Will these work for my rims?

 

Yep. 12x1.25 is the correct fit measurement.

 

Nope, not on your IPL wheels. As OEM wheels, they very likely have a flat washer design, and those lock-lugnuts are tapered.

Figure it out, Mike. It will be obvious when you do.

 

How they look when they're not in use. Remember my diode dynamics ones look yellow in the housing when they're not on.

 

Correcto!
These are the kind you need Mike
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2013-INFINITI-EX-FX-G-COUPE-SEDAN-OEM-WHEEL-LOCK-SET-WHEEL-LOCKS-KIT-/121441918535?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c46809e47&vxp=mtr

 

There it is. Jump on it, Mike.

Always that one extra mile, eh Newt?

 

There's a stretch of freakishly gorgeous weather hovering over the Northeast right now and for the upcoming week. Who else is taking this as an opportunity to claybar and wax before winter?



Actually, I prefer to wax my turtles by hand, but this is still a funny gif.

 

Did you go switchback or straight Amber? I've been slacking and haven't purchased the switchbacks yet.

 

Mike I have a set of these if you need them. I'll have to find them but they were on the car when I got it, pulled them off when I went with the Rays and kics

 

Well... look at the reply to quote below..


Uh Oh. So at first I saw John's and Brad's replies and I went ahead and cancelled my order right afterwards, and speaking of the OEM wheel locks I've had them for few months now and never installed them until today, but I was curious about the gorilla wheel-lock nuts as I liked the design better after I saw them on Ahmed's(doublea88) 07-08 18" sport wheels making it seem like they are better and more secure than the OEM wheel lock-nuts.

well, they look good, I mean a bit of yellow is in there but nothing obnoxious I would say, not that I would get really bothered by it.

[/url]DSC_0980 by Mik3G37S, on Flickr

Yeah it was above 90 degrees today without a doubt... thanks for the suggestion John, I think I'll wash my car tomorrow and clay bar it as well,been a while. BTW, very funny John, gotta give it to you I'll hand wax the turtle as well

No, I went straight amber only Chris, because of the dual evil iron man lights, for it to look proper there can't be any other bulb providing any light at the same time other than the iron man itself (except the low beams, of course, but I mainly drive with iron man + fogs on around town) , so I bent one of the prongs on the bulbs so that way they don't stay on together with iron man but only function as a turn signal.


I have had the OEM wheel lock nuts for a while and finally got to install them today, but still going to look into the gorilla locks..

On the side note, I torqued all my lug nuts and lock-nuts to 90 ft-lbs and also on my way back from Queens, I found my passenger's side headlight's highbeam not working which I am assuming must've not been working since I got my headlights done at 180 just didn't use them so obviously didn't notice it not working... hopefully this will be taken care of..

 

Gorilla might make a "mag-style" application but I would definitely not use the tapered nuts on your OEM wheels, there's a couple nightmare threads on the site about what can happen, but since it's only one nut per wheel it would just be a smaller nightmare

 

Absolutely. Imagine 85 pound/feet of torque focused on a contact point about 1mm thick. Good way to crack your rims just by mounting them on the car. That's enough force to bend an iPhone 6.

 

Not sure what you're implying but, they're torqued pretty much within specs a little above since they'll loosen up probably within a week and I'll be checking specs again

 

Just Physics. If you use a tapered lug nut in a lug hole design for a flat washer, all the torque will be applied against a significantly smaller contact point. One of the reasons I went with McGuard Lugnuts was their two-piece design, where the tapered seat is a floating aluminum component.



And in the context of constant force... OMG my shoulders are sore from this marathon clay & wax session. At this point all I've left is the trunk and both bumpers.

However, I'll say this about having a white car that is a benefit: when you're inches away from the car and claying the surface, you can see every little almost-microscopic bit of contamination in the paint, so that you're sure when you're picking it out of the clearcoat. On a darker car, that's a lot harder to see. So although dark cars look more awesome when perfectly waxed and unscratched, cleaning a white car can actually be a more detailed process.

 

Oh yeah John, I ended up using OEM wheel locks... and I've been meaning to start my clay bar session but I just seem to lazy today to do it and can't get my butt out there , uhh I'll try within the next hour

And, yes John constant forced used when waxing or clay barring(?) can be quite exhausting.