Whats wrong with the 20-minute oil change? Its ALL THE SAME! I was one of those "Its gotta be Synthetic" people but as soon as I realized it did nothing but SLOW my car down and cost twice as much, I gave it up and just changed my oil sooner than later. Remember 90% of engine damage happens within the first few miles of your drive, let the car and oil get to temperature before you go flying down the highway and you'll be good! O yeh how's the dipstick on the G37, the G35 had a terrible design so its really impossible to tell.

 

Many Jiffy Lubes and 20 minutes oil changes places use recycled oil. It's just cleaned with some additives. In my opinion, you get what you pay for.

 

Everybody seems to have endless "Oil Questions" on every car user forum in existence, many forever searching for the "best erl", some magic answers, etc.

See here for almost anything you might want to know about the slippery stuff that's in every car's innards:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

Yes please stop the oil debate it never goes anywhere same as 6MT vs. 5AT

 

yeah good point...its proven that synthetics like amsoil and Mobil 1 are made of more stable equally sized particles that bind to the engine, lube better, help there be less friction and less heat in the engine, etc. Even Royal Purple has done test to show that their oil has the engine running at cooler temps, cold starts are smoother, few more HP when switched to Synthetic at later mileages, etc...etc

 

I'm not convinced. Links to said articles?

Also, I've seen used oil analyses printouts for conventional oil and for short oil change intervals, they perform just as well as synthetic.

 

OEM Nissan filters suck. Here's a link to my thread about OEM oil filters:

LINK

 

It's not fair to put Mobil 1 in the same class as Amsoil or Royal Purple any more. Mobil switched its Mobil 1 base stock to a petroleum base about a year and a half ago.

 

ya that panel really makes a simple oil change more time consuming for sure...

 

I am not trying to be contrary, or a jerk or someone just trying to **** you off. But, I found a few oil filter tests on the net and I didn't find anything that would cause me to stay away from Purolator. I did find one site which noted Purolator ties a string around the pleated filter to keep the pleats in line and one filter had the string dig into, but not tear, the pleats. That was the worst I found. On the other hand, most tests said the Purolator anti-drainback valve was good.

What am I missing in that you recommend staying away from Purolator? It seems the Purolator One at less than $5 a filter with the synthetic filtering element seems a pretty good buy.

 

I plan on following the MFR's guidance on break-in and change intervals for the first few thousand miles then I'll start sending samples to Blackstone for detailed analysis. They can tell you if you should lengthen/ shorten your intervals and how your motor wears running any given lubricant (dino vs syn). blackstone-labs.com

 

Isn't 0w-30 the same weight as 5w-30 but flows better when it's really cold? I'm curious because my car will see -30 degree mornings occasionally all winter long. That's 70 degrees colder than it is right now at 40 degees. BRRRR.

 

i only use 5w-30 and it will stay at -30 to -40 C here for weeks at a time. I also always plugmy car in. thats a block heater for you people that dont know what that cord is neer the drivers headlight under the hood. lol
Man i need to move to SoCal