Found my unicorn!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
So my racing buddy from NC came down for the weekend and we wrung out my car.
Turns out the twitchiness might be due to the nut behind the wheel, IE me. I'm being too sensitive LOL and/or expecting it to switch from luxury car to beast mode depending on the mood of my right foot. Also our roads around here SUCK. He has a very well sorted E90 M3 and it's twitchier than mine on these roads. Might also be tires - the PS91s are a little too much tire for a street car. Gonna investigate Continentals per what Rochester uses next go-round.
Turns out the twitchiness might be due to the nut behind the wheel, IE me. I'm being too sensitive LOL and/or expecting it to switch from luxury car to beast mode depending on the mood of my right foot. Also our roads around here SUCK. He has a very well sorted E90 M3 and it's twitchier than mine on these roads. Might also be tires - the PS91s are a little too much tire for a street car. Gonna investigate Continentals per what Rochester uses next go-round.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
So even if it turns out the twitchy steering isn't due to the wheel bearings, the front right that I just replaced makes a nice scratch sound when spun by hand.... that ain't right.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
Reverse-pressing the hubs out. I really wonder why there aren't threaded bosses cast into the hub mounting flange for this purpose - it's not like there is a better tool to remove them as far as I know. Slide hammer sure wasn't getting the job done, and I can't imagine it would be worth the time to remove the whole knuckle and put it on a press.
Reverse-pressing the hubs out. I really wonder why there aren't threaded bosses cast into the hub mounting flange for this purpose - it's not like there is a better tool to remove them as far as I know. Slide hammer sure wasn't getting the job done, and I can't imagine it would be worth the time to remove the whole knuckle and put it on a press.

Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
Yeah, the 10 pound sledge wasn’t getting it. Too much galvanic corrosion between steel hub and aluminum upright.
At least with the abs sensor you can probably get to it with the wheel on still.
At least with the abs sensor you can probably get to it with the wheel on still.
Nope The back part of the hub has the sensor jammed so I can't pull it out without taking it off again!! DAMN!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
After a Charleston SC - Columbia SC - Atlanta GA - Charleston SC trip I think most of the twitchiness I can't attribute to crappy roads is gone. Huzzah!
Now to soften up the suspension a little for the aforementioned crappy roads - going back to G37 sport oem rear springs and probably 370 NON Nismo fronts. And I'm got a squeak in the front which is likely swaybar related.
Now to soften up the suspension a little for the aforementioned crappy roads - going back to G37 sport oem rear springs and probably 370 NON Nismo fronts. And I'm got a squeak in the front which is likely swaybar related.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
So the car sat since May of this year and naturally the battery died - I ordered a trickle charger but didn't get around to installing until early October. Battery no bueno. Optima Red top about 9 months old, less than 3 volts, couldn't charge past 7 volts.
So I picked up an Interstate MTX-24F. AGM, group 24 like the M-series battery and post-recall G battery, 750 CCA. But, since my life has been extra complicated this fall, no time to install the new battery.
On a plus note, the Interstate came from a distributor directly and I got a hefty vet discount, and they are going to try to resuscitate my Optima for free. They have a fancy charger with an AGM recovery setting.
I'm guessing at this time that it will be January before I touch the car. Out of state funeral, thanksgiving, December is full of after-hours work stuff, then Christmas through New Years is booked, and a week vacation in February... man, this adulting **** is *hard* sometimes. I just want to play with my car.
So I picked up an Interstate MTX-24F. AGM, group 24 like the M-series battery and post-recall G battery, 750 CCA. But, since my life has been extra complicated this fall, no time to install the new battery.
On a plus note, the Interstate came from a distributor directly and I got a hefty vet discount, and they are going to try to resuscitate my Optima for free. They have a fancy charger with an AGM recovery setting.
I'm guessing at this time that it will be January before I touch the car. Out of state funeral, thanksgiving, December is full of after-hours work stuff, then Christmas through New Years is booked, and a week vacation in February... man, this adulting **** is *hard* sometimes. I just want to play with my car.
Good for you with the trickle charger. I bought one 2 years ago, and use it throughout the year, particularly in the winter. It's plugged in right now, actually. 
AFAIK, OEM Nissan batteries are made by Interstate. 750 CCA should be absolutely fine, strong even.

AFAIK, OEM Nissan batteries are made by Interstate. 750 CCA should be absolutely fine, strong even.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
That's how I found out that the Red Top was dead-dead - the trickle charger wouldn't start, and then the big charger I have couldn't get it over 7 volts.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Charleston
After discussions with the finance department (IE my wife) I think I'll try to swap the lens covers with the AliExpress ones and paint/mod the insides myself. Even if I got the new black-interior ones I've seen on Amazon (and talked about in the Sedan Chat thread) I'd still have to open them up for the STI lenses and demon eyes, so...
Last edited by JME377; Feb 13, 2023 at 01:59 PM.








