Sedan Chat Thread
Theres an 18" wheel thread with lots of different examples of fitment and suspension setups for both coupes and sedans.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/18/2765...ic-thread.html
I also recommend looking at fitment industries galleries, its a good visual reference point for wheel sizing and fitment.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/18/2765...ic-thread.html
I also recommend looking at fitment industries galleries, its a good visual reference point for wheel sizing and fitment.
For the UCAs thats going from OEM rubber to spherical but I have also read that NVH hasn't been an issue with that switch.
My car is a DD 99% of the time but I plan to do 1-2 trackdays with some autocross.
I was looking at FA500s but since they raised the price with no benefits(covid) I have been looking at MeisterR GT1s which have double digressive valve (compression and rebound blow off at high speeds) think about curbs on a track.. etc. Alot of generic shocks don't feel good or do ride like crap. FA recommends 11k/8k and MeisterR recommends 10k/8k for my DD/Occasional track situation.
I do have equipment to see what the OEM springs are on my sport sedan but I'd need to take em off my car and by then it's too late
I'd love to see what the OEM ride frequencies are.
I had a GR WRX with custom shocks that had Compression blow off which felt very good. And I've also had a car that has high speed comp/rebound blow off which also felt good. So looking for something in that realm.
One big reason for coilovers is to lower my car so I can fit more aggressive square wheels and tires for both DD and if I ever get a track set.
My car is a DD 99% of the time but I plan to do 1-2 trackdays with some autocross.
I was looking at FA500s but since they raised the price with no benefits(covid) I have been looking at MeisterR GT1s which have double digressive valve (compression and rebound blow off at high speeds) think about curbs on a track.. etc. Alot of generic shocks don't feel good or do ride like crap. FA recommends 11k/8k and MeisterR recommends 10k/8k for my DD/Occasional track situation.
I do have equipment to see what the OEM springs are on my sport sedan but I'd need to take em off my car and by then it's too late
I'd love to see what the OEM ride frequencies are.I had a GR WRX with custom shocks that had Compression blow off which felt very good. And I've also had a car that has high speed comp/rebound blow off which also felt good. So looking for something in that realm.
One big reason for coilovers is to lower my car so I can fit more aggressive square wheels and tires for both DD and if I ever get a track set.
Thescreensavers, I may have some info about stock g37 sport sedan spring rates in my old thread about 370z nismo springs. I'm on my phone right now and don't feel like searching for it at the moment though.
If you are still at stock ride hight then the aftermarket endlinks are not really needed. Only concern would be if they are failing, Someone correct me if I am wrong but that's not an issue. Reason for aftermarket endlinks that are adjustable is to remove any preload, If you are lowered that's when you need adjustment. Up to you just wanted to give you the FYI.
Since both bars are the same OD you'd need to find the wall thickness and hold positions to compare apples to aples, though Z1 does provide adjustment in the front.
Also another thought, you can see what people are SCCA Nationals are running but not sure there are many 370z's if any. At the end of the day just flip a coin both will be an improvement
Hotchkis
Since both bars are the same OD you'd need to find the wall thickness and hold positions to compare apples to aples, though Z1 does provide adjustment in the front.
Also another thought, you can see what people are SCCA Nationals are running but not sure there are many 370z's if any. At the end of the day just flip a coin both will be an improvement

