I can relate with all of the salt they use on the roads here in WI during the winter. I spray off the underside of my car very often during the winter. Just before winter I reapply rust proofing in key rust prone areas and I have even sanded down and repainted the jack points on the seam welds. Most cars now have rust proofing from the factory and use decent galvanized steel so we should be fairly safe if we can keep rust from starting anywhere.

 

What are the key rust spots on the v36 chassis/body?

I will be rust proofing mine soon, most likely not going to drive it this winter either

 

I just look for any spots that are starting to get a bit of surface rust. Keep an eye on those jack points too. A regular lift will scrape all the paint off and it does not take long for rust to start.

 

I bought my 2009 g37x with 113k about 2 years ago. It now has 157k. I had the same coolant line issue as other people, I fixed it on the side of the road pretty easily, but still had to tow it cause I didnt know how to bleed the system. I also had my passenger rear caliper cease. Other than that I've only done basic maintenance, oil changes, tires, brakes, rotors, and a timing belt. I also installed an invidia q300 catback after I destroyed my y pipe going a little too fast over a speed bump, along with some front end parts being replaced due to an accident. All said and done, I'm pretty confident the car will kill me long before I can kill it...

 

My car now has 112,000 miles 2009 G37 Sedan Journey
I would say for the most part, it has very very reliable for the ride until now.
Two major repairs that were performed for my car.
1st one was code P0420/P0430 for catalytic converter replacement just before emission warranty ran out at 78K.(covered up to 80k) - engine light on
2nd one was code P0340 for camshaft B1 CAM sensor that happened at 112,000 mark. 23731-EY00B camshaft position sensor replaced. My car would not accelerate past 30 mph and would get jerking and shuddering feel when trying to accelerate. I first thought it was a transmission problem. This happened during rush hour traffic off Atlanta I-85 /Buford connector. A long story short, my car got impounded after over night leaving the car on the road and had to pay towing to a local Infiniti dealership. You can't think of worst place to get stranded.
There were no engine light on, but they found DTC P0340 B 1 Cam sensor and no codes for transmission.

Like all cars as car age with higher mileage things will break and repair will be needed.

 

Nice car! How did the plugs look? Did notice improvements in power or mileage after changing? Thanks!

 

Just hit 160k on my 09. So far here's all I had to do
Clutch slave cylinder
Timing cover oil gaskets
Clutch
Plastic coolant connector
Starter
One wheel bearing
Still need to change one O2 sensor

The first two are the biggies but theyre known problems and I have it done and outI of the way. I drive for work and this car is so much fun and despite the fuel consumption, I'm thoroughly happy with my G.

 

Oof, when did the gasket go bad?

 

I have a 2012 with 137k and so far have had to do nothing but routine maint. Tires, brakes, belts and coolant changes. The one thing I also did was trans fluid. If you have a 7at, contrary to what Infiniti says you need to change it!!! I am about ready to change all of my hoses as a preventative measure.

 

Well mine has 200,410 miles approx. I had an oil change and they told me my inner tie rod boot are torn and my outer tie rods need to be replaced.They want to replace my whole rack they say it has a leak, but my reservoir is pretty full. They wanted 1k to do it, but I will probably get someone who is a bit more affordable. I might just try some blue devil stop leak first. I have also gotten my coolant connector replaced. I plan on getting the transmission service, since it has been around 30k for my last one. I plan on also doing the spark plugs and pcv valves. Might do the coils as well. My rear tires are going to need replacing soon, probably my fronts too. I bought coilovers, haven't had them installed yet. The original suspension is pretty good, but I got some Tein Flex Z for 670. I plan on doing all the suspension at the same time. I had the poly bushings, sub frame sleeves, and diff fluid changed two years ago. Might wait til 2021 to get that replaced. With all this work done I might keep it til 2024, being I got it in 2016. Then get a Tesla.

 

I have this same exact issue with my 2012 g37x sedan. Anybody have any clue what it could be? I’ve cleaned my throttle bodies, and one time when it shuttered and nearly died on second startup it threw a code for a MAP sensor. I took out my map and it had a little bit of oil on it.

 

Sounds like your throttle bodies need to be cleaned. I had an issue like that, cleaned the throttle bodies. Haven't had it since.

 

Like I said, I’ve already cleaned them. Upon inspection they didn’t even appear very dirty, but I cleaned them anyway when I changed my spark plugs. Improved idle a bit, but still shutters sometimes on a warm start. To elaborate further on OP question, I’m at 130k and in the last 3,000 miles I’ve had to: replace both front LCA, battery, both Front cv axles due to torn boots (not lowered), inner and outer tie rods, along with steering rack boot (didn’t notice a steering rack leak), tires due to uneven wear caused by worn tie rods, spark plugs and valve cover gasket & spark plug tube seals due to oil pooling up in my spark plug tubes. This weekend I’m replacing coil dampers on all four corners to KYB, and hotchkis sway bars along with moog sway bar links.

 

Sounds like I had the same issue. I'm at 160k, after few min of driving, the car wouldn't rev pass 3k, felt like it was gonna shut off, after 3 or 4 revs I put it in neutral for a few seconds then it drove normal. There was more hesitation on the hwy, then it eventually went back to normal. I had no codes, and dealership couldn't figure out what happened. But they clean MAF, and its been running good since last weekend. Btw, I have a Stillen CAI.

 

That doesn’t sound like my issue. The issue with mine does not affect drive-ability. It just *almost* dies or sometimes dies if I’m low on fuel only right as it starts up. If I give it a little gas on startup there’s no issue.