Frank reached out to me and said the shop that force programmed the TPMS sensors probably just selected the wrong wheel as #1. I’m not sweating it…

 

so this is from
about 4 days ago in Bologna at the Museum. Some newer stuff too but the oldies are the prettiest imho. No pics from the factory but got to see the Revuelto assembly line and a v12 hybrid engine QC run

The company ethos has changed from Ferrucios quest for perfection to just exclusivity.

Been in Vienna the last few days which is lovely but not a car Mecca. I have been teaching my kiddo the badges of different euro makes as we walked the city though.

 

Got some new rubber (continental extreme contact dws6) to replace the dry-rotted Kumho PS91s that were my first tires on the Coupe Sport wheels. Above in this thread and others you'll see me complaining of tramlining and twitchiness - gone. Was the damn tires.

The PS91s stick great when pushing the car - but at illegal levels. Otherwise it's like a squirrel on red bull.

These Connies stick really well for an all-season and NO TWITCH/TRAMLINE.

Got them put on 8/2, drove to Myrtle Beach about 2.5 hours away Sunday, then back to Charleston Monday afternoon. No twitch at all.

Suspension in the front still clunks and is too hard, but I've eliminated one whole problem/symptom with the tire change. Still have the non-Nismo Z springs to try on the front. Think the clunk is from the swaybar. Need to install Vline2 Carplay module badly. But... back on the road and a much better driving experience.

 

Glad you got that issue figured out. DWS6 will probably be my next tires due to cost savings versus Michelin all seasons, which I'm currently rocking, because I read they are nearly the same level of performance for considerably less money (last time I looked, at least).

 

The Kumhos stuck fantastically when there was decent road surface for them to hold on to. They reminded me of the shaved Kumho Victorracers we used to get for the ITS track cars. Just a shadow of tread and very sticky. But... on normal roads with normal driving they were miserable. Best way I can describe it is that I felt like I was constantly on tiptoe and couldn't trust them unless I was beating the snot out of them.

The Contis have enough give to be compliant and still stick very well at legal-ish speeds on exit ramps and the like, and are a little easier to break free for heel-and-toe actuated mild drifts. If I were to autocross on them I'd play with tire pressures to balance the car how I'd like it (prob drop the fronts to 28 and push the rears to 38-40 to get better rotation). So far very confidence inspiring - even my kiddo commented that I corner more assertively on these than the older tires.

 

I've only auto-x a handful of times with various cars (three times with the G), so I'm absolutely a novice. But reading this makes me with I had tried that.

 

My recommendation is to do a season of local autoX on your car as oem before changing stuff.

Then you should know what you wish the car would do better or less of, etc... after a year of AutoX in the FC3S RX7 turbo I knew I wanted less turbo lag and more rotation in corners. :shrug:

When I was competing in drift stuff with my FB (first get RX7) I knew it had to be silly loose given it only had 100HP. So... trailer tires all the way around pumped up to 45 PSI. Drifted like a cloud.

 

OOH boy it has been a WHILE since I updated this page. Not much happening until of late but I did some stuff other than just rinse off the pollen.

Around mid-January I swapped the carbon-flake-vinyl-wrapped stereo faceplate for a hydrodipped one. Apparently from a slightly different year so the CD slot is in the wrong place... I more or less deleted it internally. I don't think I've ever used a CD in this car in 8 years of ownership. I... uh... I remember *owning* CDs, at one point, but that was decades ago...

Added the CARSMO ***** I've had on the shelf forever (who knew the top and bottom ***** were different lengths? I did not). Then installed that along with the VLINE2 to get Carplay. Great success!





You'll note the clock is missing. That is, at least for now, on purpose.

 

Carsmo *****... that's a blast from the past.

I have them too. Bought them under a group buy when they were first introduced. Love 'em.

 

Got mine on here from another forum member *years* ago... actually took several days to find them in the garage. They were with the pool toys of all things.

 

Completed the replacement of the heater hoses and connector. I decided to use the Z1 with bleeder port version.

What is required is:
92410-EY00A hose
92401-JK20A hose
92402-JK20A hose
(6) 01558-00521 clamp (these are the double-band constant pressure OEM clamps)

I only really have notes on the passenger side. The driver's side was relatively easy.

First - once you remove the battery trim and windshield trim, there is a standoff from the firewall that you will have to bend out of your way. Unless you have three elbows, a 4' long arm and hands the size of a child BUT with the grip strength of 10 men.


Then, you'll need an extra special tool to reach down to get the clamp on the back of the engine block...


Specifically, the one on the right. I think these are 20" or so. Walk right past the one with the 2nd joint in the middle, it can't build enough clamping force to move these stubborn clamps.

Assembly is the reverse of removal et al.

I would suggest building the hose-connector-hose assembly outside the car and putting the two clamps for the connector on that way - it just takes a (with pliers) squeeze or a tap from a screwdriver and they'll spring shut. WATCH YOUR FINGERS. I didn't get bit this time, but when doing the temp fix on the road I sure did. MAKE SURE you face the bleeder port UP lol.

Final product:

 

I didn't actually use the bleeder port to bleed the system - I have the funnel/bucket that sits on the radiator cap and you let the car run to temp and idle for 30 min or so. Seemed to work fine last time. Now to get it to a DIY car wash so I can pressure wash the engine bay to get rid of any residual antifreeze. FWIW, I'm still using the OEM Nissan blue.

 

It's a crazy amount of effort for what seems like a simple project, isn't it? Bet you're glad you won't have to ever do that again!

 

Love Vienna. Take the train to Graz (lots of italian influence from the Habsburg empire). You will want to live there :-)

 

Hobbit hands or an Antman suit made out of Pym Particles would have helped here.

My mechanic offered $50 to replace it, and I often wonder if I made the wrong decision with a DIY. Water under the bridge now. Glad it's done.