own oil changes and the warranty would still hold. So, you could avoid the dealership until something went wrong, swap any offending parts out before taking it to them, and then they wouldn't know what you've been up to.
But really, if you're going full track time (not just autocross) then you should assume all liability and be prepared for the worst. A good mentality to have, in my opinion, that's been drilled in to me since I started: If you can't afford to walk out to your garage and set your car on fire, you can't afford to go racing.
Couldn't agree more, gotta pay to play. That's why I'm getting a dedicated track / "fun" car. The G will see the track but not for awhile - got way too many things on my plate to afford tracking a G37. Besides, gotta at least wait for the new car smell to wear off.
I'm familiar with the M&M act. This all happened about 7 years ago (Jeeeez that hurts to type out). Knowing what I know now, I would've raised Holy Hell rather than allow my heart to drop into my stomache when they gave me the news. I was 18-19 and new to modding and all that it entailed. Ididn't know any better really. Once I realized they tried to screw me, I have never stepped into a Brand name dealership, of any make, to purchase a car; even when my fiance got her new CX-5 at Mazda. I stood right outside in case I was needed and looked around while she worked the deal. She can handle herself so no worries there but I just hate the atmosphere of them. I start turning green and sh*t
04-14-2017, 03:58 PM
#264
The tires have been good for me in the rain. It is the perfect tire for me for mostly daily driving and the occasional track day. I drive fast and smooth so even on one really technical track we have close by, I tend to get a little more life out of my tires. If you were doing a lot of track days you might want to get a dedicated slick for the track and then use these for the street or track days when it rains.
04-17-2017, 08:24 PM
#265
Registered Member
Haha there isn't much context but the BMW driver spent most of the day trying to go sideways rather than try to set a good time.
BTW, I am wondering if anyone else is taking their 7AT to HPDE. I'm getting concerned that my A/T fluid is getting too hot. Does hard driving affect transmission temperature?
BTW, I am wondering if anyone else is taking their 7AT to HPDE. I'm getting concerned that my A/T fluid is getting too hot. Does hard driving affect transmission temperature?
The short answer is yes - it gets hot, and will be hot enough to affect longevity. I need to get myself a trans cooler, power steering cooler, oil cooler, and new diff fluid, as a preventative thing.
I've yet to run into the typical issues that AT 370Z guys face (and I know quite a few), but that's the short list of parts you would want to consider if you're not strictly running trackdays in low ambient temperatures.
That being said, I have the money set aside for a new transmission if I need it. Hopefully it won't come to that, but like others have said, be prepared to pay to play. Most cars (ours included) are not designed to take these types of stresses for more than a few moments at a time. So stuff breaks. That's just how it is. But don't let that put you off from doing it - just make the necessary preparations and you'll be fine.
Also, I'm having trouble getting these tires to roll over better lol.
04-17-2017, 09:30 PM
#266
Registered User
^what kind of issues? Id be curious to know.
Theres no doubt you have to pay to play. I just have to decide how much I'm willing to pay to play, especially if its just an occasional autocross. If I have to invest in an oil cooler and trans cooler to play, beyond the consumables like tires brakes etc , that might be too much to pay and i may want to wait until the warranty on this runs out or I get a second car. Oil cooler and trans cooler is 800 for parts alone, with labor probably 1500 (I think both are outside my capability especially without a diy)? How much did it cost you to get "hpde ready"?
Cheers and good info. Looks like you had a blast at buttonwillow
Theres no doubt you have to pay to play. I just have to decide how much I'm willing to pay to play, especially if its just an occasional autocross. If I have to invest in an oil cooler and trans cooler to play, beyond the consumables like tires brakes etc , that might be too much to pay and i may want to wait until the warranty on this runs out or I get a second car. Oil cooler and trans cooler is 800 for parts alone, with labor probably 1500 (I think both are outside my capability especially without a diy)? How much did it cost you to get "hpde ready"?
Cheers and good info. Looks like you had a blast at buttonwillow
04-18-2017, 01:55 AM
#267
Registered Member
I actually haven't had the oil cooler nor trans cooler installed yet - because I choose to track during the colder seasons which tends to mitigate some of these issues, or rather, prolong them. (It was a high of 42*F last time I went to Thunderhill... and 45*F when I went to Laguna Seca)
Oil cooler is a simple enough DIY, a few hours worth of work with simple tools if you want it done correctly. Trans cooler, not sure. When/if I get an oil cooler, I'll document the process for you.
In all honesty, these cars are not cheap to track. If I had bothered to do my research and wanted to track more, I'd have a different car. It can be done, as I'm proving, but it's not a simple process as there's very little support outside of what 370Z parts you can retrofit.
The issues I've heard of (yet to encounter any myself...) are limp mode on the trans (it overheats, with a reduced RPM limit until it's sufficiently cool), oil overheating and not properly lubricating the engine (the VVEL produces a lot of heat in the upper rev ranges and the VQs are known to run hot anyway), and the viscous liquid in the diff breaking down, effectively making it an open diff (you can't really stop this one, as it's a sealed unit).
The car will protect itself. But if repeated and with enough stress, anything can break. We don't have the fueling issues the 370Zs have (where, in right hand turns, the engine starves of fuel) but your mileage may vary.
As for what I consider "HPDE" ready? If you're a beginner, no more than brake pads and brake fluid. I learned on a stock car on street tires, and only when I had progressed (as determined by a friend who instructs a Sonoma Raceway), then I moved on to improving longevity and handling, keeping in mind that my car was the sport model with the larger Akebono brakes.
