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How in the heck did you get that screwed on to our oil pan without hammering a dent into it for clearance? I could only get about 3 turns on the threads before it was a hard-stop on the hump of the oil pan near the plug. Welp, I'm not hammering a dent for clearance in the oil pan. Don't want to do that.
I don't have a picture of it in the oil pan (just checked) but I didn't have ANY difficulty installing it.
Well, it's a thing. I don't know what to say about it. Here's a pic:
However, after threading it in and getting stuck on the hump, I decided instead of hammering in a dent that I would apply the wrench and muscle through the interference. Figure I'd know right away if that was do-able, or a hard-stop. Turned out to be do-able. I got three more rotations pushed around the hump before it was on solid.
Well, it's a thing. I don't know what to say about it. Here's a pic:
However, after threading it in and getting stuck on the hump, I decided instead of hammering in a dent that I would apply the wrench and muscle through the interference. Figure I'd know right away if that was do-able, or a hard-stop. Turned out to be do-able. I got three more rotations pushed around the hump before it was on solid.
Go figure.
I dont recall all the details of install, but with the copper washer, I might have gotten a little interference, but was able to finish install and was tight. I had a small drip on checking a few days later and it just needed another half turn.
I dont recall all the details of install, but with the copper washer, I might have gotten a little interference, but was able to finish install and was tight. I had a small drip on checking a few days later and it just needed another half turn.
The long-nipple version has more brass between the valve cube and the flange - that spaces it out enough to not hit the bump I guess. See https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post4281860 you can see it right up against the pan on the first picture.
Mine have been painted for like... 2 years now and they are still pretty strong and good looking. I powerwash and scrub it all the time, no paint flaking. I used VHT as well.
I did also put them in the oven to cure, I don't remember how long or what temp though.
I assume you just didn't prep it correctly. Did you sand it down? clean it very well? use wax and grease remover / alcohol?
Just curious why you chose to run the z1 rotors backward. I know they're not directional vanes and the orientation of the slots doesn't matter, but still lol.
uhhhhhhhh holy **** i never noticed that. I'm wondering if that was just a test fit in the photo and if i left it like that. Im gonna go look later.......
Anyways, today's project was fix my failing gauge cluster display and mod it a little bit.
Before:
During....
After!
The end result is a 2007 face, 2010+ needles and screen. (white backlight)
uhhhhhhhh holy **** i never noticed that. I'm wondering if that was just a test fit in the photo and if i left it like that. Im gonna go look later.......
The end result is a 2007 face, 2010+ needles and screen. (white backlight)
That came out fantastic!
As for brakes, doesn't matter, doesn't affect anything. Brembo actually runs theirs that way. I was just going by the labels on the boxes since it has like front left, back right, etc on them. If the vanes inside were directional, it would be catastrophic for cooling, but since they're straight, it's all good.
That came out fantastic!
As for brakes, doesn't matter, doesn't affect anything. Brembo actually runs theirs that way. I was just going by the labels on the boxes since it has like front left, back right, etc on them. If the vanes inside were directional, it would be catastrophic for cooling, but since they're straight, it's all good.
I know it doesnt matter but now that you pointed it out it's gonna bother me forever lol
In preparation of installing my hfc’s I liberally sprayed down all of the bolts I would be removing and lightly hit the o2 sensor bolts. Started the car this morning and there was a ton of smoke from the pb blaster burning off. After idling for about 5mins I drove it for about 10 and my cel came on. Diagnosis was P0300 (helpful right?)
Exhaust seems to sound a bit deeper than normal? I didn’t wrench on anything.
Did the pedal dances and it went away for now. Exhaust is back to sounding normal.
Would PB blaster hitting the O2’s or something under the engine from overspray cause issues? I was under the impression it’ll evaporate away, but now I’m worried I might have messed something up.
you sort of have to
