I apologize if this has been covered or discussed before. I have searched all over the g35 and g37 forums looking for help locating my camera control unit. I have a replacement I bought used and was trying to do the replacement myself. Found some help on a g35 forum saying it was located in the trunk on the right hand side in between the carpet and the side panel. I've spent over and hour or so ripping all the carpet out of the trunk area and tried following wires and all that with no luck. Can anyone please help me? Pictures would also be amazing. Thank you everyone.

 

The CAM and XM SAT Tuner modules are located under the right side trunk finisher panel:


It is not hard to get to, just aggravating as that whole panel has to be removed.

 

ILM-NC G37S
You are the man! Thank you sooooo much! Much appreciated. Car community for the win. Will post updates on the install. Over here in pre winter Ontario, Canada. Got the car all stored away for the snow. But who says you can't wrench in the off season.

Seriously thank you.

 

Found the existing Cam Module and replaced it. Still getting a black screen with guidelines. Thought it was my camera before so I bought a new one off ebay right part number and everything, and no dice. I've checked all common spots the wires could flex and stretch/tear and found no damaged wires. Tried the Hidden diagnostic menu for the camera and it didn't help with anything. So I've replaced the Camera and Control Unit and still nothing. I obviously have checked fuses all before trying to buy expensive parts of course and found no fuse issues. Kinda really scratching my head here everybody......I've seen a post before saying they had the same issue then their mechanic found a loose wiring connection underneath the car??? Would anyone think that could be the case? If so where would that connection be located? Really don't want to take it to the dealership. Thought I had this one licked.

Should i just make another Thread for my backup camera problem??

Thank you all for your wisdom

 

Did you check the wiring in the pass thru boot between the trunk and the decklid?


Pictured above is for sedan. Coupes are the same except the boot is on the left (driver) side. Being that you are getting the guidelines on the display indicate that everything from the CAM module to the center stack is fine. The problem lies between the camera itself and the CAM module.

I would check here first.

 

Yeah I totally understand what you're talking about. When I originally was talking about how I checked for common places that the wires could get damaged i shouldve been more clear and stated I meant i pulled apart all the pass thru grommets and inspected the wires for any damage.

I did all that when I first checked fuses. Hoping it was a simple/inexpensive fix before I dove into throwing out big bucks for parts. Trust me I was sooo wishing it was something simple like that.

Thank you once again for your help and advice.

 

Assuming all of the wires are intact, the next step is to test each wire independently. Do you have a digital multimeter? Disconnect the camera wiring connector- there should be four (4) wires- and test for voltage/continuity accordingly:

RED= 6v (+)
BLACK= shield (acts as 2nd ground)
YELLOW= video signal
WHITE= ground wire (-)

If power and ground are confirmed good, then you disconnect the harness at the CAM module and test the YELLOW signal wire for continuity. If everything checks out good, then diagnostic gets tricky.

 

Yup I'm an hvac tech luckily that's a tool I'm familiar using. Do I have to cut back the insulation on the wires to get at the bare copper to check voltage or continuity or is there another way to check without splicing or stripping wire insulation around the molex camera connection? I've been curious about doing a continuity test on the camera wires but didn't know what other end of the wire feed I needed to check with in relation to the camera connection/molex connector opposite end.

Seen posts about running an independent yellow video wire to the Rca connections inside the center compartment but im trying to avoid doing that if at all possible.

 

You should be able to just probe the male/female terminals/pins at each connector when disconnected. Sometimes I use a small straight pin to test female terminal circuits.

Power and ground are the easiest to test as they can be conducted right there under the decklid. Just unplug the camera and verify.

The camera is directly connected to the CAM module so that would be the opposite end of the camera harness. Do you have the FSM for the AV system? That will show which wires to probe.

I originally ran that yellow wire years ago before I did my AV swap. It was/is a jury-rigged means to a end, but years later it still works. It is not likely a solution to your current issue.

I am attaching the following pics from the 2008 Coupe factory manual for general overview:

 

You are amazing! Appreciate all the help. I have a question about testing the power wire and ground wire before I check the continuity of the video wire. Will I be able to do this check without the car in reverse or will the module still be sending the 6v to the camera molex connector with the car in neutral with the ebrake on or without the car even being on? How would you suggest I run this test? One lead on the hot wire (red) and one lead on the ground wire (white)??? Hopefully showing 6v?

I get what youre saying about just probing the pins in the connectors with my multimeter leads for taking readings. Easily done like you said for the power and ground at the Cam connector with the Module still connected. Might be a little tricky to reach the module connector and the cam connector with each lead for a continuity/resistance test but im sure if you say it can be done i will give it the ol' college try.

Btw the pictures you have been sharing have helped extremely. Thanks again for your time

 

If you have a helper (that you really trust), easiest way would be to have the car running, in reverse and check for 6V. The CAM module will only send 6V to the camera when in REVERSE.

Worst case (or you do not have a trusted helper), set key ON, engine OFF, parking brake SET, and gear in REVERSE, then check for 6V.

Ground is easy to test- just run a continuity test from the ground wire at the camera connector to solid metal on the car. Same test applies to the SHIELD wire.

 

Had a feeling the red wire would only get 6v power only when in REVERSE. Ideally makes sense.

Unfortunately I don't have any buddies that drive standard and that I trust with my baby lol. I could tell them to turn it on with the ebrake engaged e
and put it in reversed, id still be pretty nervous.

Will get back out to where I store the car soon and give this all a try. As always thank you kindly.

Stay posted lol

 

Okay here are my findings.

Tested voltage on Red power wire(with car on and in reverse) - no voltage found
Tested Continuity White ground wire - was good
Tested Continuity Black shield ground wire - was also good
Tested Continuity Yellow video wire - also good
Tested Continuity Red power wire - nothing

So with that said I'm assuming I wasn't getting 6v to the power wire because of a dead short in the red power wire......I think. If I'm correct what would be better to do?......(1)unravel all the shrink wrap and electrical tape and trace the dead short all over the trunk of the car.......(2)or I also thought would it be quicker and simpler to just not even bother to make a mess and find the short instead just run a new individual 18g or smaller lvt(low voltage) wire and splice into the existing power wire.

Maybe I'm not even hitting the nail on the head here but all my limited electrical theory has me convinced the issue is short circuit somewhere in the Red power wire. IF i didn't get 6v at the red power wire when i checked for voltage but I had Continuity between each end of the red power wire i would THEN assume it was a power source issue and maybe blame the cam module. But since the red power wire did not have Continuity I have nothing other than to believe its a dead short issue and the cam module is working fine.

What should I do now???????

All help has been greatly appreciated thus far. Thank you everyone for your wisdom and advice.

 

You are correct. If there is no continuity between both ends of the same circuit, then there is a break somewhere.

Repeat the test (car ON, in REVERSE) but this time run a jumper wire straight from the CCU to the camera. If the camera image comes up then you know you have a break in the red wire and can go from there. In other words:

 

Would you recommend leaving a couple inches of the existing power wire to splice in a new one to at both connectors or if I can get my hands on the proper tool to pop out the existing wire from the molex(plastic connector) should I try and permanently install the new wire into the factory molex connector? Might be a pain? Or were you just thinking roughly splice one in for testing purposes and if it works maybe permanently install the new wire into the factory connector if it works out?

Also I was gonna use typical thermostat lvt wire since its handy to come by being im an Hvac tech and its usually 18g wire. Would that be fine? I use it for 24v circuits. So thinking im only using 6v i would assume it would be fine. Would you suggest a different gauge of wire?

Thanks a lot as always