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You poked the bottom of the busing with a knife to drain out the silicone? Do you have to puncture the top as well? Would simply drilling into it work as well? What size bit did you use? Did you have any problem cutting through the outer sleeve and into the cross member?
I used a knife to drain it, just the bottom, so the drill wouldn't splatter silicone all over the place while spinning!!!
I used one that fit without binding.
The outer sleeve cut like butter with a 24T Sawzall blade. Tool all of 30 seconds.
Had to stop, a couple of times to make sure I wasnt going too far!!
The Sawzall was at a slight rotation angle so I would drag on the center sleeve.
Once it went through the tension was all but gone.
Nice .. I will be attempting to do this when the CF Driveshaft is available so I can knock it all out at once . I have the Whiteline bushings and my SPL parts are starting to trickle in . Question .... Do you know if freezing the diff bushing makes for a easier install ? I keep seeing mixed reviews on that
Nice .. I will be attempting to do this when the CF Driveshaft is available so I can knock it all out at once . I have the Whiteline bushings and my SPL parts are starting to trickle in . Question .... Do you know if freezing the diff bushing makes for a easier install ? I keep seeing mixed reviews on that
The Whiteline? Dont freeze.
If I had a hoist, I probably would have been able to push it in by hand!!
Do the front round plates fit inside the subframe hole? I was planning to use them as a press plates to pull out the bushing. This is what im talking about:
Do the front round plates fit inside the subframe hole? I was planning to use them as a press plates to pull out the bushing. This is what im talking about:
Do the front round plates fit inside the subframe hole? I was planning to use them as a press plates to pull out the bushing. This is what im talking about:
If you're referring to his no drop no clamp DIY, he revised his DIY, to drill and Sawzall method, which I used. See his post #12
The rear almost falls out, and the fronts just pop out with a hammer and socket.
Yeah, I'm still going to try the Frankenstein socket method. With the Sawzall method, it seems like you still need a long bolt and a bracket to pull in the new bushing.
Yeah, I'm still going to try the Frankenstein socket method. With the Sawzall method, it seems like you still need a long bolt and a bracket to pull in the new bushing.
The reason being, that the bushing is egg shaped, and getting it in takes some effort. It wants to pop back out. Once in, it takes little pressure to pull it from the rear. In my case, as I was on my back.
If youre on a hoist, then pushing it in from the front, while standing, should be really easy.
I did my whiteline bushing install this past weekend. It was more PIA than I expected. I have some extra bracing in the way, so it took a bit longer. Tvpostsound did a great write up and I don't have much to add. Sawzall is the way to go in terms of removing the center bushing.
I did my whiteline bushing install this past weekend. It was more PIA than I expected. I have some extra bracing in the way, so it took a bit longer. Tvpostsound did a great write up and I don't have much to add. Sawzall is the way to go in terms of removing the center bushing.
03-27-2013, 01:16 PM