Hotchkis
- Specs: Front Sway Bar 35mm (1-3/8 in.) Hollow
- +230% Stiffer than Stock G37
- +205% Stiffer than stock G37S
- Rear Sway Bar 28.5mm (1.125 in.) Hollow
- 3 Way Adjustable
- +130 185 260% Stiffer than Stock G37
- +15 40 75% Stiffer than stock G37S
- Bar Diameter
- 35 mm Front
- 28.5 mm Rear
- Front Bar Stiffness (Over Stock)
- Hole 1: 114% Increase
- Hole 2: 165% Increase
- Rear Bar Stiffness (Over Stock)
- Hole 1: 138% Increase
- Hole 2: 214% Increase
Thanks for digging up the numbers - looks like the sweet spot would be Z1 front and Hotchkis rear.
The Hotchkis front bar is a teeny bit too stiff IMHO if you do anything else to the suspension - replace the shocks, get lowering springs, etc. Hotchkis + NISMO Z springs + Koni yellows + 19" wheels on an S Sedan = a little skittish in the front, on normal poorly maintained road surfaces at least. Good, fresh pavement it is *AMAZEBALLS*
The Hotchkis front bar is a teeny bit too stiff IMHO if you do anything else to the suspension - replace the shocks, get lowering springs, etc. Hotchkis + NISMO Z springs + Koni yellows + 19" wheels on an S Sedan = a little skittish in the front, on normal poorly maintained road surfaces at least. Good, fresh pavement it is *AMAZEBALLS*
I'm going back to stock S springs on the rear, and non-NISMO 370Z in the front when I get a chance to work on the car. Keeping the Konis and Hotchkis. Hopefully will give a little more compliance in the front and a little more ride height in the back.
So... question is, sell the NISMO springs or put them in the racecar bin? I'm actively looking for a dead/ragged 350 or 370 to build a track car; not sure if NISMO springs would be good or if I'll have to go full coilover.
So... question is, sell the NISMO springs or put them in the racecar bin? I'm actively looking for a dead/ragged 350 or 370 to build a track car; not sure if NISMO springs would be good or if I'll have to go full coilover.
I can't remember, which springs do you have in the rear currently?
I'm still on pre-2015 nismo springs front and rear and it's been great thus far, but the rear will sag if I put too much weight in the back, even with the spacers I added on top of the spring perch. Even a full gas tank makes it sag a bit so I usually run with 3/4 tank at the most. I never have any passengers in the back seat so I'm not too concerned though. I've considered going with swift springs or full coilovers if the need arises in the future (kids, maybe).
I'm still on pre-2015 nismo springs front and rear and it's been great thus far, but the rear will sag if I put too much weight in the back, even with the spacers I added on top of the spring perch. Even a full gas tank makes it sag a bit so I usually run with 3/4 tank at the most. I never have any passengers in the back seat so I'm not too concerned though. I've considered going with swift springs or full coilovers if the need arises in the future (kids, maybe).
Currently red Nismo (that's the earlier ones, IIRC) all the way around. Front drop is perfect, but man they're hard. Get really rattled on my crappy roads around here. The rears have 3/8" poly spacers under the bottom seat (split) and are the same chassis height as the fronts, but with the visuals of the rear being lower. I bottom out sometimes on highway bumps and would prefer a little forward rake, so I'm going to try the OEM sport springs again in the rear (no spacer). The 370Z non-nismo rates look softer than the Sport springs, and I think that would lead to a worse ride height in the rear.
I commonly have a 25# carseat and 50# kid in the rear seat - not enough to really cause sag, but the weight is there. Not much other than sunvisor and umbrella and a tiny safe (~2 lbs) in the trunk.
I commonly have a 25# carseat and 50# kid in the rear seat - not enough to really cause sag, but the weight is there. Not much other than sunvisor and umbrella and a tiny safe (~2 lbs) in the trunk.
I'm going back to stock S springs on the rear, and non-NISMO 370Z in the front when I get a chance to work on the car. Keeping the Konis and Hotchkis. Hopefully will give a little more compliance in the front and a little more ride height in the back.
So... question is, sell the NISMO springs or put them in the racecar bin? I'm actively looking for a dead/ragged 350 or 370 to build a track car; not sure if NISMO springs would be good or if I'll have to go full coilover.
So... question is, sell the NISMO springs or put them in the racecar bin? I'm actively looking for a dead/ragged 350 or 370 to build a track car; not sure if NISMO springs would be good or if I'll have to go full coilover.
If you are going for a track car build, then Coilovers is a no brainer being able to corner balance with you in the car is huge in itself.
I've got a friend visiting this weekend, bringing his new-2-him car... a 2013 BMW 135i 6MT M-Sport. (That's a long name.)
Everything I've read about this is that it's a fun little driver's car. Lightweight, 300hp, 6MT, RWD, and a smooth inline six. So I'm looking forward to seeing it.
Everything I've read about this is that it's a fun little driver's car. Lightweight, 300hp, 6MT, RWD, and a smooth inline six. So I'm looking forward to seeing it.
I've got a friend visiting this weekend, bringing his new-2-him car... a 2013 BMW 135i 6MT M-Sport. (That's a long name.)
Everything I've read about this is that it's a fun little driver's car. Lightweight, 300hp, 6MT, RWD, and a smooth inline six. So I'm looking forward to seeing it.
Everything I've read about this is that it's a fun little driver's car. Lightweight, 300hp, 6MT, RWD, and a smooth inline six. So I'm looking forward to seeing it.
For detailing spray, I've been using C.A.R. Products Bullet Proof Topper for a number of years now. Just bought a new bottle this morning, and thought I'd make the recommendation.
It works like all detailing liquids... mist on, wipe off. But this stuff leaves a wonderful shine, and the feel of the car's surface afterwards is amazing. Plus, it lasts longer that off-the-shelf detailing sprays. I don't apply it all the time, maybe every three washes, but it sure is a joy to use.

It works like all detailing liquids... mist on, wipe off. But this stuff leaves a wonderful shine, and the feel of the car's surface afterwards is amazing. Plus, it lasts longer that off-the-shelf detailing sprays. I don't apply it all the time, maybe every three washes, but it sure is a joy to use.

My kid's 2014 Sentra started growling this morning with an exhaust leak. I got under the car and discovered the flange connections between the resonator and the muffler were disconnected. The bolts had sheared right off.
So with the hammer and chisel, I could break off the rusted nut on one of the holes, but couldn't break away the other. And the best I could do for now was put a big SS bolt in the one accessible hole. But just the one.
How long do you think one bolt can hang on?


So with the hammer and chisel, I could break off the rusted nut on one of the holes, but couldn't break away the other. And the best I could do for now was put a big SS bolt in the one accessible hole. But just the one.
How long do you think one bolt can hang on?











