New OEM heater hoses (3) and new OEM dual-tension clamps (6) = $200.

 

Found the important part of a Stealth Hitch to maybe make a bike-rack hitch for the G.

Other than that - well, I pulled the car cover off to show a friend's daughter's mechanically inclined friend.

 

Time for new rubber. Have Continental DWS06+ 245/45R19 and 275/35R19 sitting in the garage, but I'll be gone for most of June so I'll tackle when I get home in July.

 

Left for a work trip Tuesday at 7:30am and the tpms sensors lit up. I checked the tire pressure hack on the HUD mod that most of us have installed, and the front passenger tire was 4lbs lower than the others. Put air in that tire and scadattled. Not sure how it fell off so much. 150 miles today and no fluctuations. Averaged 23mpg this tank which included a rough, 300 mile traffic ridden trip to LA and back. Not bad? Temp gauge never went past 1/4. Intake air temp never exceeded 100F. These cars take a licking and keep on ticking

 

I need to do the TPMS hack. Or, you know, check that I still have the same car under the car cover.

 

Absolutely, you need this hack.

I've got an intermittent weak battery in my driver's front TPMS. When the dash light decides goes on, this hack lets me know if the problem is actually low pressure, or a bad sensor and which one.

Just remember the top down sequence of PSI numbers represents the four corners counter clockwise starting at the driver front.

 

How difficult are the heater hoses (3 total?) to replace?

 

Upper hose is easy peasy. Lower hose means a coolant flush. What would the third hose be?

 

He is referring to the hoses at the heater core, not the radiator.

There are two hoses at the heater inlet line from the engine (joined by the infamous plastic connector) and one hose from the heater outlet to the engine. Reaching the two inner hoses (recessed into the firewall) are a PITA to access.

Though, technically, the "third" radiator hose would be the overflow line. So, yeah...

 

Yes, heater core - two with the vent/connector joining them and the return from core-engine block. Wear gloves, your knuckles will thank you. Have a long (16" or more) 90* bent needlenose plier to get the clamps off. IIRC I removed the battery cover surround and from there it wasn't that hard.

Going back on - with new clamps that are locked open, you just hit them with a skinny flathead and they'll pop into place.

(thought I had a picture of the new hoses & clamps - can't find it)

The radiator hoses are actually fairly simple to change - I can't recall if I even needed to get under the car, other than to hose off the spilled coolant.

 

So those hoses are our heater hoses? Two going into heater core from the block, joined by the heater hose coupler, then another which exits the heater core and goes where as I have never traced that one? Is it another smaller, thick hose like the heater core ingress hoses? Potentially not as prone to failure as the much larger upper and lower radiator hoses?

 

the heater return hose is in the same area (below?) as the ones with the coupler, and goes into the block in a similar place. There's also a coolant hose that goes via a manifold of tubes on the back of the lower intake into each throttle body, but those are about 1/2" OD vs the 1" OD heater ones.

My hoses were fine - just the damn plastic connector dry-rotted. Replacing with metal.

I replaced my rad hoses with silicone (Z1) and they spotted right away - using the Nissan blue coolant. Z1 told me I installed them wrong and had a pinhole leak somewhere, that it couldn't be the hoses themselves... rather than fight them ad infinitem I just bought new GATES OEM style rubber. No issues since changing back, although my chrome/red aesthetic was impinged.

 

That sequence changed for me once I replaced the sensors and the tech forced a relearn with aftermarket TPMS. #1 shifted to the passenger front. Just an FYI as the sensors are only meant to last 10 years, so I expect we will see many replacing them soon. I only figured this out because one of my tires was mysteriously low as I was leaving for my business trip last week.

 

Gates is my goto for aftermarket belts, hoses, etc. I use their kits for the 100K timing chain service on my Hondas as they make the OEM version. Silicone more permeable to gases and liquids than traditional rubber, so I stick with rubber for anything moving fluids (https://motoiq.com/silicone-radiator...or-the-street/). However, Silicone intake hoses offer significantly better temperature resistance compared to rubber, so I like that material on the intake side.

This guy on the 8th Gen Honda Forum used his Cobb AccessPort and the good old scientific method to test and the results are pretty impressive: https://www.8thcivic.com/threads/diy...esults.179543/

I'm not sure what the tradeoffs are which drive OEMs to use rubber. I'm guessing there is one or two as they need to factor in so many design variables, cost may be one, and I am guessing that the permeability may lead to premature wear if say there are different forms of leaks in the engine bay.

 

Really? #1 switched from driver-front to pass-front? I didn't know that could happen. Someone should mentions this to Frank @MotorvateDIY