John, I'd add that if you haven't had your A/C serviced perhaps ever, an evacuation and new dryer (dessicant) might be in order to remove accumulated moisture. THEN recharge. I don't have reclamation tools, so I've not done this since they switched most cars to R134 (ha that was 1995 or so) but prior... replace dryer, pull a vacuum, let it hold for a while to evaporate any water mixed with oil/lube/under orings, recharge, and it is like having a brand-new AC.

If you just need a top-off - the simple kits are OK. Or you could spend the $100 or so on gauges and a bottle of refrigerant and do it right.

/licensed HVAC tech, albeit from ~1996 so YMMV.

 

Never ever. 2011 with 50K miles.

I'm just going to buy the recharge kit for $37 at Walmart, and give it a go on Friday when temps climb back over 80°F.

 

Being the one who likes to do everything themselves and one who's charged his G a couple of times.
I've tried THE CAN, I've tried it with my A/C gauge manifold, both times vacuumed out the system. The issue is the system takes an exact 1.21lbs or 55kgs and this is a measure you cannot obtain by hand.
I tried the good ol trick to add bit by bit using a thermometer in the vent and ended up over charging the system. It would blow a ridiculous 33F at full blast but it woul reach that too quickly and "freeze" then turn off until it thawed out.
After having enough of my shenanigans I took it to my buddy's shop and used the machine. Vacuumed out the Freon, had 1.35lbs. Inserted the right amount and we're golden.

Another issue with manual charging is inserting air into the system, this air will take space in the system and just by .1 or .2 of space taken by anything other than freon will cause the system to underperform.

Good luck John!

 

You might want to find where it's leaking from before recharging. I think the OEM refrigerant/lubricating oil has dye in it that will glow under UV light.

 

Have only driven the G a handful of times this year, it's making me sad. It's hard to believe Rochester, but your mileage is actually going up faster than mine I think, haha. Mine's a 2012 and somewhere in the 45xxx range. Now it's getting so hot so I've missed a lot of the nice temperatures.

Waiting on my FI exhaust to ship because I still have that exhaust leak, which is why I don't drive it much. I'm going to install the 2-piece front and rear rotors at the same time as I do the exhaust swap. Should be end of May to mid-June. I'll be posting my thoughts on the exhaust and pads/rotors, pics, and sound clips of the new exhaust because I like my documentation!

Also be on the lookout for my old exhaust in the FS section.

 

On my way back from the store and the alternator died..... barely made it home. Gauges shut off then the car started sputtering. This is gonna be fun to change

 

Not sure I would want to buy that leaky exhaust backman, but if your G is a 6MT with 45k miles I would definitely buy that.

 

In a few years when I go to sell mine, I suspect the industry will be charging (no pun) forward with EVs, gas will be even more expensive than it is now, and the used car market will have corrected itself making my ask much lower than today's values.

Bad timing on my part, but good karma for the next owner.

 

It just needs the flex pipe(s) replaced, so that would cost around $150-200? And I'll probably end up selling it for like $400, complete cat-back.

 

Hey, I've got an OEM flex pipe in decent shape it's just a beeotch to ship.

 

It would have to fit the diameter of 2.25" Invidia q300 exhaust. And I'm done trying to work on the old exhaust, just want it gone lol, but thank you!

 

For $32 at Walmart, I bought a can of AC Pro with the valve gauge, and went to charge up the AC today. It's over 90°F outside, seemed a good day to get into this project.

Started the car and drove it around to get up to operating temp. Returned home and pulled it into the garage, leaving it running. I cranked the AC down to 60°F and full fan, confirming that the AC Compressor was spinning (it was). Confirmed it again by shutting the AC off and checking again. Then I removed the plastic collar from the can, and screwed on the gauge cap, finally attaching the connector to the Low Pressure port...

...and the gauge is telling me there's already 50 psi in the system. WTF?

So obviously that's where I stopped, stumped about the situation. Anyone have some advice what to do next? The compressor is spinning, and there's correct pressure in the AC lines. Anything else I can DIY before taking it to a shop? I mean, there is cool air coming from the vents, but it's really weak.

 

I think when I charged mine on my RSX years ago, my father had me rev up the engine a bit to around 2k maybe and hold it there while charging. But I don't think that would fix the gauge reading. Sorry I can't be more useful!

 

Your pressures seem fine based on the temperature/pressure charts, however, you should be outside, windows open, AC to 60˚/ blower MAX, while testing. You want the highest load possible on the AC system when checking everything. That said,

Did you verify that BOTH of your radiator/condenser fans are operating at full speed? Can you feel heat being rejected from the condenser?
Is your car "piddling?" In other words, is condensate dripping from underneath the [passenger side] of the car?

 

Right, 50 psi is appropriate for full AC load when 90°F outside. That's why I stopped without actually charging.

I didn't verify the fans were operating, or if the condenser was radiating heat. I also don't know if there was dripping underneath.