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I'm going to do a little digging into this. It's interesting. We do have to remember though that the gtr motor probably has different tolerances though.
I've been running Mobil 0w-40 in my 2011 for about 3000 miles now. Prior to this I used M1 Ext. Performance 5w-30. My car has 96k miles as of right now. I have no submitted a oil sample for analysis yet but I have noticed since switching to M1 0w-40 I have had to top off the oil about 1.5-2 quarts already and I've only put about 2,800 miles on the 0w-40.
I go to Mexico pretty often on the weekends so I told myself I'll just start doing 3,500 mile oil changes.
When I was running M1 Ext. Perf. 5w-30 I would change the oil every 5k and would only have to top it off 0.5 quarts max.
Now with 0w-40 I'm barely 3k miles into the oil change and already topped off nearly 2 quarts of oil.
Only variable that has changed since switching to 0w-40 was that I got my car ecutek tuned.
Well, had my first test. Not happy. Iron levels extremely high. Had car since new, 26k miles at this moment.
It is tuned with few bolt ons. Anybody can provide some insight?
The only thing that comes to mind is the tune, most tuners dont concentrate as much on the low end and daily driving parameters of the tune due to everyone being concentrated on top numbers. With this being said it is possible the engine is pinging slightly and is richer than factory during it's daily commute. This pinging causes the piston to shake at TDC putting a strain on the piston/cylinder/rings. Add a bit of fuel dilution to this and you're running thinner oil that decomposes quickly. IMO would not wait that long for the next interval.
New results are in. I contacted Seb, because my thoughts that it was tune related, but he assured it is not tune. He made few timing adjustments, my car feel much torquier in lower rpms.. And we see improvement in oil results..
So I don't know who to blame...
Originally Posted by BULL
The only thing that comes to mind is the tune, most tuners dont concentrate as much on the low end and daily driving parameters of the tune due to everyone being concentrated on top numbers. With this being said it is possible the engine is pinging slightly and is richer than factory during it's daily commute. This pinging causes the piston to shake at TDC putting a strain on the piston/cylinder/rings. Add a bit of fuel dilution to this and you're running thinner oil that decomposes quickly. IMO would not wait that long for the next interval.
New results are in. I contacted Seb, because my thoughts that it was tune related, but he assured it is not tune. He made few timing adjustments, my car feel much torquier in lower rpms.. And we see improvement in oil results..
So I don't know who to blame...
Huge improvement, tuner can say whatever they want however to fully tune a vehicle an individual has to spend hours doing so and replicating as many parameters as possible. He would have to focus on what the car mainly does and not just some cruise, wot, etc. For an example a parameter most tuners are unable to do are cold starts since most of the times the car is already warmed up. Im happy to see these numbers go down.
My reccomendation is to change your filter half way through the interval as filters get saturated quickly, this way it will give a chance of any old oil to filter.
I plan to do my first oil change with this car. Have had dealer do the first two oil changes since owning the car for a year now. I am going to try 5W-30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability based on it being the "best" oil per the following blog where I can actually purchase over the counter: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
It's $17.88 for 5 quarts at Walmart and the 1 quart is $5.77. Not bad at all. I plan to do a lab test after 5k on it. I want to change the oil tomorrow so don't have anything to do the current lab test plus I don't even know what kind of Synthetic oil the dealer last used.
For what it's worth, I haven't ever sent oil off to get analyzed, but I have been using Mobil1 0w-40 with either a kn or m1 filter (depending on the sale) and my engine (160kmi) has been noticeably quieter since the change. Oil lasts a bit longer, I've also noticed slightly better fuel mileage. I'm not a tech and have no idea why any of this is, just posting my results!
From: Chicago home of the 2016 world-champion Cubs!
Originally Posted by dirtnapper56
For what it's worth, I haven't ever sent oil off to get analyzed, but I have been using Mobil1 0w-40 with either a kn or m1 filter (depending on the sale) and my engine (160kmi) has been noticeably quieter since the change. Oil lasts a bit longer, I've also noticed slightly better fuel mileage. I'm not a tech and have no idea why any of this is, just posting my results!
Mobil 1 is good oil. Damn good oil. People argue about which is the best, but regardless of which is THE best, Mobil 1 is really good oil.
