19" Coupe Wheels on G37 Sedan?
I'm having a set of coupe wheels powder coated in Hyper Silver with a tinted clear coat. I hope they turn out they way I have it pictured in my head.
I'm still deciding on tire sizes, but know that I want PSS type. The OEM size of 225/245 would be lighter in weight, but not look as aggressive. I don't plan on using spacers and my RWD G is likely going to remain at the stock ride height.
Those of you that went with wider than OEM tires, did you consider the added weight?
I'm still deciding on tire sizes, but know that I want PSS type. The OEM size of 225/245 would be lighter in weight, but not look as aggressive. I don't plan on using spacers and my RWD G is likely going to remain at the stock ride height.
Those of you that went with wider than OEM tires, did you consider the added weight?
Do you notice the difference between a 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of gas?
Unsprung weight has a much bigger effect on how the car feels. It's why people spend big bucks on forged wheels, lightweight brakes, etc.
The rotational mass of a heavier tire would be noticeable. It's why a lot of wheels are designed to have spokes that thin out towards the edge, so you have less rotational mass at the edges. The tires are at the absolute edge...
The rotational mass of a heavier tire would be noticeable. It's why a lot of wheels are designed to have spokes that thin out towards the edge, so you have less rotational mass at the edges. The tires are at the absolute edge...
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 335
From: Maryland
Unsprung weight has a much bigger effect on how the car feels. It's why people spend big bucks on forged wheels, lightweight brakes, etc.
The rotational mass of a heavier tire would be noticeable. It's why a lot of wheels are designed to have spokes that thin out towards the edge, so you have less rotational mass at the edges. The tires are at the absolute edge...
The rotational mass of a heavier tire would be noticeable. It's why a lot of wheels are designed to have spokes that thin out towards the edge, so you have less rotational mass at the edges. The tires are at the absolute edge...
Give it that sporty look, not like a banker's sedan with the OEMs.
I like how the bore needs no adapters and fits nice without undue NVH.
(Aftermarkets speak for themselves and 'almost' always look great.)
Sean
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 217
Likes: 3
From: Chicago, IL
Unsprung weight has a much bigger effect on how the car feels. It's why people spend big bucks on forged wheels, lightweight brakes, etc.
The rotational mass of a heavier tire would be noticeable. It's why a lot of wheels are designed to have spokes that thin out towards the edge, so you have less rotational mass at the edges. The tires are at the absolute edge...
The rotational mass of a heavier tire would be noticeable. It's why a lot of wheels are designed to have spokes that thin out towards the edge, so you have less rotational mass at the edges. The tires are at the absolute edge...
Last edited by 4DOORFUN; Feb 25, 2016 at 08:49 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 89
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From: Northern Califas
Originally Posted by VenomGT9
I have a set for sale if anyone is looking, I love how you all have made them look on the sedans!
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Joined: Jun 2015
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Stupid Question but can I go wider tires on my stock set of Journey wheels? My OEM tire size is P225/50R18.
Also if anyone has a set of 19" coupe or sport wheels and is in the Bay Area, Ca let me know.
Thanks,
Also if anyone has a set of 19" coupe or sport wheels and is in the Bay Area, Ca let me know.
Thanks,
Post a WTB (want to buy) thread in the classifieds for those wheels.
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wife's 2011 19" wheel convertible needs new tires.
been doing some research
we live in Mississippi so no snow.
I was looking at some all seasons.
car has only 30k+ miles and still has factory tires
BRIDGESTONE
POTENZA RE050A
Front: 225/45R19 92W
Rear: 245/40R19 98W XL
I have been looking at the
BF Goodrich g-FORCE COMP 2 A/S Tire
or the Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tire
the bfg's are cheaper but only by about $100 a set
some reviews talk about a high road noise which I don't really want
I see a pretty good deal on DWS06 255/40R19's that I could use in the rear and put 245/40R19 on the front.
actually the rear POTENZA RE050A 245/40R19 98W XL have much more wear left on them and I could just put these on the front.
these are W rated while the DWS06 are Y and tire rack told me it might be better not the have 2 different ratings? any truth?
