I removed the lining after the damage was done. Here is a really old photo of the scratches starting to appear.


One of the reasons I ended up blacking it out.

 

I initially installed my bar drove for months and had no rubbing. Removed and reinstalled and now it rubs and is marked up. It is possible to get it low enough to clear but I think there is a bit of luck involved. Unless you go all out and put some indicators on both ends while tightening, like a true mad man!

 

FYI... in addition to buttoning up the drive train, Z1 motor mounts will lower the engine 1/2" or so.

 

Ordered switchback LEDs for the front from @Diode Dynamics since there's a sale. Added a fancy oil cap... getting ready for the show in October. Also, 150 miles closer (over the past 2 weeks) to having the new clutch broken in. I'm babying it, but it is difficult LOL.

At least in daily driving/traffic/normal highway use, the lightweight FW is causing zero problems. Have a little rattle in first or second if I bog it accidentally, but hard to hear with music on really.

 

Z1 intakes, oil change, and street pad swap.
Coilovers going in tomorrow.

 

Filters look odd in that pic, like they were crushed or something. What's up with all the zip ties?

What's Z1's solution for a water shield? Are the midpipes CF or aluminum? Did you dremmel out the inlets?

Did you just wing it when dropping the bumper, or did you find a write-up or video guide?

 

I think I can answer a lot of that from the pic.
Filters aren't crushed, they have water repelling socks on them, which also answers your water shield question. Although, those filters aren't from z1. The tubes are gloss black aluminum, the new CF tubes are much glossier.
And the cable ties are holding up his trans/oil? cooler lines from touching the bottom of the bumper and rattling.

 

Ah. Socks, huh? I wasn't aware that was a thing. Apparently K&N sells them in a variety of colors, too.

I think you're right about the midpipes. The CF pipes are more glossy.

Zip ties on oil cooler lines. Makes sense.

I like these air filters that Z1 is selling... inverted pop chargers with a velocity stack: https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...ke-p-3941.html

 

We appreciate your support, @rotarymike !

We're looking forward to getting your lights to you 😎

John C.
Diode Dynamics

 

Yeah Hexotic got most of it but just to add too it..

The filters are AEM dry flows with Spectre filter covers. The Z1 filters are lightly oiled, like the K&N’s, which I’m not a fan of. Plus I got my intakes used with one of the Z1 filters torn. So instead of paying $75ish shipped for one filter I replaced both and got the hydrophobic covers for around $90.

Zip ties are just secondary support for the oil cooler lines. They’re pretty stiff and don’t move much but the ties keep them away from the PS cooler fins and that vertical radiator support bar.

Pipes are Z1 aluminum in their powdered coated black option. The new CF pipes look nice but far too expensive for what it is IMO. Yup inlets were dremeled out for sure. Very easy to do, I’ll get more pictures of the trimmed area.

Just winged it, but it is my second time dropping the bumper and like everything else it was much faster this time.

 

Thanks for the details, guys. I learned about air filter wraps today... that was interesting.

In all these years I've still never dropped my front bumper. And I'm still chickenschit about it, LOL. I wish someone would post a Sedan DIY on the topic, with details and pics. Or if there are guides out there, if someone could share the link.

 

I used Filterwraps brand on mine - should be pics in my build thread that show them installed. They're popular with motorcyclists apparently. Put them on my R2C and dunked one in the sink and the filter didn't get wet for the 5 minutes it was in there... that's likely good enough.

I found a guide when I dropped my front bumper somewhere on here but can't recall and it isn't in my subscribed threads any more. For what it's worth, there's a 10mm bolt at the very top of the bumper next to the headlight (where the blue painter's tape is in @2.2Lude 's picture that I still haven't figured out how to get back in there. Doesn't seem to make much difference other than the panel gap there is not tight.

 

Really poorly designed but once you pull back the seal/trim on either fender it’s a straight shot with a deep socket on a small extension. Have a magnet handy if you don’t have small/quick fingers.

 

The first time around I think just looked up a few videos and pieced it together. If I don’t get lazy during reassembly I’ll try and get some pictures and maybe make a guide for you lol

 

My bumper is off right now, so I'm tempted to take some photos. I'm a bit depressed to do anything today though as installing the cats revealed an exploded cv boot, need new axel, and a leaking valve cover gasket.

On the bright side, took this week off work. Installed FI RHFC, Installed Z1 front upper control arms, still have to flush the coolant and install all new silicone hoses for everything. Also, have a new steering rack ready to go in as mine is leaking like a busted fire hydrant.