I didn't take any. I was too focused on getting it done and I didn't want to get my phone oily.

 

Where did the extra difficulty come from, the braces?

 

Yeah, I have an extra piece welded to the exhaust area that made it more difficult to fit a sawzall. I also have a couple of extra braces that needed to be removed. I was trying to avoid taking off the midsection of my exhaust but had to I order to remove the sway bar.

 

Not too late before the bushings get all black and stuff!!

 

Super awesome post. This will be a big big help when the day comes. Did you have a lot of axle hop before?


For everyone else, remember to give the 1st post a thumbs up for all the work he did.

 

The black drip of death! Just my luck I had to do this mod/repair after my bumper to bumper warranty expired...and I can confirm that the Whiteline G35/350Z diff. bushing kit (KDT911) will work with the G37. Thanks for trailblazing on the install TVPostSound!!!!

 

Does the rear bushing fit in there centered (front to back) or will I have to space it? Did any of you use a lock washer or a jam nut?

Someone on 370z said that you will have to tighten the rear nut down evry once in a while because it loosens up with this new bushing. Someone else said there rear bushing came out on them ( towards the front side I think).

 

A spacer is not necessary. Just torque the bushing nut to spec. (81 ft-lbs). It'll slide into the subframe bushing sleeve and sit where it needs to be. I feel it is pretty secure but it would not hurt to use a lock washer if you are concerned about the effects of vibration...but that concern would have been true with the nut on the OEM bushing as well. The install instructions for the Whiteline bushing does advise to recheck the mounts after the initial 100km travelled.

A bushing completely falling out or coming loose sounds like an under torqued bushing nut but who knows. I'm just glad I saved $1200+ over the OEM alternative (a new subframe!).

 

The bushing fits fairly centered.
The center sleeve is a metal cup with a bolt hole, it contacts the boss on the differential, the nut you reuse is a locknut. Torque to specs.
There is no reason for it to loosen.

The 370Z post about it falling out, was an Energy Suspension urethane sleeve, where you reuse the inner metal sleeve. The metal stayed, but the urethane slipped out. Another mentioned the nit loosening, that was also an ES bushing.

The Whiteline is bonded to the sleeve, same as the OEM.


I have been abusing the bushing while rewriting, and testing my ECT maps, theres no problem here!! No loosening, and the diif does not move like the OEM!!

 

nice!!!!!

 

Who did the install??

 

@ TVPostSound. My friends William and Donald at CarZone on Sepulveda did the install. In my experience they're great guys. Being in Granada Hills, you may likely be familiar with the shop since it is extremely local to you.

One question I do have for you. I've been driving for a couple of days with the WL bushing setup installed exactly as you described and love the firmer rear traction; however, I have noticed a very brief low freq. humming noise/vibration coming from the rear only when quickly accelerating between 20-30 MPH (I have a 6MT model). It quickly goes away once I ease off on the gas and stop accelerating. Have you experienced this as well?

 

Once you start replacing all the mushy rubber with new stiffer polyurethane .. The car gets loud . I replaced my engine mounts , trans mount and getting ready to replace my bushing as well .. I had to sound deaden the car and it helped a lot with vibrations and noise ..

 

Ive noticed a little more noise, it's not bad.

 

Drivetrain rumble when accelerating is solved! Whiteline's KDT911 instructions to position the smaller vertical diff. mount bushing at the top and larger vertical diff. mount bushing at the bottom caused an out of phase pinion angle at the diff. end of the drive shaft (pinion nose up). To recover the OEM pinion angle, we reversed the bushing positions (larger on the top and smaller on the bottom). I am not sure if the diff. pinion angles between the G35 and the G37 are indeed different but our experience hints that that may be the case. If anyone senses drivetrain rumbling like I did, this may be a way to fix it.