I would really rather buy a set of 2 for now as the rear probably have at least another 10k left on them.
I would like to try to keep the gas mileage about the same
I was also looking at going to up size and see that
Front: 245/40R19
Rear: 275/35R19
are the most common replacements.
This is for the wife so although I might like the look of the wider tires, I don't want to make it harder to steer or drive.
Any suggestions?
Anybody runs these brands (they are fairly new replacing older series w close to the same name) ?
Anybody done the upsize and can tell me what they think?
Also since we are in the back woods state, I was looking at ordering on line.
tire buyer has best price, but reviews are either 1's or 5's
amazon is close to tire rack, gut tire rack offers free road hazard which may make them the most logical choice
fyi for those looking, most offer cash back sites like ebates to save 4 - 6%
thanks.
been doing some research
we live in Mississippi so no snow.
I was looking at some all seasons.
car has only 30k+ miles and still has factory tires
BRIDGESTONE
POTENZA RE050A
Front: 225/45R19 92W
Rear: 245/40R19 98W XL
I have been looking at the
BF Goodrich g-FORCE COMP 2 A/S Tire
or the Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tire
the bfg's are cheaper but only by about $100 a set
some reviews talk about a high road noise which I don't really want
I see a pretty good deal on DWS06 255/40R19's that I could use in the rear and put 245/40R19 on the front.
actually the rear POTENZA RE050A 245/40R19 98W XL have much more wear left on them and I could just put these on the front.
these are W rated while the DWS06 are Y and tire rack told me it might be better not the have 2 different ratings? any truth?
I would really rather buy a set of 2 for now as the rear probably have at least another 10k left on them.
I would like to try to keep the gas mileage about the same
I was also looking at going to up size and see that
Front: 245/40R19
Rear: 275/35R19
are the most common replacements.
This is for the wife so although I might like the look of the wider tires, I don't want to make it harder to steer or drive.
Any suggestions?
Anybody runs these brands (they are fairly new replacing older series w close to the same name) ?
Anybody done the upsize and can tell me what they think?
Also since we are in the back woods state, I was looking at ordering on line.
tire buyer has best price, but reviews are either 1's or 5's
amazon is close to tire rack, gut tire rack offers free road hazard which may make them the most logical choice
fyi for those looking, most offer cash back sites like ebates to save 4 - 6%
thanks.
If you're running Summer tires now please don't put a pair of All Seasons on the back, not a safe condition. If you want to only buy two tires now and you live in a place where you can run Summers year 'round I'd look for a pair of Summers in the size you want, then get the other pair when the time comes. Some tires getting good reviews would be the Bridgestone SO-4 Pole Position, BFG SportComp2, Conti DW, and the gold standard Michelin Pilot Super SPort. For the price those SO-4s are hard to beat.
If you feel that you'll really need all seasons I would get a complete set of 4.
If you feel that you'll really need all seasons I would get a complete set of 4.
wife's 2011 19" wheel convertible needs new tires.
been doing some research
we live in Mississippi so no snow.
I was looking at some all seasons.
car has only 30k+ miles and still has factory tires
BRIDGESTONE
POTENZA RE050A
Front: 225/45R19 92W
Rear: 245/40R19 98W XL
I have been looking at the
BF Goodrich g-FORCE COMP 2 A/S Tire
or the Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tire
the bfg's are cheaper but only by about $100 a set
some reviews talk about a high road noise which I don't really want
I see a pretty good deal on DWS06 255/40R19's that I could use in the rear and put 245/40R19 on the front.
actually the rear POTENZA RE050A 245/40R19 98W XL have much more wear left on them and I could just put these on the front.
these are W rated while the DWS06 are Y and tire rack told me it might be better not the have 2 different ratings? any truth?
I would really rather buy a set of 2 for now as the rear probably have at least another 10k left on them.
I would like to try to keep the gas mileage about the same
I was also looking at going to up size and see that
Front: 245/40R19
Rear: 275/35R19
are the most common replacements.
This is for the wife so although I might like the look of the wider tires, I don't want to make it harder to steer or drive.
Any suggestions?
Anybody runs these brands (they are fairly new replacing older series w close to the same name) ?
