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DIY: Adding dipstick to your 7AT

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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 01:50 PM
  #106  
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petemo94
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Its a very tight spot to get to that single bolt/transmission cap. But be VERY careful that this bolt does not snap. Ask me how I know. I think someone mentioned above that the bolt is a break away bolt that keeps that cap on/off.

When you tighten the bolt, do not over tighten it. The dipstick will stay in place b/c the dipstick is held in place tightly by the other 2 mounting points.

Once it's installed, its a simple procedure to buy a decent extractor pump with a long/thin pipe to extract out transmission fluid. Will save you a LOT of money and time that going to a dealer.
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 01:52 PM
  #107  
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isn't the point of adding this so I don't need to use a pump? Just going to drain from underneath and fill from the top with a slim funnel.....
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 01:57 PM
  #108  
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You can do it that way, but it requires ramps/jacks and stuff.

Much easier to pull it from the top and fill it from the top. Doing it this way cuts the time in half.
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 01:58 PM
  #109  
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ill avoid any use of a pump if i need to lol..... draining from the bottom isn't an issue
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 02:01 PM
  #110  
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When you get up in age (I'm now 61 ;-) ) anything I can do, to not have to do work under the car will be better.
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 03:52 PM
  #111  
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haha that's fair. Now that you say how difficult it is maybe ill just have my shop do it. Based on what I've read, sounds like its much easier on a lift and if you can remove the driveshaft near it, (im AWD) even better.
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 01:16 PM
  #112  
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Also works on M37

I can confirm this also works on a 2012 M37. Will Order another set for my G37 now. I got the parts from yoshi parts.

Caveats (2012 M37)
MIddle bracket has a 1/2” gap that requires a spacer and longer 10mm bolt.

Exterior of the dip stick tube that connects to the transmission I had file down as it was very tight stock. I couldn’t get the end to fit flush. After filing to reduce it a bit it fit.

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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 12:44 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by petemo94
When you get up in age (I'm now 61 ;-) ) anything I can do, to not have to do work under the car will be better.
does all the liquid come out using a tube? I am under the impression a lot stays inside the transmission, so you only pull about 1/3 of the liquid.

but a "take photo of dipstick, lift, drain, refill until back to same mark at dipstick" seems simpler in concept if not in execution.

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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 12:04 PM
  #114  
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I am considering this addition, and my thinking is as follows.

Dealer performed the fluid exchange (12 quarts) 15K miles ago and I will assume that the level is perfect since the machine/procedure they use (70 psi, which is similar to the water pressure in your house) is calibrated to place a perfect amount of fluid in the transmission.

I will then measure the distance the end of the dipstick extends into the transmission and create a tube for my transfer pump that is a corresponding length, maybe an inch or two longer as I'm assuming that the dipstick does not go anywhere near the bottom of the transmission.

As such, I will install the dip stick then take a reading and that will be my gold level.

I will then use the hand transfer pump to remove as much fluid as possible, then measure how much was removed. If less than the drain and fill amount of roughly 4 quarts, I will extend the hose slightly on the transfer pump.

Once a system is in place, I will perform the service every other oil change, which is similar to what I do with my Hondas as those provide a dipstick and are also known to fail if you follow the silly recommended long change intervals recommended by Honda.

I'm also considering using the drain plug as well since I need to be under the car for oil changes anyway. The little hex T5 drain plug is a little fragile, so I'm always worried it will strip at some point. Maybe I'll just buy a replacement?

I believe that this is the full list of PNs as the original ones got lost near the beginning of this thread:

31083A/31377-JL01A (upper nut)
31083A/31377-JL01A (lower nut)
31084-20301 (dip stick tube seal)
31086-EY00A (dip stick)
31080-EY00B (dip stick tube)

~$70 on Amayama with $24 shipping est.



Last edited by socketz67; Nov 9, 2025 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2025 | 03:48 AM
  #115  
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may need a hacksaw

Originally Posted by socketz67
I am considering this addition, and my thinking is as follows.

Dealer performed the fluid exchange (12 quarts) 15K miles ago and I will assume that the level is perfect since the machine/procedure they use (70 psi, which is similar to the water pressure in your house) is calibrated to place a perfect amount of fluid in the transmission.

I will then measure the distance the end of the dipstick extends into the transmission and create a tube for my transfer pump that is a corresponding length, maybe an inch or two longer as I'm assuming that the dipstick does not go anywhere near the bottom of the transmission.

As such, I will install the dip stick then take a reading and that will be my gold level.

I will then use the hand transfer pump to remove as much fluid as possible, then measure how much was removed. If less than the drain and fill amount of roughly 4 quarts, I will extend the hose slightly on the transfer pump.

Once a system is in place, I will perform the service every other oil change, which is similar to what I do with my Hondas as those provide a dipstick and are also known to fail if you follow the silly recommended long change intervals recommended by Honda.

I'm also considering using the drain plug as well since I need to be under the car for oil changes anyway. The little hex T5 drain plug is a little fragile, so I'm always worried it will strip at some point. Maybe I'll just buy a replacement?

I believe that this is the full list of PNs as the original ones got lost near the beginning of this thread:

31083A/31377-JL01A (upper nut)
31083A/31377-JL01A (lower nut)
31084-20301 (dip stick tube seal)
31086-EY00A (dip stick)
31080-EY00B (dip stick tube)

~$70 on Amayama with $24 shipping est.

see those two little nubs that are 2/3 the way down the dipstick tube? My car had wires in the way that I didn't want to move, because they would lose slack in them, so i hacksawed those off and also sanded down the sawn edges. the bottom and top bolt were plenty to hold the tube in place.

and eyepro. a lot of crud came down as i was tetrising up the tube from below (much easier than trying to go down from above.

good luck and have fun!
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