The short list of parts I have on:
Stoptech 309 pads
RBF600 brake fluid
2pc brake rotors (front only)
Brake master cylinder brace
Adjustable coilovers
18in wheels (wider, but down from the 19's stock)
200tw "track" tires
That's been enough for me for several sessions now. Next steps are oil cooler, trans cooler, adjustable swaybars, and to swap out the viscous diff for a clutch or helical type. Or, buy another car. I'm not sure which direction I'm headed yet.
Oil cooler is a simple enough DIY, a few hours worth of work with simple tools if you want it done correctly. Trans cooler, not sure. When/if I get an oil cooler, I'll document the process for you.
In all honesty, these cars are not cheap to track. If I had bothered to do my research and wanted to track more, I'd have a different car. It can be done, as I'm proving, but it's not a simple process as there's very little support outside of what 370Z parts you can retrofit.
The issues I've heard of (yet to encounter any myself...) are limp mode on the trans (it overheats, with a reduced RPM limit until it's sufficiently cool), oil overheating and not properly lubricating the engine (the VVEL produces a lot of heat in the upper rev ranges and the VQs are known to run hot anyway), and the viscous liquid in the diff breaking down, effectively making it an open diff (you can't really stop this one, as it's a sealed unit).
The car will protect itself. But if repeated and with enough stress, anything can break. We don't have the fueling issues the 370Zs have (where, in right hand turns, the engine starves of fuel) but your mileage may vary.
As for what I consider "HPDE" ready? If you're a beginner, no more than brake pads and brake fluid. I learned on a stock car on street tires, and only when I had progressed (as determined by a friend who instructs a Sonoma Raceway), then I moved on to improving longevity and handling, keeping in mind that my car was the sport model with the larger Akebono brakes.
The short list of parts I have on:
Stoptech 309 pads
RBF600 brake fluid
2pc brake rotors (front only)
Brake master cylinder brace
Adjustable coilovers
18in wheels (wider, but down from the 19's stock)
200tw "track" tires
That's been enough for me for several sessions now. Next steps are oil cooler, trans cooler, adjustable swaybars, and to swap out the viscous diff for a clutch or helical type. Or, buy another car. I'm not sure which direction I'm headed yet.
Last edited by bPChaos; 04-18-2017 at 02:04 AM.
04-18-2017, 02:20 AM
#268
Registered User
^Good tips! Those typical issues you listed are known to the engine and diff though. I thought the rev limiting limp mode was actually a symptom of overheating engine oil and not related to the transmission.
Have you heard of the 7AT failing from overheating? I am sure it makes sense in theory but I haven't heard of a single case of it happening.
4DRZ has a brief DIY on the oil cooler in his build thread - it looked like a PITA on the sedan with thick aftermarket sway bars (checkbox ticked on both for me), the fittings had to be oriented differently and there were extra holes that needed to be drilled. Let me know how yours goes.
I was actually at sonoma raceway a week back for my first autox! in 65F ambient temps my engine oil was reaching 282F after a 15 min sessions
So while I would agree that in most cases fluid and pads are all that are needed for a beginner, I think for the VQ cars in particular, an oil cooler/extended breaks between runs/doing cold HPDE events are needed.
BTW how is the brake cylinder master brace? A good value per $ braking mod? I had never heard of it until now.
Have you heard of the 7AT failing from overheating? I am sure it makes sense in theory but I haven't heard of a single case of it happening.
4DRZ has a brief DIY on the oil cooler in his build thread - it looked like a PITA on the sedan with thick aftermarket sway bars (checkbox ticked on both for me), the fittings had to be oriented differently and there were extra holes that needed to be drilled. Let me know how yours goes.
I was actually at sonoma raceway a week back for my first autox! in 65F ambient temps my engine oil was reaching 282F after a 15 min sessions
So while I would agree that in most cases fluid and pads are all that are needed for a beginner, I think for the VQ cars in particular, an oil cooler/extended breaks between runs/doing cold HPDE events are needed.BTW how is the brake cylinder master brace? A good value per $ braking mod? I had never heard of it until now.
04-18-2017, 11:14 AM
#269
4DRZ has a brief DIY on the oil cooler in his build thread - it looked like a PITA on the sedan with thick aftermarket sway bars (checkbox ticked on both for me), the fittings had to be oriented differently and there were extra holes that needed to be drilled. Let me know how yours goes.
BTW how is the brake cylinder master brace? A good value per $ braking mod? I had never heard of it until now.
BTW how is the brake cylinder master brace? A good value per $ braking mod? I had never heard of it until now.
The issue I ran into was heat in the rear diff. Enough to melt the ABS sensors mounted to it and disable my ABS!?! The fluid was black when I swapped it out. I got Z1's rear diff cover with more capacity, bigger cooling fins, and upgraded the fluid. I also plan to wrap the exhaust near the rear diff for track days to try to get rid of another heat source. I really hope this is enough to save those poorly engineered abs sensors.
The oil cooler and rear diff cover/fluid are both fairly inexpensive and important mods if you are considering track days.
I have a master cylinder brace waiting to go on. I have put this part on a number of cars in the past and combined with stainless steel braided brake lines they make your brake pedal feel a lot more solid, especially on track. I will post up a review as soon as I get time to install it on the G.
04-18-2017, 12:21 PM
#270
I seem to recall that the oil cooler and power steering fluid cooler violate the Pauli Exclusion principle. Power steering fluid spitting out the top of the reservoir is a known issue on tracked cars without a heat exchanger. Can't remember if I saw that here or on My370Z forums.
Front brake cooling ducts were never considered by Nissan and are a bear to install.
Front brake cooling ducts were never considered by Nissan and are a bear to install.