If this couldn't be more tempting I see this car listed by two different individuals for 13k and 10.5k respectively. Oh and it has a rebuilt title. Tal about a long list of reasons for being a hard no.

 

Changed the oil on my wife's Forester today, and once again I find myself regretting not getting the Fumoto Oil Drain valve years before. I have it on both the Subby and the Infiniti, and every time I use it I feel amazed how efficient it is.

If this inspires anyone else to look into it for their car... that's my merit badge for the day.

 

I definitely going to buy this for my G. Thank you!

 

I have one too, on the G not the CX5 (interference issue with the oil filter). It does help.

 

you should try Stalhbus oil drain valve.its around 45 bucks
Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve M12x1.25x12mm, steel (set)

 

After like... a month? my car finally runs again. Wasn't that much work but I started it, went on vacation, got sick for 2 weeks, and then finally got back to it recently.
New alternator, valve cover gaskets, radiator hoses, clamps, etc, and Z1 intakes. Still need to head over to the dealer and grab some coolant and bleed it, then test drive. (oh and all the engine plastics and grille obviously)

Sidenote, the Z1 intakes are a bit floppy and the instructions sucked. I didn't like that I had to trim the OEM PCV a tiny bit either. Kind of expected better for the price, but oh well.

Next up is front CVs, then drop the diff and do the whiteline bushings.

 

Since we're mentioning other cars....don't the newer Subaru's have top mount filters?

At least a cursory google search says they do. If so, extract that from the top!

 

Absolutely should do this if you have a top mount filter. Easiest oil changes ever.

 

Yes, they do... filters on top, easily accessible.

And that is very cool, Lego. Nice pump.

 

So if you guys use an oil drain valve or extraction from the top, what do you do about metal shavings? I have a magnetic drain plug that picks that stuff up. I honestly don't mind doing oil changes from below because it gives me an excuse to check out everything else underneath- brakes, suspension, chassis, etc.

 

^^I can see the suction contraption being helpful if doing oil changes often. For once a year, I too like to remove cover from bottom, examine everything.

 

I don't worry about metal shavings. I think Audi and Mercedes dealers both use the extraction method.

 

I duct-tape an old speaker magnet to the bottom of the oil filter - the shavings will stay there (if any) until the next oil change. Also - bearing material isn't ferrous usually so the magnet thing doesn't work so well on that.

I'm content with ramps and both the OEM and ZSpeed undertrays have access doors - takes me 15 minutes. Rather than spend the money on the suction thing I'd rather buy the better ramps...

 

My Race Ramps were expensive, but years later I have zero regrets. These things are great.

 

My man!!!

I used the magnets from my old 7at pan.
Though bearings are not ferrous we see that folks who run magnetic drain bolts pick things up. This could be from rods/crank/cams/vtc/vvel/buckets/etc.
I've seen it pick up and if it pick it up it means they are in constant rotation with the oil which means they do not settle in the pan, maybe heavier ones however things inside the pan can be pretty chaotic so it doesnt surprise.

My question is: Is this metal coming from returning oil after it has made it's way down to the pan or are these not being picked up by the filter properly.

I open all of my oil filters and in almost every engine you see a bit of metal. Even oil analysis record metal.