It was time to swap out the old plugs and install some new ones.

-first things first buy your plugs. I shopped around all over the place looking for these guys.
OEM-Nissan OEM Denso Iridium Spark Plug Set - 22401-JK01D, FXE24HR11

Dealer- $250.87 for 6
CZP- $96.34

obviously I called CZP

tools needed:
- Socket wrench
- Socket extension
- Torque wrench
- 8mm socket
- 14mm socket or 14mm spark plug remover
- 5mm allen key
- 10inch vacuum tube or magnet on a stick (if you dont have a spark plug remover tool)
- Pliers

BUY THE 14MM SPARK PLUG REMOVER KIT TO MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER

Before you begin make sure your G is cold or cooled down

1. Remove engine cover.



2. Remove air cleaner case and air duct.



3. Get this line out of the way.



4. Remove the throttle body and the electrical cable (at this step if your throttle body looks dirty you can clean it with some throttle body cleaner).
follow this DIY by Q8y_drifter
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...le-bodies.html



5. Push the throttle body back and start removing the ignition coil , do one spark plug at a time so that you don't mix up the wires. They are screwed down by a 8mm bolt and have ignition wire clips that also need to be removed before you can remove the ignition coil.



6. Take your spark plug remover tool or 14mm socket and remove the spark plugs, do them one at a time so you do not mix things up. Take your vacuum line and pull the spark plug out.

7. Take your new spark plug and put it into the spark plug removal tool or vacuum line and hand tighten it back in.





8. The new plugs will need to be torqued into place since they have a crush washer. I looked around the FSM and could not find anything about torquing the plugs down, I did find this website that suggests torquing them down to 18-22 Ft Lbs(correct me if I'm wrong) -www.magers.org/handy/plug_torque.html



Follow steps 2-8 to complete the opposite side

The plugs are rated to run for 100,000 km (thats what the dealer told me)

If you wish to follow the FSM you can find this under MA(maintenance) on page 18

 

What mileage did you do this at? No anti-seize on the plug threads?

Notice any difference in driveability?

 

Good write up, but I have a question.

Did yo with an OEM rated plug or elect to go with a cooler burning plug?

 

I'm currently at 80,000 miles. I followedThe fsm and it does not call for any anti-seize on the plugs so I didnt use any. And man is there a difference in drivability. I've heard of some guys doing dynos to see how much power loss they had and they actually gained back about 15 hp from a before and after dyno

 

I went with the OEM rated plug just to play it safe. I dont have a SC or TT so theres really no need for cooler burning plugs. I looked at other alternatives but after reading some stuff on poor idles and knocking after some of the guys on the G35 forums went with cooler burning plugs I decided to just follow the FSM and stick with oem plugs.

 

very good.....thank you.

and thanks for the write up

 

Awesome write up! Deserves a sticky.

 

Torque is 14 ft-lbs. Found it on EM-16.

 

Is it necessary to gap oem plugs?

 

Nope, OEM plugs are pre-gapped. I think the gap length was listed on the original packaging.

 

it doesn't hurt to double check to make sure its got the correct gap.

 

Just an FYI on RockAuto.com they have #FXE24HR11 set of 6 for 65$

More Information for DENSO 3457

 

After shipping, taxes, customs it was cheaper with the other guys but if you live in the states then rock auto is always the way to go... Jimmy is right always a good idea to check gap lengths

 

OK newb here who is CZP ??

 

concept z performance, they're an online store for G/Z parts