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Some of those items can be leaking but not be bad enough to cause a problem just yet. It may be that they are just starting and the dealer is just giving you the list of stuff and the cost, but not doing too well at suggesting how you should prioritize. Also, those prices are straight crazy. Expect to pay 1/3 of that or less at the average independent shop. I think I paid like $450 to have my valve covers done, and maybe $300-ish to swap out a steering rack with a remanufactured unit I sourced myself for another $300-ish. Also, they're quoting you an entire new subframe, when you can just do the bushings, which are actually what's leaking. I upgraded my differential bushings with whiteline poly ones, and again, only a few hundo including parts.
I'd take it to a local shop you trust and pay the ~$75 diagnostic fee or whatever for a second opinion on what's bad enough to be pressing and a new list of quotes. (make sure you specify that you can get new bushings for the subframe or they might assume otherwise) If you've never actually needed to add more steering fluid or only like every 4th oil change, maybe let it go a while.
Did they show you what's leaking where, or just present a list? Based on those prices, you might as well get rid of the car
They sent pictures and prioritized the list. But there's no way I'm going to have all of that stuff done - even over time.Car isn't worth it. Looks like Christmas is coming early!
Brought my 2012 G37 (132k miles) in for rear brakes and was given a laundry list of other stuff that's wrong. Been going to the same dealer since I got the car in 2013 and there has never been any mention of things that might be going wrong or 'keep en eye on this'.
I'm really not amused at this list:
Radiator hoses leaking($600)
Valve cover leak($1600)
Rear bypass hose leak($1000)
Steering rack ($2,400)
Rear subframe leak ($2400)
After reading through this thread I'm even more suspicious that the list is b.s.since no one seems to have had any of these issues let alone all of them at the same time. They sent pictures but will have to show them to me when I go pick up the car later today.
I probably should get my big radiator hoses replaced, if they are more than 150 parts and labor I would be shocked, I will probably do that myself so $50
Valve Cover, someone told me mine was seeping, but I don't think I am losing fluid
I had the rear hoses replaced for 80+75 labor basically I had a guy come to the house. It might cost as much as 150 labor for the hoses.
Steering Rack, I do think some of them leak from time to time
Rear subframe, I bought the Z1 bushings and had it replaced, I think it was around 400 all together. Sad thing is, the car didn't even need it, subframe was replaced under warranty around 2013 or so.
Hey dudes quick question, ive always been super **** about keeping up with maintenance. although ive never done the diff flush or tranny flush. have about 95k on it, i was told that the fluid didnt need to be replaced. now im worried. original owner on it, '09 37S sedan
Hey dudes quick question, ive always been super **** about keeping up with maintenance. although ive never done the diff flush or tranny flush. have about 95k on it, i was told that the fluid didnt need to be replaced. now im worried. original owner on it, '09 37S sedan
Check the fluid to be sure, but yes it is probably definitely time to change the fluid in both. What is the interval in the owner's manual? 30k, 60k?
Hey dudes quick question, ive always been super **** about keeping up with maintenance. although ive never done the diff flush or tranny flush. have about 95k on it, i was told that the fluid didnt need to be replaced. now im worried. original owner on it, '09 37S sedan
Never too late to change it. I did mine when it was in the upper 70K range.
No ill effects, but only change I've noticed is that starting about six months ago, when the car is cold, I sometimes feel a slight delay in the tranny engagement when going into reverse. Almost like the clutch is slipping for about one second, then it behaves normally. Likely just wear and not related. I only sense this once when it's cold, never when warm, and not all the time.
I bought my 2010 g37s sedan 6 spd manual with 70000 miles in june of 2017 and today I dinged 160,000. I will rebuild her engine when it comes time. I found my dream car.
I don’t own one but seems to me the drivetrain is fairly bullet proof if you have a manual (cd09). Aside from the normal maintenance and couple sensors and a cat going bad seems like you can do 200k+ without a lot of headaches. If you go to any drift events you start to see these cars g35/g37/350z/370z with high miles being beaten on with out huge hiccups.
I own 2007 G35S, 2010 M35X and 2017 GSF. My son is driving my previous G now. Even though I'm driving GSF, I still LOVE to drive my son's G and my wife's M A LOT now.
I always change auto transmission fluid in G and M every 30k miles. Their trans still shift as smooth as butter, even smoother than my new GSF sometimes. (Of course GSF trans is quicker but G/M trans is quick enough at least 95% of the time)
I also plan to pass my wife's current M to my daughter next year and buy a very new used Q50 3.0t instead of a GT-R. And, I will tune it to be GT-R like fast...
I also rented a 2018 M4(competition package) one month ago and both my wife and I drove it for a day. Guess what? My wife said she never thought her M was still that good and now drive her M much more aggressively than before!!! Of course M4 is better car but my wife's old M35X is also good...
PS: Actually we both didn't like that M4 and both agree that my GSF is more stable and comfortable than that M4 on both straight and curvy roads!!! And, M4 DCT trans felt too DIRECT in city traffic even at the most comfortable mode... (My wife said it reminded her of our 1995 Accord long time ago which came with MANUAL trans!!! I admit my skill on manual trans was not good, even NOW...)
Last edited by Donald Lin; 11-25-2019 at 11:33 AM.
I don’t own one but seems to me the drivetrain is fairly bullet proof if you have a manual (cd09). Aside from the normal maintenance and couple sensors and a cat going bad seems like you can do 200k+ without a lot of headaches. If you go to any drift events you start to see these cars g35/g37/350z/370z with high miles being beaten on with out huge hiccups.
6MT the CSC Clutch Slave Cylinder is almost an always upgrade item, and not the cheapest item to replace unless doing some other work around the transmission.
Other items to note the go across many Nissan/ Infiniti platforms. Gallery gaskets on pre - 2013 vehicles, and the heater core/hose plastic connector (which is an easy enough DIY fix, but seems to fail on a lot of these cars and could lead to major issues if not addressed properly/engine overheats).
6MT the CSC Clutch Slave Cylinder is almost an always upgrade item, and not the cheapest item to replace unless doing some other work around the transmission.
Has anyone tried Z1's CSC elimination kit? I meant to look into that. Not quite sure how it works.
I have a 2010 Base model with 171K and the only problems I've had are the small coolant hoses between the block and firewall and throttle bodies. They are a pain in the azz to replace yourself. I would buy the hoses from the dealer now and hold them until you need them. I would do them all at once while the intake plenum is off. Otherwise you will wait for them to be shipped to the dealer when they go out. Any reputable shop can replace them cheaper than the dealer. Food for thought.
My dealer actually fixed it (I referenced a TSB about it I believe your linked to 350z forum post makes mention of) under Elite coverage this past year. They did the same to the other axle in the rear. New grease, repacked, new crown nuts/pins.
I was getting a transmission drain and fill procedure done as they had $25 off on a 100-200$ spent, so I was taking them up on that. I'm not sure if that helped or not.
Otherwise I was going to to do it myself over the past summer.
70k miles 7AT. The tick was only audible at low speeds, but you could hear a definitive click when the car was cold and you put it in reverse/back into drive/etc. That was the indicator to them that the TSB needed done.
I have an 08 G35x with 78k miles on it... it has been a relatively reliable car considering i beat the crap out of it daily,
Other than consumables i have had the upper rad hose, wheel bearings in the front the front half of the exhaust and the drivers door freezing issue... other than that it still runs great and pulls hard...
Also my radar cruise control has a mind of its own
11-07-2019, 06:33 PM
Of course M4 is better car but my wife's old M35X is also good...
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