Motor25

I have about 750 miles on my G37 now and I was thinking of changing the oil for the first time. I've always wondered what an OEM filter looked like inside. I had some free time today and decided to find out.

I visited my local dealer today and bought myself a 15208-65F0C, the stock-sized filter specified for a 2008 G37. The guy at the counter said it's the same filter used for the G35. It costs about $7/ea.

I had an extra Purolator oil filter at home. It costs about $3 (sometimes $0.01 after rebate) and is readily available at PepBoys.
NOTE: The Purolator oil filter I used is L14610. It's the longer version of the L14612 which is listed on the Purolator website as the oil filter for G37s.

Here's some pics:

Nissan OEM oil filter


Purolator oil filter


The Purolator filter is larger than the OEM filter


Now it's time to cut these open! Prepare to be shocked and disappointed.

NOTE: For those of you who've read about oil filters, you probably know that Fram has the worst reputation amongst widely available oil filters. They tend to have flimsy cans and, most disturbingly, their filter elements are made with weak cardboard end caps that can collapse or fragment in hot oil. Good filters, like Mobil 1, Purolator PureONE, and K&N are made with heavy metal "skeletons" that will neither collapse nor break down in hot oil.

OEM filter bottom


OEM filter cut open (I immediately noticed the cardboard endpiece)


Everything inside the OEM filter laid out


Close up of the OEM filter's cardboard endpiece


Time to open up the Purolator

Purolator filter bottom


Purolator filter cut open (Metal endpieces)


Everything inside the Purolator filter laid out


Close up of the Purolator's metal endpiece


Side-by-side comparo of both filters (Purolator on the left, OEM on the right). The Purolator filter element is approx 2 1/2" tall with 50 pleats vs the OEM filter element which is approx 1 7/8" tall with only 41 pleats. More pleat area = better filtering ability.


Filter top


Filter bottom


Anti-drainback valve (Purolator is made with a thicker, better quality rubber. OEM was thinner and felt flimsy)


Bypass valve


So what did I learn from all this? Pretty simple... the OEM oil filter is basically a Fram in disguise. Will I ever use one in my G37? Probably not.

Also note that the Purolator filter that I used was the PremiumPLUS filter. Purolator also makes their top oil filters called PureONE, which costs more ($5-$6). The PureONE filters are even better than the PremiumPLUS Purolators. I'll try and open one of those too when I get a chance.

So what's the best oil filter to use in our cars? You can't go wrong with any of these:

Purolator PureONE
Mobil 1
AMSOil
Bosch
K&N
Napa Gold

If you wanna save some money and do regular oil change intervals, any of these oil filters will suffice. Hell, anything's better than a Fram/OEM Nissan oil filter.

Purolator PremiumPLUS
SuperTech
STP
AC Delco
Valucraft (Autozone brand)

I've heard good things about the $2 SuperTech oil filters at Wal-Mart. That may be another viable option. I gotta read up some more and maybe cut one open. I plan on doing my first oil change in a couple of days.

Anyway, hope this post was informative for you guys.

Happy motoring!

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Thanks so much for sharing this. Any chance of you cutting open a Wix? I read in a couple of different places that they were one of the best. The NAPA gold is the exact same but under NAPA's house brand name of course.

]\[ /-\ ]\/[

iTrader: (3)

good info!!

i used to use mobil 1 on my maxima all the time...but those cost like $10-$12

peterbanks

iTrader: (4)

Looking forward to the DIY with pics on that please!

Wicked_limitz

iTrader: (1)

great write up...

SLaPiNFuNK

OK, if you have a problem with the 65F oil filters... use the 9E000 filters...

they are the same thing as the 65F but longer...

Just like the other filter you got...

Basicly, that company doesnt make one, but they no it fits...

its been common knowledge that you can use the 9E filter instead of the 65F on the 350Z / G35 since the begining...

Motor25

I bet the 9E000 filters look the same inside. The only way to find out is for somebody to cut one open.

In the meantime, I'm staying away from the OEM oil filters unless someone can prove otherwise.

DetroitG37Joe

iTrader: (2)

Motor 25 - ur post was highly informational...I was actually planning on using Nissan's OEM filter on my first change until I came across this...VERY good post. Thanks!

Now - Do you recommend any particular types of oil as well, or would Infiniti/Nissan OEM oil be sufficient to couple along with a better filter?

I am thinking about doing the first 2-3 changes in motor oil for the oil to settle in and then switch to synthetic...From what I hear that's the way to go since it's apparently bad to put slippery synthetic in an infant engine that hasn't settled in all the way. Also Im thinkin of doing changes every 4k miles.

Any feedback? Also I am interested in these 2 filters you mentioned
Purolator PureONE
Mobil 1

Can you provide the exact model/part numbers for those two that fit our 08 G's?

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

People who know way more than you or I recommend at least 15K to 20K on the engine before the switch to synthetic. If there is ever enything tecnical you wanted to know about engine lubrication/motor oil, this is the best place i'm aware of on the internet to get some excellent information: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

SLaPiNFuNK

engine oil failure due to lack of oil etc (which has been seen a bit in the VQ), and a NISSAN rep see's that oil filter on your car... not covered...

there are no seals that are going to seal any better or any worse now if you use conventional oil or synthetic from the get go... so use what ever you want or your pocket can afford...

