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Assuming a "proper charge" (based solely on low-side pressure reading), under maximum AC load, both fans should be running at full speed (they will be "roaring" loud) and you should easily feel the blast of heat as it is being rejected from the condenser. After a few minutes of continuous running, there should also be a semi-steady drip/ trickle from underneath the car from the evaporator drain tube.
If above seems normal, and there is still "weak" output from the vents, the problem then points to either a mechanical issue (possibly, the TXV) or a control (electronics) issue (blend door(s), temp sensors, trim value, etc.).
At this point, unless someone else has any other ideas, I would take it to a reputable shop. They will put a full set of gauges on and be able to read what the refrigerant is doing. Those quick charge cans are fine in cases where slow leaks are known/ suspected, but do nothing for diagnosing.
Seconded. If you don't have the full set of gauges and know how to use them, it is impossible to diagnose. You can throw parts at it but... better find out what it is the first time.
Also - if the shop tells you (up front) everything needs to be replaced and its like $3k - find a different shop.
So I started my alternator job today, first of all, worst job I've done on this car to date. Barely any room to do anything lol. While I was in there, of course I found more issues. All my idler and tensioner bearings have bad play. Ordered replacements to press in rather than getting entire new ones.
The bigger issue is oil is leaking out from somewhere on the upper part of the engine. Does this look like valve cover issues or timing cover issues? I can't really find much info about any common leaks from this area. It's clearly been leaking for a while now, and it's the reason that my alternator died. It was totally soaked in oil.
Both sides of the engine are doing this, but the left side is the bad one
Figures, all this pops up right after hitting 150,100.
Lol yea tires were done already though so was a good send off. It was on an oval shaped track so basically had 4x 180s that pounded that tire hard hah.
Was fun over driving the car though since these tires felt like driving on ice
It would have to fit the diameter of 2.25" Invidia q300 exhaust. And I'm done trying to work on the old exhaust, just want it gone lol, but thank you!
Doesn't the q300 flex pipe portion consist of solid pieces - resonator like pipes? Did one of those finally sping a leak? Or is it at a junction/flange/gasket? That exhaust is roughly a decade old now. Suppose it's held up well. Don't recall ever driving the car while it was actually snowing. You did do something with the cats right so that may have loosened something up to cause a leak.
So I started my alternator job today, first of all, worst job I've done on this car to date. Barely any room to do anything lol. While I was in there, of course I found more issues. All my idler and tensioner bearings have bad play. Ordered replacements to press in rather than getting entire new ones.
The bigger issue is oil is leaking out from somewhere on the upper part of the engine. Does this look like valve cover issues or timing cover issues? I can't really find much info about any common leaks from this area. It's clearly been leaking for a while now, and it's the reason that my alternator died. It was totally soaked in oil.
Both sides of the engine are doing this, but the left side is the bad one
Figures, all this pops up right after hitting 150,100.
Being that it's coming from the top I say VCs. I'm sure one of the bolts will not be as tight as the rest. For further comfirmation while you're in that area, some purple power/simple clean will leave that area looking new.
Ps pump leaking on top of the alternator is common so make sure you clean that pump up.
Lastly, I've jammed paper towels in areas before to confirm these leaks.
Being that it's coming from the top I say VCs. I'm sure one of the bolts will not be as tight as the rest. For further comfirmation while you're in that area, some purple power/simple clean will leave that area looking new.
Ps pump leaking on top of the alternator is common so make sure you clean that pump up.
Lastly, I've jammed paper towels in areas before to confirm these leaks.
That was my thought as well. These pics are also before powerwashing and using purple power. I'm gonna go ahead and order valve cover gaskets then. PS pump leaking is common too? what's the fix? new pump or are there servicable gaskets?
That was my thought as well. These pics are also before powerwashing and using purple power. I'm gonna go ahead and order valve cover gaskets then. PS pump leaking is common too? what's the fix? new pump or are there servicable gaskets?
Well, they sell seals for PS pumps.
The pump you have which is a non sport (pressed pulley) is fairly common and can be found for cheap
The Sport pump ( Nut in the middle) is the uncommon pump. This pump interchanges with Titan/Armada/QX56 which are cheap
I've tried to re-seal a pump and found that your average RTV does not like ATF. Later found out that Nissan techs use their Red RTV for transmission jobs being that regular RTV mixes with the ATF.
being that the pulley is the hardest thing to do I'd suggest replacement. This one will leak before the alternator dies so preventing leaks on this side will keep the alternator as healthy as possible.
Because I found the right pump I just threw the pump while I was there.
Also why didnt you take it out of the bottom? Would have been a bit easier if you did.
Oh I did take it out from the bottom, but I did have to remove the fan assembly, upper radiator hose to get room to work. After I got the belt off i realized the pulleys all have bad bearings. Im not 100% sure if the PS pump is even leaking, so I'll just have to clean it and re-access after a while I guess.
The hardest part was getting the lug on the back of the alternator, not a lot of room back there. Oh, and that stupid bracket that also connects to it.
Oh I did take it out from the bottom, but I did have to remove the fan assembly, upper radiator hose to get room to work. After I got the belt off i realized the pulleys all have bad bearings. Im not 100% sure if the PS pump is even leaking, so I'll just have to clean it and re-access after a while I guess.
The hardest part was getting the lug on the back of the alternator, not a lot of room back there. Oh, and that stupid bracket that also connects to it.
I had bad bearings. Took the ones off my engine stand engine.
These are not as bad to change however they're expensive. Maybe you can get away with finding the right bearings, I went with lower mileage ones.
I was surprised being that the squeaky pulley came from a partially seized one however the wobbling ones were spinning just fine. Maybe you can source them all out and change them at a later time.
Does anyone have a picture of their car's rear shock towers? I am trying to visualize how I'm going to do things in the future, I want to install a RDC (remote damper controller) but I wanted an idea of where I'll be cutting.
Doesn't the q300 flex pipe portion consist of solid pieces - resonator like pipes? Did one of those finally sping a leak? Or is it at a junction/flange/gasket? That exhaust is roughly a decade old now. Suppose it's held up well. Don't recall ever driving the car while it was actually snowing. You did do something with the cats right so that may have loosened something up to cause a leak.
I did install high flow cats yeah, but I can see a brown/blackened spot coming out of the flex pipe so its definitely leaking there. The flex pipe is this style:
