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Plastidip that dipstick handle and call it a day. About the only thing Plastidip is good for, LOL.
But seriously, just paint that yellow loop black. It will look a lot better. Or if you really want to get creative, find a matching rattlecan color to match the teal in your FSTB brackets. That could look interesting. And if you don't like it, then go black anyway.
And you can start looking at nuts & bolts hardware. SS or Ti hardware goes a long way to dressing up the engine bay, and there are tons of options to choose from.
[QUOTE=Rochester;4298426]Plastidip that dipstick handle and call it a day. About the only thing Plastidip is good for, LOL.
But seriously, just paint that yellow loop black. It will look a lot better.
That's actually what i decided after searching online yesterday, not a fan of z1 or any other dipsticks so ill just paint it black ( Oh god, no plastidip, i absolutely hate that stuff lol).
Saw a nice VMS radiator cap cover in black that i loved but they dont ship to canada (only Usa and Afghanistan lol, no joke...). I actually ordered the NRG one you linked. After much searching i ended up liking that over Z1s or any other options i found ( the top is just a sticker so it can be plain if i don't like it or can take it off, i do like the black finish and texture on it a lot)
i did the bolts a long time ago (from Z1) to get rid of my rusty bolts and clean up the gunk that was in the engine bay when i bought the car. My only issue was i ordered gun metal (to match my painted factory rims) and its actually gray/silver lol... I may just paint the *not gunmetal* bits to actually be GunMetal for the bolt kit i have, and order a few titanium burnt ones for just select areas Good pic to show what i was dealing with grime wise Ah clean and not disgusting =) Dont ask about the bunny, i like the bunny lol) Its the one silly decal that found its way onto my car and its staying even after i get a carbon fiber rad cover ( along with CF engine cover and CF battery+clutch covers on the top corners of engine bay).
I need to clean the rust proofing off the shock towers one day as well ( yay white engine bays).
The only teal i thought of was painting my shock towers real but now I'm just thinking of cleaning them up instead.
Anyhow, appreciate the ideas and the cap you linked (which i bought lol). Ill probably order all my carbon fiber in the winter and then hopefully have some nice pics to post then.
I like the bunny. IDK what it is, but I like it anyway.
You're not going to like what comes of trying to paint the fender washer collars. I mean, you might, but I wouldn't bet on it. Just buy ones that you like. You're right that gun-metal would look better than gray. The gray looks odd, IMO.
On a side note, the very first time I saw P2M brackets, I had that gotta-have-it moment. Just throwing that out there.
Oh damn you (more money to spend now lol), those clamps are fricken gorgeous... Actually reasonably priced for how nice they are imo. It took a whole 3 seconds of me seeing the black ones to decide i must have them lol. Ill probably do the clamps in the winter time when she is stored and i'm bored.
Ah i guess you have tried to paint your bolt kit, sorry to hear it didnt turn out to your liking. Eh damn.. i guess ill just buy new washers for them.
I really dislike painting and ill be upset if i take the time to do it and then hate them later. Appreciate the heads up and saving me hours of time.
Nothing special or never done before, but I installed a Takeda Attack front mount intake and am happy with it so far. No more heat-soaked R2C SRI, and IMO it's better quality than the Z1 kit and was more reasonably priced...not saying custom silicone is cheap, but half of the Z1 intake was silicone and I wasn't a fan in addition to the issues I ran into with it. The Takeda kit looks clean installed which is my favorite part along with aFe's dry filter media. Yes I did trim the radiator support with a Dremel, it made no sense not to trim that and to leave the elbow constricted. I dig how it's securely mounted too compared to some other kits I've used and seen. It was a PIA to have to reinstall the OEM intake resonators (and pay for 2 new OEM PCV intake hoses) and was a very tight fit but I couldn't find a set of silicone breather hoses that would fit with the kit even after trying to make it work trimming a pack of the Z1 PCV intake hoses.
Dyno tune also finally scheduled for Aug 2nd at a local tuning shop, National Speed. Their tuner specializes in UpRev and I want the ability to edit the tune in the future so I went with UpRev. They have a good amount of tuning experience with VQ's so I'm curious to see what he can get from just the intake and HKS exhaust. Not expecting anything other than improved throttle and ARC features, getting it done now so I can re-tune it when I go forced induction.
Nothing special or never done before, but I installed a Takeda Attack front mount intake and am happy with it so far. No more heat-soaked R2C SRI, and IMO it's better quality than the Z1 kit and was more reasonably priced...not saying custom silicone is cheap, but half of the Z1 intake was silicone and I wasn't a fan in addition to the issues I ran into with it. The Takeda kit looks clean installed which is my favorite part along with aFe's dry filter media. Yes I did trim the radiator support with a Dremel, it made no sense not to trim that and to leave the elbow constricted. I dig how it's securely mounted too compared to some other kits I've used and seen. It was a PIA to have to reinstall the OEM intake resonators (and pay for 2 new OEM PCV intake hoses) and was a very tight fit but I couldn't find a set of silicone breather hoses that would fit with the kit even after trying to make it work trimming a pack of the Z1 PCV intake hoses.
Dyno tune also finally scheduled for Aug 2nd at a local tuning shop, National Speed. Their tuner specializes in UpRev and I want the ability to edit the tune in the future so I went with UpRev. They have a good amount of tuning experience with VQ's so I'm curious to see what he can get from just the intake and HKS exhaust. Not expecting anything other than improved throttle and ARC features, getting it done now so I can re-tune it when I go forced induction.
This one right?
i always thought the design where the two pipes share one filter was kind of neat tbh.
@TheDevilsG the single tube filter is at its best when you have an aftermarket mesh grill that you can see through. The normal intakes don’t sit symmetrical. The driver side always looks crooked (just the way it is).
i always thought the design where the two pipes share one filter was kind of neat tbh.
Yep that’s it, except that looks like the model for the 370z. The G37 model is the exact same but uses a larger cylindrical filter vs the elliptic cylindrical filter on that one for the Z. I’m a fan of the design also. I do wish they would have designed the ends of the pipes where the filter attaches a little better, for the G37 model. They should have put ridges on the end of the little trumpet tubes/where it tapers out to match the size of the filter, or made the tapered end longer so it won’t risk slipping off. I had to wipe the ends of my filter down so it wouldn’t slide around at all bc of how oily it was when I opened it, like many others. I thought about sanding it down a little too to give it more grip but the worm clamps held fine after a good cleaning. The Z model looks like the filter opening matches the piping size so I’m guessing they don’t have that issue.
Yep that’s it, except that looks like the model for the 370z. The G37 model is the exact same but uses a larger cylindrical filter vs the elliptic cylindrical filter on that one for the Z. I’m a fan of the design also. I do wish they would have designed the ends of the pipes where the filter attaches a little better, for the G37 model. They should have put ridges on the end of the little trumpet tubes/where it tapers out to match the size of the filter, or made the tapered end longer so it won’t risk slipping off. I had to wipe the ends of my filter down so it wouldn’t slide around at all bc of how oily it was when I opened it, like many others. I thought about sanding it down a little too to give it more grip but the worm clamps held fine after a good cleaning. The Z model looks like the filter opening matches the piping size so I’m guessing they don’t have that issue.
gotcha, good input. I didn't know about the slipping issue if you don't clean it well first time. Good info to know for any of us that buy it, thank you.
I do really like that idea of sanding it a tad to give it a little something to grip onto versus a smooth pipe. A good idea just to never have to think twice about slipping and having to remove the bumper to check!
Insurance check en route. Prob going back to an XLR. Also I have broken ribs and or sternum. ER in Austin denied me due to overcrowding of Delta Burke Insurance check en route. Prob going back to an XLR Dodge Ram needs new bumper. I need new vehicle Good night Blackie Chan. Dont take your eyes off the road in Rush Hour
I'm mad that I didn't have it towed home to swap the stock rims and tires back on.
I'm mad that I didn't have it towed home to swap the stock rims and tires back on.
Damn.... Sorry for your loss. That looks brutal, like life changing injuries brutal. One of those crashes you are heart broken your pride and joy is gone but to walk away with your life is never a small token.
Insurance better not deny you... otherwise wtf do we pay insurance in the first place?!!!!
Always have full coverage even if you own the title
Originally Posted by TheDevilsG
Damn.... Sorry for your loss. That looks brutal, like life changing injuries brutal. One of those crashes you are heart broken your pride and joy is gone but to walk away with your life is never a small token.
Insurance better not deny you... otherwise wtf do we pay insurance in the first place?!!!!
The RAM I smashed had minimal damage primarily to their chrome bumper. I think I broke my sternum and ribs but the hospital won't let me in due to Covid overcrowding. Got $12,715 for a car I paid $9k for. I'm going to wait a few months and save up a few more G's before buying a car bc they are all overpriced right now.
Still in heaps of pain going on 3 weeks though.
I may get another a G, go back to an XLR, or try a 370 Touring (I need leather)
All the ones I can pay cash for have 100k plus miles and 80k is my limit despite knowing the G is solid amd is probably good for 300k miles.
This one is tempting me due to low mileage but for that price there are other vehicles I would rather own
I'd rather get this for just a bit more.... IPL G
update:
Just purchased this ...
2010 370Z with 30k miles.
Now I have a $200 car payment though ughCarvana had it listed as a manual and i couldn't find any with leather, but this one. I may cancel over it not being a Stick Shift . Debating..... Went from G coupe to a Z. Delivery in 10 days... So sick of being carless.
update:
Ended up buying this yesterday.for $25800 Pick her up on tomorrow
Yay Manual!🔥🔥🔥
2015 Sport Tech w/25,k milesHard to find with Sport package and Nav and 6MT
DAT ***
Need to pay off 11k loan before I even consider any mods. I honestly don't think it really needs any cause she's a beauty.
An 08 low mileage black on black XLR was tempting me however once I read that each headlight and taillight costs $3000 and considering that this 2015 is 7 years newer made that decision s no brainer
Last edited by G37 Deep; Aug 26, 2021 at 05:42 AM.
I mean, you might, but I wouldn't bet on it. Just buy ones that you like. You're right that gun-metal would look better than gray. The gray looks odd, IMO.
