Hello - the back up camera on my G37 has started acting up. When I put the car into reverse it will start with a clear image but quickly deteriorates into a snowy image, like an old tv that’s lost signal. I replaced the camera and the new one is doing pretty much the same thing.

Has anyone got any advice? All the wiring seems sound with no visible fraying anywhere. All other electrics seem fine also. Image attached also. Thank you.

 

1) Are any other display images "snowy" or only the camera image?

2) Where did you source the replacement camera? This may/ not make a difference as your car is JDM-spec. For some systems, there are some small differences.

ON USDM cars WITH NAVIGATION the camera control unit is incorporated within the AV headunit whereas non-NAV cars have a external camera module located in the trunk. I do not know if JDM-spec cars use the same setup.

That all said, I would recommend you check your trunk area for any electronic modules- if they are there they will be under the floor trim pieces. I would double check the electrics- especially in the flex boot- for proper continuity (especially the image signal wire), power and ground/ shield and if those results are good, then the issue points to the headunit (or external CCU, if applicable).

Hope some of this makes sense/ helps.

 

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate you taking time to help.

1) Just the rear camera is doing this.
2) The replacement is taken from a scraped G37, exact same part number etc, all fittings the same…

To 100% clarify this is an imported 2008 370GT Skyline from Japan. But I’m told they’re the same as the G37, just badged differently. (The scrapped car was the same, not sure of year though).

This has a factory fitted nav, useless though as it’s Japanese. The trunk flex boot is fine and I’ve jiggled that thing like it owes me money the head unit is working fine in all other functions.

im wondering is it a voltage thing. I got the battery replaced but this issue happened 4/5 months after the battery was replaced. But when the camera comes on it’s ok and then whites out. When I fitted it first it was great, that was a day ago. Then it got a bit fuzzy and 24 hours later it’s like how the picture shows.

 

Yes, technically, it is 99% the same car, however, there are some differences when it comes to USDM, JDM, GCC, and EUC/ EUA models.

Based on your symptoms, it appears the headunit might be the issue. I would still check for proper ground and voltage. A good multimeter should be able to show voltage fluctuations. If it as you suspect, a voltage issue, then the headunit is the problem as that unit supplies power to the camera.

 

Ok cool - where should I check exactly and what voltage should I be expecting. I’m new to this, but I’m fairly technical so I’m sure I can at least understand what to do if given some direction.

thanks again

 

See this post. It labels the four (4) wires at the camera and what values you should read.

Keep in mind that testing should be done KEY ON/ ENGINE OFF, BRAKE SET and GEAR in REVERSE.

 

Ok great - I’ll look at that, and just to confirm: in my case I don’t need to be looking a CCU in my car, right? Lots of mentions of one in that thread.

 

Assuming that both head units are similar, no. Only non-NAV models have a external CCU.

 

Hello again - so I probed the voltage a was getting a steady 6v (6.13v to be precise).

The picture still was flickering, not as bad as the image I posted but was heading that direction. I’m baffled as with to do next. Could this be a fuse thing, or could the car battery the got replaced mid October be the culprit. It’s a CCA 600 RC110 (I don’t think so but just putting it out there).

Would you know any further things to look for?

 

If the camera is receiving good power and ground, the issue then points to either a bad signal wire (unlikely) or a issue with the headunit. I doubt it is the camera itself as you already replaced same. Nor is it the battery. A bad battery would create other problems with the electrics, not just a faulty camera image.

I would run a continuity test on the signal and shield wires FROM the camera connection in the decklid to the headunit. IF continuity is good (0Ω) on both wires then the headunit is the problem (rather the internal CCU).

 

Can give that a try.

just to confirm: this is just on the connector in the lid, I don’t need to go digging to try get to the AV unit itself?

and do you have any advice how to isolate the pins in the connector, so I’m not touching the incorrect ones?

 

In order to test continuity, you need to isolate both ends of a circuit (wire)- from stem to stern, so to speak. So, technically, from the decklid to the headunit. The odds of the signal and/or shield wires being compromised is minimal so it may not be worth the hassle of digging into the center stack.

In all honesty, I would lean toward the headunit being the issue as these units are getting quite old. Yours is 17-years-old. You have two options: see about getting a used replacement headunit (from Japan) or perhaps look into a more modern, aftermarket system.

Wish I had a more simple solution for you...

 

Oh dude you’ve been really helpful.

Today I took the trunk apart and found the camera control unit. I’m actually heading to Japan on Friday, and will hopefully pick one up there. I also live in New Zealand and there is a decent amount of these cars around with a decent chance of picking one up at a scrap yard also. Pics attached.

out of interest, do the Infinity G37’s have a wing mirror camera on the passenger side?

 

Based on that finding, now you can run a continuity test on the signal and shield wires from the camera connector to the CCU. This will test the integrity of the wiring in the decklid flex boot. I seriously doubt there is a wiring issue further upstream. I believe the issue is either the CCU, the AV headunit, or wiring.

None of the USDM G37's have wing (mirror) cameras- on either side. The more upscale models like the older M's and FX's and newer Q50/60's brought the wing cameras, winkers, and power folding options to the USDM.

 

That’s one of the differences then, my one does and when I took it to an AV shop the technician explained that it should have a separate camera control unit if it has more than one camera. That’s when I thought it was worth doing some digging and there it was.

I took it apart and the capacitors all looked fine, but I agree with you that it’s looking increasingly likely that this is the failure point. Removing the unit causes the AV system to act as if it never had a camera to begin with, when selecting reverse.

All in all I’ve had fun exploring the car and have learned something new.