G37 Sedan

High Mileage on G37

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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 11:49 AM
  #61  
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Went to Napierville dragway yesterday evening.
19c great dry night.
236 000km as of going to the track
best was 13.65@102.6mph suprising a Golf R at the tree 2.0 60foot and winning the race.

Gotta love a 5000$ car.

Bought it. Ordered Hotchkis right away. Put 4 Federal evolution ST-1 tires.(that are really good and cheap)
The car transformed. Pushing really hard to slight throttle oversteer with the setting in the middle back and stiff out front. Great great packaged and had tracked a few cars myself.
Not even a rattle in the car

bring on the miles...

Last edited by Poloturbo; Jun 20, 2018 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 12:24 PM
  #62  
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You certainly got a sweet car. I wish mine were as trouble-free.
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 11:09 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by night_owl
Im having this issue currently, I really don't want to pull things apart to fix it, the dealer said they have a process where they blow high pressure through the sunroof drains to unclog it as standard maintenance. They want $75 to do it. They said it may or may not fix the issue
That seems odd. Do you have a picture of the "sunroof drains?" Does this just affect certain years? I could easily do this at work if this is a normal maintenance issue with these cars to prevent soaked carpets.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 10:30 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by night_owl

Originally Posted by Jays
‘Passenger and rear passenger carpets wet after heavy rain (still haven’t gotten this fixed even after clearing sunroof drain)'

Im having this issue currently, I really don't want to pull things apart to fix it, the dealer said they have a process where they blow high pressure through the sunroof drains to unclog it as standard maintenance. They want $75 to do it. They said it may or may not fix the issue
I had the same problem... The sunroof drain grommet that goes through the firewall cracks / shrinks over time. The fix was to to slather the grommet with silicone sealant from the inside. You have to remove the AC vent and relocate a wiring harness to get at it. My hand got scratched up really bad and the silicone made a big mess but it worked. I don't think it could be done on the driver side but fortunately it hasn't been a problem.

Last edited by acesk8er; Jun 24, 2018 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Formatting. Deleted bad link.
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Old Jun 23, 2018 | 09:30 PM
  #65  
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Just pushed over 146K (bought with 30K in 2013) on mine. Still going strong. Driver's window has a judder when rolling it down but everything is above board.
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 12:18 PM
  #66  
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From: Appleton, WI
Originally Posted by acesk8er

There are several threads about this issue:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/search....rchid=12873706

Your link doesn't go anywhere
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 10:28 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Your link doesn't go anywhere
Deleted, tried to link to search results. Thanks for the heads up.

This might be more helpful:

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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 08:32 PM
  #68  
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Thanks for the video. Sounds like the guy really likes his local Infiniti dealership.
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 08:12 PM
  #69  
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Hey guys, just wanted to contribute to the high mileage thread. I bought a used 12' G37 IPL 7AT. Only had one owner who drove it to 96k and the car is pristine for the mileage. Right now it's at 104k and I use it as a daily so I plan to keep it for a long time. So far these are the things I've done and what I plan to do in the future:
- Oil Change: Every 5,000 miles w/ Full Synthetic 5w-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage (5 1/8 quarts) and Mobil 1 M1-110A Oil Filter
I ran an oil analysis with Blackstone Labs and it came back fine other than a sodium reading in the sample that may show coolant contamination. However there were no other signs of coolant so it's most likely a harmless oil additive.
- Spark Plugs changed at 100,310 miles (Denso 3457 FXE24HR11 Spark Plugs)
- Battery replaced at 96,700 miles (Interstate Group 24 800 CCA Battery)
- Rotors and Pads replaced at 103k miles
Been having that breaking shudder with the oem rotors and pads so I switched over to drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads. Didn't get rid of the shuddering but I did notice it was more in the rear wheels than when I had the oem rotors/pads which was making the steering wheel shake. Happens when breaking over 40mph.

Things to get done:
- Differential bushings. I can see the oil leak residue so I'm sure it's blown. I'll be going with Whiteline bushings.
- I'm nearing the 105k service interval which means replacing the cabin filter, engine coolant, ATF, and Diff fluid.
- Thinking of replacing the Power Steering Fluid as well.

No other problems with the G37. It's been a blast the past 8 months owning it. Quick question if anyone knows the answer to this. The 105k maintenance says to replace the ATF "except models with the 7AT". Is there any reason to that and has anyone done it anyway?
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 08:32 PM
  #70  
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On the 7AT flush, I would recommend doing it every 30K just like is recommended for my 5AT. I really don't buy the "lifetime" fluid crap. When I took my car to its 75K service (only time I took it to the dealerhship, lol) they commented that the tranny fluid looked brown and was overdue.

My buddies and I did it on my friend's G37 Coupe. It's kind of a pain, as you have to pump through the drain plug using a fluid pump. But if you're already doing the differential it's basically the same process.
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 08:47 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by takeapieandrun
On the 7AT flush, I would recommend doing it every 30K just like is recommended for my 5AT. I really don't buy the "lifetime" fluid crap. When I took my car to its 75K service (only time I took it to the dealerhship, lol) they commented that the tranny fluid looked brown and was overdue.

My buddies and I did it on my friend's G37 Coupe. It's kind of a pain, as you have to pump through the drain plug using a fluid pump. But if you're already doing the differential it's basically the same process.
How much was the fluid change at the dealership?
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 09:53 PM
  #72  
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It was around $250 iirc, it was almost 5 years ago. I changed it again myself last year at 100k and it was much, much cheaper that way.
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 11:08 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by takeapieandrun
On the 7AT flush, I would recommend doing it every 30K just like is recommended for my 5AT. I really don't buy the "lifetime" fluid crap. When I took my car to its 75K service (only time I took it to the dealerhship, lol) they commented that the tranny fluid looked brown and was overdue.

My buddies and I did it on my friend's G37 Coupe. It's kind of a pain, as you have to pump through the drain plug using a fluid pump. But if you're already doing the differential it's basically the same process.
I would imagine it is just as easy to flush the 6MT transmission? I had one of my techs put redline fluid in mine last year, but I have flushed my diff a number of times so it would be cool if it was nearly as easy. The rear diff is pretty easy- it just takes time and your hand gets sore after pumping it so many times.
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 10:34 PM
  #74  
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I think my Transmission Flush was $215. They give you a Q60 3.0tt to drive which doesn't suck.
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 06:35 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by ezbme
I think my Transmission Flush was $215. They give you a Q60 3.0tt to drive which doesn't suck.
Originally Posted by 4DRZ
I would imagine it is just as easy to flush the 6MT transmission? I had one of my techs put redline fluid in mine last year, but I have flushed my diff a number of times so it would be cool if it was nearly as easy. The rear diff is pretty easy- it just takes time and your hand gets sore after pumping it so many times.
Originally Posted by takeapieandrun
It was around $250 iirc, it was almost 5 years ago. I changed it again myself last year at 100k and it was much, much cheaper that way.
Ahh gotcha guys, thanks for the estimate. I saw a DIY on it so I might attempt to do it myself. If all else fails or I have no time, I'll try to get that Q60 TT as a loaner.
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