SLaPiNFuNK

If you were to ask me.. the filter eliment its self on the non-nissan filter looks cheaper than the nissan... the non-nissan looks more porse...

UNV-IT46

iTrader: (3)

aggreed. You want to keep your car as stock as possible if you do not have the means to repair something like a destroyed motor with your own money. If your changing your oil on the normal schedual you will never see any difference by using another filter then oem. Unless you plan to keep this car for 10+years and plan on putting hundreds of thousands of miles on it. When was the last time you were talking to someone and they said ya my motor blew because i used an oem filter?

Motor25

I went to WalMart today and bought the store brand SuperTech oil filter for our cars (Part# ST7317). It only costs about $2.66/ea



SuperTech filter bottom


SuperTech filter cut open (Notice the metal endpieces)


Everything inside the SuperTech filter laid out


Close up of the SuperTech's metal endpiece


Side-by-side comparo of SuperTech/OEM filters (SuperTech on the left, OEM on the right). The SuperTech filter element is approx 2 1/8" tall with only 40 pleats


Filter top


Filter bottom


Anti-drainback valves for the Purolator (left), SuperTech (middle), and OEM (right). The Purolator ADBV was felt the most solid, followed by the SuperTech, and the OEM ADBV felt the thinnest/flimsiest


Bypass valve comparo of SuperTech/OEM bypass valves (SuperTech on the left, OEM on the right)


And finally, a side-by-side comparo of the filter elements for the Purolator (left), SuperTech (middle), and OEM (right)


After comparing these three oil filters, this are some of the things I noted:

Both the Purolator and the SuperTech filters are made in the USA. The OEM is made in China.

Both the Purolator and the SuperTech filters have metal endpieces. The OEM filter has cardboard endpieces. I'm not sure how well cardboard holds up to the oil pressure and heat of engine oil.

The Purolator and the SuperTech filters have sturdier nitrile rubber anti-drainback valves. The OEM filter's ADBV simply felt flimsy/thin.

The Purolator has the most filtering area (filter element). It's longer and has more pleats tightly packed. SuperTech is 2nd, and the OEM last. The Purolator and SuperTech pleats are glued on very well to the endcaps. Both felt very solid. The OEM filter uses the least glue, looked satisfactory, but lacked the solid feel of the Purolator/SuperTech.

So what does all this mean for the average Joe?

The Purolator and SuperTech oil filters are both well constructed and will perform well in our cars. Get whatever you can get cheaper or whatever's available to you

I'm sure the OEM filter will do fine in our cars, but there's something about the cheap contruction (cardboard endpieces, flimsy ADBV, less filtering media) that doesn't sit well in my stomach. If you use an OEM filter in your car, your engine won't blow up or anything, but personally, I wouldn't let that thing touch my car

Now, if you're one of those people who has to have the absolute best oil filter that money can buy, then feel free to use any of premium oil filters listed on my first post. It's your money, and hey, if it'll make you feel better and sleep peacefully at night, then by all means go for it

Hope this helps. Happy motoring!

Motor25

I'm not sure if you're gonna like this answer or not, but here goes:

If you're changing your oil at the recommended service intervals anyway (3750mi), then there's really no benefit of using synthetic oil. A good conventional oil will perform just fine in our cars. Some examples of good conventional oils are:

Pennzoil
Havoline
Castrol
Valvoline

As far as switching to synthetic, you really don't have to wait a certain amount of miles before you can switch. Car/engine manufacturers nowadays have really tight tolerances/specs that the engine is pretty much broken in from the factory. You can switch to synthetic oil at any time.

I have nothing against synthetic oil. I think they are great if used for the right kind of application. Synthetic oils are great for high temperature engines (turbo'd cars), or engines that are constantly under high load (racing engines). Will our cars ever get that hot, probably not.

Synthetic oils will really shine if you plan on doing extended oil change intervals (which is way, way more than 3750 miles). But if you're an average Joe like myself who changes his engine oil regularly, then conventional oil will perform just as well as a synthetic.

If you use synthetic oil and change it every 3750 miles, frankly you're just wasting money. A good conventional oil can last up to 5000 miles easily. But again, it's your money. If it'll make you sleep better at night, go for it. Me personally, I don't like to waste money. I'd rather use the money I save for mods or beer

Btw, here are the part #s you wanted:

Purolator PureONE # PL14610
Mobil # M1-110

Of course make sure to double check before using them. I won't be held liable for any damages caused by someone using the wrong sized oil filter.

Hope this helps

Motor25

So you guys are saying that if I use a non-OEM oil filter Nissan won't honor warranty work?

Ahhhh!!! It's the end of the world! I better buy enough OEM oil filters to last me 60,000 miles!!! Ahhhh!!!

Btw, I never said that your engine would blow from using an OEM filter. I simply stated that I'd rather not use the OEM filter on my car (read my post above).