2009 G37 Sedan (Not sure if this can be done on a coupe but I assume it can)

It took me hours of work taking out the console and scratching up the washi finish and tripped the srs light to later find that I could have been done in less than 3 minutes. I wanted to pass along the DIY since I didn't see it in the DIY section. I did find the srs airbag DIY!



1. You will need a 10mm deepwell socket and an extension rod.
2. Sit in the driver's seat.
3. Take your fingernails or a sharp object and slide it between the plastic and felt material in the picture by the red arrow. The plastic should bend and you will then be able to take out the suede coin holder.
4. Adjust your ebrake to desired tension.
5. Install the coin holder.
6. 3 minutes later and you're done!

 

is this on an 6mt? Also, don't you need to removed the rear rotor to adjust the ebrake?

 

Yes, this is on a 6MT. I don't have the service manual and therefore don't know the preferred 'Nissan' method. Tightening the lock nut is so much easier and quicker. I adjusted the ebrake on my G35 6MT the same way with no adverse effects. I can actually keep from moving on an incline. (I put it in gear regardless)

 

I've read in the service manual that all you have to do is remove the adjusting hole plug from the disc rotor and there you see an adjuster which you use an flat head screw driver to adjust accordingly + your method. I'll try your method 1st before adjusting the rotor. Hopefully it gets rid of the creaking nosie when I engage my parking brake.
I would upload the 2 PDF pages that explains this, but don't have Adobe standard or pro to do so.

 

Both those ways will work. Most cars with a centre console have a nut or double nut cable per side at the handbrake lever. Just have to gain access to them. The prefered way would be to use the access port in the hub of the disc and a thin / long flatblade screwdriver. Adjust the tension until the disc won't turn then back it off a click and you'll have very tight parking brakes. If this doesn't work the shoes may need to be replaced. They're accessible once you remove the disc from the hub.

 

I'll try this, my e brake doesn't hold...I was watching a jeep guy in YouTube getting under the car, but I don't think it's the case with the Gs.

 

thank baby jesus for this, i've been dealing w/ no e-brake for a while now

 

This is the same issue as the g35, had to do it on mine.

 

I just want to bump this up.

So is that image in the first post loading for anyone else? Mine doesn't show anything so I've got nothing to go on. My e-brake does not engage until the ultimate last bit and it is annoying SO I'd like to fix it myself.

Also, question..I've got a warranty on my G from CarMax, would a warranty cover this if I didn't have time to do it myself?

 

I would like to see the pictures as well, my ebrake needs to be re-adjust.

 

So I drove the G for the first time in awhile and felt how loose/easy the e-brake pedal was compared to my Acura TL and it barely engages. I have an auto so I think the adjustment method differs to the manual. On my previous cars, the adjustment could be made at the rear brake by spinning a gear to tighten/loosen. Is it the same on the G? This is what I found when I searched so don't kill me.

 

You want to lift near the middle/back of the coin holder to get the cover off. I did it easily using my finger nails.

The goal of course is to have the wheels turn freely when the lever is down. The fsm says 6-7 notches to achieve 44 lb pull. Without proper instruments this is near impossible to measure. So probably best to test on a small incline. In my case there was definitely some free play before the nut would touch the cable mechanism.

Question, should there be a small gap between the nut/mechanism or it should be flush? Given the drag of the diff, drive shaft, trans, etc, it's hard to feel for this even with the wheels off the ground. Mine needed adjustment as it was a good 3/16" or so away. I left about a mm of free play. Wheels appear to turn freely with lever down.

From the fsm. I think steps 2 & 3 are reversed. Can't turn the nut until the coin pocket is removed!@#



Other question (for the MT folk), if you press the start button twice without the clutch depressed (engine not running), does the brake light remain lit until the car is started or does it turn off after some time?

 

To answer my own question. The brake light remains on with engine in the on position (but not running) whether the parking brake is engaged or fully released. Once the car is started, brake light extinguishes when the lever is fully disengaged.

 

Any one got a picture from the OP?

 

Never mind.

You gotta remove the felt coin holder channel and voila! There's the adjusting nut.