Fact is, these days even any decent "regular" oil is darned good, and any full synthetic is even better. But Mobil One is one of the better synthetic oils.
For me, oil analysis isn't so much about what's the very best oil for my G37, it is more about how my car is doing and also picking a sane oil change interval. My car had 38,000 miles on it when I got it, and I wanted to have the oil analyzed to see if there were issues that would show up from the unknown level of maintenance that the car got before I owned it. My first analysis had a bit more iron in it than we like to see, and that tells me maybe the oil wasn't changed quite as often as it should have been in the time before I owned the car. But iron was only SLIGHTLY high, so maybe while the car didn't get the level of care that I lavish on it now, it wasn't actually abused. Iron levels came down after that first oil change.
I only put about 3,000 miles a year on my car - I'm retired and so there is no commute- and from oil analysis I can see that one synthetic oil change per year is just fine for me. The analysis that comes back on my one-year-old/3,000 mile oil shows it is just fine; no water, no fuel, no antifreeze, no particulates, good acid-buffering still left in the additives, and viscosity, flashpoint etc is all great.
In addition to oil changes, I also have my cooling system flushed every 3 years, the brake fluid and power steering fluid flushed as well. I had the transmission and AWD transfer case flushed and had the oil exchanged in all the differentials when I got the car at 38,000 mi and will repeat that after I've put another 40,000 on it. The local Infiniti dealer calls that a "Driveline Service" and charges a little under $1,000 for that, and for something done every 40,000 miles that seems good value. The dealer here is also competitive price-wise on synthetic oil change cost, but I have a trusted local shop for that kind of thing, it's a pain to drive all the way to the dealership for an oil change, but for the "driveline service" I think it makes sense -
I tend to keep cars for more than 15 years.....
My G37x is a 2013. According to Consumer Reports the 2012 and 2013 G37's have the best reliability of the G models; it's interesting to see that the new "Q" models aren't nearly as reliable. In fact they are little better than BMW, Audi or Mercedes in this class of car, and that is not saying much. The Germans are cool cars but I don't have the money to maintain such a vehicle. They cost a lot to keep running.
The G37 is such a great combination of fun-to-drive, nice interior with excellent reliability- it's just hard to beat for the price.
Dude. If you ever decide to sell your G37x before your 15 year time horizon, let us know. You're doing serious overkill on your fluid changes.
Edit: You're in Chicago? Never mind. I imagine it may be loosely connected iron oxide in not too long.
Originally Posted by milosz
In addition to oil changes, I also have my cooling system flushed every 3 years, the brake fluid and power steering fluid flushed as well. I had the transmission and AWD transfer case flushed and had the oil exchanged in all the differentials when I got the car at 38,000 mi and will repeat that after I've put another 40,000 on it. The local Infiniti dealer calls that a "Driveline Service" and charges a little under $1,000 for that, and for something done every 40,000 miles that seems good value.
That was a good read, milosz. I like to think I take reasonable maintenance care of my 6MT, but you're the gold standard, buddy.
My car had 3,900 miles on the clock when I bought it less than a year old in 2012, and has 45k miles on it today. I put an average of 5,000 per year on the car, less than that year over year. Been using Penzoil full synthetic the entire time, changing the oil myself once a year. All other fluids (brake, coolant, PS, clutch, tranny & diff) have each been replaced twice in the last 8 years.
Whoever gets my car when the day comes, assuming it survives unmolested... I feel pretty good about it. Take care of the moment while it's yours, and pay it forward when it's time.
I would like to see more of these results along with the oil you're using. I'm leaning more and more towards Mobil for my next one. My car had a weird metal shaving problem that went away on it's own. After a couple of filter changes. This was after the Gallery was done so I suspected higher psi possibly could have knocked some stuff loose.
Same here, this thread is by far one of the most important threads VQ owners should read. I mean look at the difference Dzionassi had from the retune.
Keeping these levels in check will be the key to longevity, as metal wear increases so does the blow by and once it starts producing more blow by if that is not filtered out these oils will lower octane increasing pinging, adding to the blow by while emptying the crank case etc.
It ends up being a stupid domino effect.
If it's not that then gallery
if it's not that then bad cats that richen your AFRs
Either way all of these will come out in the analysis.
Talking about picking a sane oil change interval... just dropped off my most recent sample in the mail. I definitely didn't hit the 10,500 recommended.