You are correct, gallery gasket would be the correct term. Whoops!

 

I thought it was on the rear of the engine, between the heads and the block. It's on the front? I guess under the timing belt cover etc? I've not had one of these apart on a stand (yet) so I am going by internet pictures.

When I lived in central NC, we had an abundance of independents with good reputations, decent dealers, even some decent race shops not affiliated with NASCAR. I was part of an SCCA co-op shop - an old WWII quonset hut building with individual bays and then communal lift, tire machines, press, welders, compressor, etc and a field for parts cars next door, that we all paid about $150/month for. This was, say, 1999 - 2004 or so. I miss that place, and while I'm still friends with most of the other racers, many have moved on (or passed on) due to age/infirmity/life making racing less accessible. I know I'll likely never find that again, but a man can dream.

I thought maybe Columbia was a better area for the car scene, but nightmare stories from by buddy with an ATS-V - his tuner has blown up *3* expensive engines on the dyno, before getting near readline, and the engine builder finally admitted his engines were designed for drag race sandrails only (IE, run 1 pass then rebuild).

If there was an actual car 'scene' here that wasn't just money coming to the beach from elsewhere for a time, or actual drug money derived, then I'd consider starting a garage if I could entice my tank mechanic buddy back from Atlanta. I don't get it - SC doesn't do inspections, which is ideal for custom car work, but everything I see is showzone only, or visiting from out of the area. Maybe Rock Hill / Fort Mill (just this side of Charlotte) has a car culture still?

gallery = passageway, galley = kitchen (both are nautical in origin I believe). Rotaries have a pressurized oil passage that feeds through multiple engine housings of the 'sandwich' and into the front timing cover too, that gets sealed by various means and modified to be less blow-out prone.

 

In this case I think you mean the rear main seal. Chances are it is in good shape (haven't heard of too many failures on these cars) but it is good to double check. It's a few dollar part and not a bad thing to replace while you are in there.

 

Well, the service manager refuses to take my calls now and no pictures yet as promised... I won't hold my breath. I wasn't even an ******* to her - I was still in shock at the price increase.

 

Have you been to the dragstrip with your car? If so what times did you get

 

I haven't been to a dragstrip - as driver or spectator - since maybe 1996 or so. Not my thing.

 

Car back in my hands today. They took off the extra $700 for the ABS master, as the service writer and manager agreed with me that since it is in the FSM, they should have quoted that time as part of it. Got some decent compliments on the car - and to me, it looks pretty sketchy right now LOL.

Raining cats and dogs all day so no chance to see what the difference is, and too wet to drag out the box of old parts they gave me to look over the old clutch etc. Little bit of rattle at about 1500 RPM-2000 RPM but really not bad. They've got the engagement point set very low which I'll have to adjust, but so far drives pretty much like stock except for a teeny bit more pedal effort. Upper half of the RPM range is unusable, even with traction control on, but that isn't unusual in the wet.

More driving and notes on it once I can buy gas again.

 

Rear Powerstop-rebuilt calipers came in today - they look pretty darn good. Amazon purchase for $160, came drop shipped from JEGs lol.






Already had the fronts, have front Hawk pads, Z1 stainless lines, AKEBONO decals, High temp clear paint, and ATE fluid... now need rear Hawk pads and time.

 

SO here's pics of the removed parts: Pressure plate front and back, clutch disk front and back, flywheel front and back. Other than some mild overheat spots, they look pretty decent to me.








And here's the culprits:





The master cylinder was covered by some sort of latex/sealant goo that had hardened. The CSC had fluid everywhere.

 

So the CSC failure led you down the primrose path of a clutch & LW flywheel upgrade... right?

I mean, the HD CSC is a fine replacement, and probably gives you peace of mind, but what about the drivetrain upgrade? I've been waiting to read about your clutch/FW upgrade. Particularly since you spent thousands of dollars on parts & labor, with more than a little agita about the project.

Come on, Mike. 10,000 words or less. Go!

 

Yep. $1500 labor whether they replace JUST the CSC - or everything in there. HD CSC was $350, so the flywheel and clutch weren't out of the realm of possibility. Spent the extra $150 on ZSpeeds install kit - all new heavy duty bolts for PP and FW, Redline fluid to refill the trans and Motul brake/clutch fluid. Master was $135 I think. Notable weight difference - the LW was just kinda heavy, the regular FW is actually difficult for me to lift with one hand. I'm no strongman, but I do hike with a 50 pound pack... and this was heavy.

Can't really evaluate it until the whole shebang is broken in - 500 miles or so. Until then, 500 miles of sedate driving. I drive the car maybe 1x week. Not noting much of a difference at sedate mode - other than the rattling (noise only, and minor) and slightly increased pedal effort. I mean like 20% - might just be selection bias, honestly. That and the pedal is too close to the floor - need to install RJM pedal and adjust properly.

 

Oh, I didn't realize there was a break-in period, but that makes sense.

 

Made edits to initial post - mostly posting this for @Rochester 's benefit.

 

Little bit of dress-up.

 

Ton of work to do before Z Nationals. Brakes, dampers, springs, finish the Q50 mirror, finish putting interior back in, etc etc and so on. I should probably make a list.