ya, looks fine to me

 

Oh jeez ...

Glenn, I hope you did not actually install those plugs in your car, because they most definitely are not the right ones!!

Apparently, you listed their basic fitment/sizing info and concluded that since they will physically fit that they will be just fine. What you neglected to notice is that the part numbers include the all important heat range info as well; in your case, 20 versus the specified 24. Make no mistake, this is quite significant! Those plug you purchased were two whole heat ranges hotter than the stock plugs (Frequently Asked Questions: DENSO Iridium). "A plug that is too 'hot' can overheat, also causing power loss, detonation, pre-ignition, and possible engine damage." The engine in your car is considered a high compression engine and, as such, is quite sensitive (and susceptible) to cylinder temp issues. Hopefully, the knock sensing is keen enough, and the ecu is smart enough to retard combustion such that you are not outright burning a hole in a piston, but at a minimum you are LOSING power!

Bottom line: there is no way in hell running those plugs can be good for your car! Get them out immediately.




I haven't the slightest clue what you think you're seeing there, but that plug looks like it's got tens of thousands of miles left in it.

 

Thanks for the sticky...very well written up and great pictures!

Just changed my plugs today at 74.5K miles and it was definitely worth doing now vs. waiting another 25K as recommended. My original plugs looked a lot better than those shown in the picture above. Swapping them out has made it drive smoother and there seems to be more power on the low end which helps with driveability.

I got the plugs at my local NAPA - they had them in stock and I used my AAA discount which made them as cheap as all the other low prices mentioned elsewhere on this thread, and I didn't have to order them and wait for them to ship.

A few extra things I did when I changed mine:

1) I used a 14mm spark plug socket when pulling my original plugs out in order to grab the plug after it was loosened up. For installing the new one, I didn't use the spark plug socket since it held the plug so tight that I felt it wouldn't dislodge when I backed off after tightening it and I'd have to fish out the socket, so I used a short (1.5") piece of vacuum hose and put a small wood dowel (about 7" long) in one end and the top of the new spark plug in the other. It worked great to hold the plug as I feed it in a straight line down the hole and started the initial threading. I finished up using a regular long 14mm socket to do the final torquing.
2) For the right bank (as you face the engine), I had more dirt on that side of the engine for some reason, so I used a home canister vacuum and made an extension of rubber hose to reach down the spark plug holes and suck out any debris that fell down before installing the new plug.
3) I needed various extensions to get the right length when trying to do cylinder #6 in the very back on the right side, so have those handy.
4) I used gloves whenever I could since there are a lot of sharp edges on all the clamps and other pieces in that area.

Thanks

 

Call me a doubter, but I suspect you're experiencing (we're witnessing) . . .

 

Yup.. Folks need to look at tip of plug & amount of gap space reduction to see how bad the plugs are instead of black color around the spiral thingy (don't know the correct term )

Sorry for unclear pics... Plugs @ 93k miles

 

Someone read this $hit :



is it leaning ? Rich ?
Googled it already but can't seem to find the "Yellow" stuff !

 

Very useful thread... Subbed. Tnx

 

If you guys want a little hack for your 14mm deep sockets, the next time you go to your local tire shop, ask them if they have any of the butt ends of rubber valve stems laying around or ask for an extra rubber valve stem (you can cut off the end). They just yank them when changing tires and it leaves the big end separated from the stem. Take the big end and jam it to the bottom of your 14mm socket and instant plug grabber.

 

Thanks to unknowndesi for this great HOW TO. Original plugs at roughly 115k miles. I've got the FSM, but it doesn't include tips, tricks, and real photos. I changed them last weekend and thought I should compliment the work that helped me organize the process before lifting the bonnet.

 

Thanks for the DIY! It gave me confidence to change the spark plugs myself!
Infiniti dealership wanted to charge me $410 so I said F that and changed them myself.
Only payed $80 for the denso sparkplugs from NAPA.
Spark Plugs haven't been changed at all and I have 104k miles so thought it was time.

 

How difficult were the old plugs to remove? Any complications?

Old plug looks nicely worn but not consumed. Electrodes look intact.

 

It wasn't that hard at all! I'm not really good at fixing stuff I've only installed a cold air intake and it was easy just takes some time. OMG on my way home I was doing some spirited driving and I could definitely tell a difference I should have changed my spark plugs and cleaned my throttle body a long time ago.

 

Going to do mine this saturday I have 123,000 miles on my 2008 G37 coupe journey. Lets see how bad they are hopefully everything comes out without problems since they have been in there way to long. Got the car used I don't think the other owner never changed them. I'll post pictures during and after so you guys can see.

 

I'm having trouble finding the answer to this question, so I'm just going to ask it.

I know the common belief is that you should replace the wires when you replace your spark plugs, but i dont seem to see the wires anywhere online. I do see the Spark Plug (Coil-On-Plug) Boot on Rock Auto, but I'm not sure if this is right or not. I havent been under the hood to look at the spark plug area to the distributor, but I guess my question is two fold...

Do we have an equivalent to replacing the spark plug wires, and how necessary would it be to replace it?

Based on the fact that noone here has mentioned it, I'm assuming its not critical, but i know there are more knowledgeable people than me on here, so i figure why not ask.

 

There are no 'wires' to replace in modern ignition systems. Each plug has its own coil (known as Coil On Plug ignition - COP ). You replace coils when they fail or start to fail. No rotor to replace either.