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I'm starting to follow this thread.
liqui Molly is the oil used in my ride. As far as results I have no idea,yet, where could i get this done here in Calgary...(Canada btw). I will look it up.
Metro Tech Systems will do a used oil analysis locally.
Well. Geeked out on this thread for way too long.
Started by thinking, "why are these fools spending $20+ on oil analysis?" Finished on Blackstone's site ordering the test kit.
Why not, right? I asked what oil the previous owner had used and when the last service was performed. But, now I'd like to see the data on whatever it happened to be.
Now, the question still remains for me: $0.78 lawnmower oil or $13/qt Hyper Platinum Unicorn Tears? Decisions must be made!
Oil's used starting from left to right
Eneos 5w30 Gf-5
Same ^
Eneos 5w30 Gf-4
Same ^
Same ^
Penzoil Ultra 5w30 (Gf-4 I belive)
I moved to Eneos because PU became unavailable at local walmarts. I tried Eneos and stuck with it ever since.
Since my 4th run, I was told to note of my silicon levels and to inspect my air filtration system (specifically the air filters). Wear levels has since been going in the wrong direction. I'm beginning to worry that there is a leak somewhere causing unfiltered air to get it. I supposed that this is starting to cause the bearings to wear (see increase in lead).
Does anyone know how I should begin addressing this issue? It's worth noting that I'm using k&n filters on and OEM intake with OEM accordian MAF tubes. I once swapped to tubes out for the HPS high flow smooth post MAF tubes (for less than 5k miles) a logn time ago and have revert to OEM.
Also, i discovered a small external coolant leak this past oil change and blackstone confirmed that it was not internal.
Last edited by jujubii; Mar 18, 2016 at 03:25 AM.
Reason: spelling
K&N filters are terrible at removing fine silicone particles (this has been studied before) - the best to keep your levels down is to use oiled paper and replace annually.
Originally Posted by jujubii
Hi everyone,
here's my contribution to the thread.
Oil's used starting from left to right
Eneos 5w30 Gf-5
Eneos 5w30 Gf-5
Eneos 5w30 Gf-4
Eneos 5w30 Gf-4
Eneos 5w30 Gf-4
Penzoil Ultra 5w30 (Gf-4 I belive)
I moved to Eneos because PU became unavailable at local walmarts. I tried Eneos and stuck with it ever since.
Since my 4th run, I was told to note of my silicon levels and to inspect my air filtration system (specifically the air filters). They've seemed fine but it seems to be going in the wrong direction. I'm beginning to worry that there is a leak somewhere causing unfiltered air to get it. I supposed that this is starting to cause the bearings to wear (see increase in lead).
Does anyone know how I should begin addressing this issue? It's worth noting that I'm using k&n filters on and OEM intake with OEM accordian MAF tubes. I once swapped to tubes out for the HPS smooth tubes (for
K&N filters are terrible at removing fine silicone particles (this has been studied before) - the best to keep your levels down is to use oiled paper and replace annually.
Thanks for your suggestion, it's definitely something I should be looking out for. I was thinking about doing a OCI run with different air filters. Could you possibly suggest a product?
Thanks for your suggestion, it was what I was looking for. I was thinking about doing a OCI run with different air filters. Could you possibly suggest a product?
Also, i keep on getting cut out in my last post. I mean to end it with "I ran the HPS high flow post MAF tubes for
Genuine Nissan/Infiniti filters are the only ones I know that are a proper oiled paper product. Every other filter I've seen is dry paper. The only exception being a few DENSO filters I've used, but those are not available for this model or are hard to find.
'11 G37 5700 miles with Mobil 1 0W40 and Fram Ultra oil filter
Hi all,
Always been quite interested in UOA after visiting BITOG, but never took the time to actually send a sample back to them until now
Short story - I bought the car with 28k miles used with clean carfax, but later found out from an Infiniti dealer (that was performing warranty work for me) that the oil was not changed in the first 18k which resulted in engine codes P0011 and P0300. The front timing covers and rocker covers were repaired.
Anywho, this UOA is from the 5700 miles of usage with Mobil 1 0W40 and a Fram Ultra XG6607 oil filter. I am currently at 40k miles and am pretty happy with the results. I am using the AFE Pro Dry S (31-10196) air filters to minimize filter maintenance and it seems that my silicon levels are not overly high.
I don't know how to upload my report but I ran Mobil 1 EP with Mobil 1 Filter and ran the report at 13500kms or 8500 miles and they said I was good for another 3000kms so basically 10,000 miles I am good.. The oil did not burn at all as I never needed to top up..
My engine had 85000 miles on it during the test..
I used to change at 3500 with synthetic with no hesitation. After this report I am going to 10k miles every change.. It might be a tad more for oil and filter but to save 2 trips to get an oil change is the huge kicker here and not to mention the performance of the oil..
I also would like to add if you never ran Royal Purple in your engine.. its ridiculously better than any oil out there.. it is noticeably better then Mobil 1. I would only run it during warm climate and Mobil 1 in winter. I saw a test on youtube freezing oil at -20 or something and Mobil 1 and Amsoil actually flowed ok vs Royal Purple..
I don't know how to upload my report but I ran Mobil 1 EP with Mobil 1 Filter and ran the report at 13500kms or 8500 miles and they said I was good for another 3000kms so basically 10,000 miles I am good.. The oil did not burn at all as I never needed to top up..
My engine had 85000 miles on it during the test..
I used to change at 3500 with synthetic with no hesitation. After this report I am going to 10k miles every change.. It might be a tad more for oil and filter but to save 2 trips to get an oil change is the huge kicker here and not to mention the performance of the oil..
I also would like to add if you never ran Royal Purple in your engine.. its ridiculously better than any oil out there.. it is noticeably better then Mobil 1. I would only run it during warm climate and Mobil 1 in winter. I saw a test on youtube freezing oil at -20 or something and Mobil 1 and Amsoil actually flowed ok vs Royal Purple..
You can take a picture or scan it in, then upload it to a web host or directly here.
Sounds good though, glad your synthetic oil is working out for ya. Which oil filter are you using?
Always been quite interested in UOA after visiting BITOG, but never took the time to actually send a sample back to them until now
Short story - I bought the car with 28k miles used with clean carfax, but later found out from an Infiniti dealer (that was performing warranty work for me) that the oil was not changed in the first 18k which resulted in engine codes P0011 and P0300. The front timing covers and rocker covers were repaired.
Anywho, this UOA is from the 5700 miles of usage with Mobil 1 0W40 and a Fram Ultra XG6607 oil filter. I am currently at 40k miles and am pretty happy with the results. I am using the AFE Pro Dry S (31-10196) air filters to minimize filter maintenance and it seems that my silicon levels are not overly high.
That looks great, I got Mobil 0w30. It isn't as thick as the 0w40, but I think it should work well. I got Purolator One filters as well.I do live in a warmer climate. I just got the car, so it will be a while before I install it though.
K&N filters are terrible at removing fine silicone particles (this has been studied before) - the best to keep your levels down is to use oiled paper and replace annually.