Anybody done the upsize and can tell me what they think?
Also since we are in the back woods state, I was looking at ordering on line.
tire buyer has best price, but reviews are either 1's or 5's
amazon is close to tire rack, gut tire rack offers free road hazard which may make them the most logical choice
fyi for those looking, most offer cash back sites like ebates to save 4 - 6%
thanks.
been doing some research
we live in Mississippi so no snow.
I was looking at some all seasons.
car has only 30k+ miles and still has factory tires
BRIDGESTONE
POTENZA RE050A
Front: 225/45R19 92W
Rear: 245/40R19 98W XL
I have been looking at the
BF Goodrich g-FORCE COMP 2 A/S Tire
or the Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tire
the bfg's are cheaper but only by about $100 a set
some reviews talk about a high road noise which I don't really want
I see a pretty good deal on DWS06 255/40R19's that I could use in the rear and put 245/40R19 on the front.
actually the rear POTENZA RE050A 245/40R19 98W XL have much more wear left on them and I could just put these on the front.
these are W rated while the DWS06 are Y and tire rack told me it might be better not the have 2 different ratings? any truth?
I would really rather buy a set of 2 for now as the rear probably have at least another 10k left on them.
I would like to try to keep the gas mileage about the same
I was also looking at going to up size and see that
Front: 245/40R19
Rear: 275/35R19
are the most common replacements.
This is for the wife so although I might like the look of the wider tires, I don't want to make it harder to steer or drive.
Any suggestions?
Anybody runs these brands (they are fairly new replacing older series w close to the same name) ?
Anybody done the upsize and can tell me what they think?
Also since we are in the back woods state, I was looking at ordering on line.
tire buyer has best price, but reviews are either 1's or 5's
amazon is close to tire rack, gut tire rack offers free road hazard which may make them the most logical choice
fyi for those looking, most offer cash back sites like ebates to save 4 - 6%
thanks.
Depends on the spacers you're using...
Using H&R as an example, they have DRM & DRS style.
DRM is just a bolt on with a second set of studs that you bolt your wheels to. Easy, but potentially problematic, as you now have two sets of nuts to torque down and keep an eye on. You'll need to pull the wheels off to check torque on spacer nuts, as well.
DRS requires you to swap out the studs for longer ones to match the new thickness including the spacer. In order to install, you'll need to pull the caliper off and to the side, pull off rotor, then pound out the stock studs and reinstall the new ones. I used this tool to reinstall and it worked really well: Kastar 938 Wheel Stud Installer Kit
The new studs go up in size every 10mm, so if you're using 15 or 20mm spacers, there is no need to swap, but if you go up to 25 you'll need longer ones.
Is it a pain? A little bit. But it's worth the piece of mind, IMO.
Using H&R as an example, they have DRM & DRS style.
DRM is just a bolt on with a second set of studs that you bolt your wheels to. Easy, but potentially problematic, as you now have two sets of nuts to torque down and keep an eye on. You'll need to pull the wheels off to check torque on spacer nuts, as well.
DRS requires you to swap out the studs for longer ones to match the new thickness including the spacer. In order to install, you'll need to pull the caliper off and to the side, pull off rotor, then pound out the stock studs and reinstall the new ones. I used this tool to reinstall and it worked really well: Kastar 938 Wheel Stud Installer Kit
The new studs go up in size every 10mm, so if you're using 15 or 20mm spacers, there is no need to swap, but if you go up to 25 you'll need longer ones.
Is it a pain? A little bit. But it's worth the piece of mind, IMO.
I just bought some coupe wheels and will be dropping on the Eibach springs. (2012 G37S Sport Sedan) I need to get some spacers (thinking 20mm front / 15mm rear) and have been looking at the bolt-on kits.
But is the above saying that I could just get the metal spacers and use the factory studs without swapping them for longer studs? In short, could I save some money by getting just the version 1 spacers that you just slide onto the OEM studs? I already have to get new TPMS sensors and I'm trying not to overspend since there's about 20 other mods I want to buy.
The general rule is that you have enough thread contact with the standard studs when you compromise up to 5mm. More than that, and you need longer studs.