When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Mine have been painted for like... 2 years now and they are still pretty strong and good looking. I powerwash and scrub it all the time, no paint flaking. I used VHT as well.
I did also put them in the oven to cure, I don't remember how long or what temp though.
I assume you just didn't prep it correctly. Did you sand it down? clean it very well? use wax and grease remover / alcohol?
The high-heat primer (as are most primers) is intended for bare metal. The calipers (I'm assuming akebonos) aren't bare - they're anodized. The anodized coating is then clear-coated. I'm not suggesting you sandblast them, but you need a primer that will etch somewhat to get some bite.
Edited to add: Also - stick them in the oven at 300* for an hour or so. Not hot enough to hurt the seals (brakes get hotter than that when running hard) but definitely hot enough to cure the primer / paint.
/// maybe do this while your housemate(s) are not home...
I sanded them down, then took 91% alcohol rub to them to knock off any residue. The only thing I see different is I didn't do an oven cure. I believe the can said you could allow them to dry for a minimum of two hours; which is the route I did and left them to bake in the sun for a 'natural cure'. The first time, I took it down to bare metal. The second time, I just did a 600 grit to rough up the surface, re-sprayed primer let dry, paint then let dry again.
Considering another 600 sanding on the current paint then re-spraying to see if it takes; feeling a bit defeated at this point so a lazy half-cocked attempt is all I have in me before I go the professional route.
If you've got crappy adhesion with the prior primer and paint, you might need to remove it all. Are they off the car? If so, easy enough to get a cheap sand blaster at harbor freight and glass bead or walnut shell to blast with.
I have the silver TBW undertray. I also have the Fumoto drain valve which I directed to pour out so it flows out perfectly through the open tray. Best money I have spent on oil related products. Hardly get my hands oily unless I juggle the oil filter. https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...MaAud5EALw_wcB
Originally Posted by Rochester
@ngolbuff , which of the three did you get? If I do this, I'm thinking I'd like to get the long-nipple version and a length of hose, but IDK if the long nipple version clears the TBW undertray. Or maybe play it safe and get the short nipple, then get one of these for the wife's Subaru. I just changed her oil yesterday, and there's ample room for the long nipple. The plastic would be nice too, because for some reason the Subby drains oil like a freaking fire hose.
There's the F133 (no nipple), F133S (short nipple) and the F133N (long nipple).
And now I'm just going to say "nipple" again, LOL.
Originally Posted by ngolbuff
I got the short nipple style. That way, I could also add on a piece of hose later on, but it will also clear the tray. I have it angled right now so it perfectly drains out in the corner of the opening without hitting the tray at all even when it slows down. Talking slow down, this will be slower than draining oil with the plug, but I crawl back out and check tires, grab drink, other misc. while it is draining for the extra minute or so.
NIPPLE. #FreeTheNips
these are awesome - been using it for 3 1/2 years & never had a problem with it at all
these are awesome - been using it for 3 1/2 years & never had a problem with it at all
Thanks, Mikey. I've got my short-nipple Fumoto drain valve right here in my hand waiting for the next OCI, which is probably this weekend.
On the assumption that I feel the same way post-install, and this time next year when I change the oil again... thanks in advance to everyone here who inspired me to get this.
I wouldn't use one in a track vehicle - the interior threads raise the 'floor' of the oil pan a bit and don't allow a tad more of the old oil to drain out. But then again, with the race cars we jacked up only one side so the engine was tilted towards the drain pan plug side to get as much out as possible LOL.
Also protip: High-strength magnets duct-taped to the outside of your oil filter. I used old HDD magnets before I was given some neodymium coin-size magnets. Is it magic? No. But it does hold any ferrous particles to the sides rather than letting them hit the filter media.
Aw man, you're scaring me away from this DIY. I've been inching towards this, and now I'm spooked.
Even my powder coat took some damage, it's inevitable. As long as you use the correct products and clean clean clean, shouldn't be an issue. DIY products unfortunately don't come in as many finishes, but for people in Cali, there's a company called Resurrection Calipers. They do all sorts of pearls and stuff on the spot, or car can be dropped off.
Man, the gains in that graph look fantastic. Smooth and straight. Does the car feel like it revs up smoother?
It feels alot smoother. The test pipes felt like it made a big difference, but nothing compared to the intake and tune. I was blown away by the increase.
you sort of have to
