When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I thought I would try here too to find this tool. So I ordered front and rear diff bushings from Z1 and we took the rear diff out to install the bushings only to realize we need a special tool to get the bushing out of the rear subframe. Does anyone have this tool that I could pay to ship to me and then ship back to you? Or is there some other way to get this bushing out? I really wish Z1 would have told me I needed a special tool for this part.
There's a youtube video of someone changing rear diff bushings on a 370Z that I used when I installed mine. Basically, it's a large, liquid-filled donut with a metal sleeve that gets pressed in with the subframe out. What I did was drill several holes in the donut part. By 'several' I mean I essentially cut out the inner part with a drill. It's extremely messy, so lay a tarp down if you're doing it in your garage. Then pry out the center section, and then you're left with the metal sleeve. Next, you take a sawzall to the sleeve and cut out a section of it, and then pry it out with a screwdriver. It's pretty soft, so all you really need to do is compromise the outer part of it, and it will collapse inward.
Yup, the tool is for the 350z and doesn't work for the 370.
Your only option is to cut it out. It's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, just be careful not to cut too much of the subframe. The bushing is surprisingly thin.
Hey guys, been reading this thread periodically. I'm thinking about taking my sedan to autoX for the first time in April and had a couple of questions for you experts :P
1. What ECU "metrics" are important to monitor for the G37? With the Torque app and the Infiniti plugin, there is a lot of info I have access to, but what should I monitor when I'm at the track?
2. For said metrics, what are the safe operating ranges? 260 for oil and 200 for coolant is what I've heard...
Oil and water are really the big ones. There isn't really a lot else that you can get that I'm aware of; oil pressure would be great tho!!
Water with antifreeze boils at about 240, boiling point of pure water at sea level is 212, but it really shouldn't be running that hot, so that gives you a range. Lower the better really, I like head gaskets to stay in one piece so 220 and I'd be off track (I'm at sea level).
Oil breaks down at high temperature, so similar temps to water would be ideal. I think fuel cut comes in at about 240-260 on the oil. Again, the lower the better and 210ish should be safe.
After a run, check your power steering fluid, it tends to overflow and will likely boil without a cooler. I also get coolant overflow, although not a lot and temps stay fairly good, but worth checking coolant levels to get a feel for how much you're losing, same as PS oil.
Big oil cooler and PS oil cooler and you should be OK. You don't want to be distracted with too many things to watch while on track, so I'd suggest a very simple monitoring page and just log any other parameters you think are interesting and you can review the logs after your run to get a feel for them.
Since it is my first autox day, I probably will not push it too hard and will use it to measure a "baseline" and purchase aftermarket stuff as needed.
In line with that, I am going in without any aftermarket coolers and will keep a close eye on my temps after each session. Hopefully with an ambient temp of 65-75 this time of year, I can make it through a full morning without having to sit on the sidelines.
The only precautionary measure I am taking is flushing out the brake fluid (which is probably the OEM DOT 3 fluid) with RBF600. I am installing some technafit lines while I'm at it (CZP had a great price at $94, free shipping).
I don't believe our cars measure oil temperature, at least not through the OBD port or through Torque (I've tried running baselines to determine whether or not I need an oil cooler - but I can't seem to measure that particular metric).
I would change out the brake pads too, if you can. Not sure how crazy AutoX is on your brake pads but I can't imagine it would be good for them. Where in Norcal are you? Maybe should try some of the fun tracks up there :P.
Nah, you'll be fine stock. If you're concerned, then just leave the car idling between runs to keep fluids moving through the system, you should have no problem then.
Stainless brake lines and decent fluid is always a good idea tho, good effort.
Torque can read oil temp "VVT Oil Temp" if you have the infiniti plugin (another $5).
Hey bPChaos, the Infiniti plugin (costs an extra $4.99 on top of the $4.99 Torque app) says that it will measure "VVT Oil Temperature". I will test if it works or not and report back, but the design seems to indicate that it does.
I will keep the OEM pads on and just let them wear out. It will be part of the "baseline". I expect there to be some brake fade but I'm sure that will be captured in the lap times...for some reason I just like the idea of quantitatively measuring the impact of each modification I make to the car.
I am in the San Francisco area, the AutoX is being organized by SpeedSF and is being held at the Sonoma Raceway. Popular tracks up here seem to be Laguna Seca (of course) and the lesser known but more affordable Thunderhill Raceway.
Yup, confirmed that it reads VVT Oil temp. See screenshot below. You DO need to purchase the Infiniti plugin as the default "Oil temp" metric does not work with the Infiniti ECU.
Unfortunately no indication of an oil pressure reading.
If anyone is curious, the readings below were after a cold start, 10 min city drive (ambient temp 56F), and idling still for a few min.
Oil temps seem to consistently rise as the engine is used. Coolant and intake temps will rise when idling and fall when moving, which makes sense. Accelerometer is off because you need to calibrate it to the phone's current position - this also means that if I want an accurate accelerometer reading at the event, I will need to strap down my phone somewhere :P
SpeedSF is a very good group - I've run with them twice, once at Laguna Seca and once at Thunderhill. You should definitely try both, and Sonoma Raceway is definitely on the short list of tracks to drive, if a bit more expensive. I have a buddy that works at Simraceway at Sonoma too.
You really should not need to worry too much about oil or coolant temps at an autocross since you usually just take one run at a time and they usually only last about a minute. But good idea about the RBF600 fluid and stainless lines. I also agree about the brake pads. Tires are also super important in something as short as an autocross.
If you were doing a full on track day where you are running the car hard for 20-25 min straight- then you would at least need an oil cooler. (and probably a rear diff. cover as I learned the hard way)
