For the traction control disable - the way to do this is to interrupt power to the Bosch accelerometer in the center console of the car. In my 6MT sedan, that means directly under the armrest - similar locations for other cars I'm sure as it needs to be near the rotational center of the car.

I made a bypass harness, so I didn't have to butcher the stock wiring:


This is from a broken accelerometer housing I got from the junkyard, with the attendant plug. Not an easy solder, but I got it done, and it's mechanically sound.

Ran two wires up to the left-hand trim panel next to the steering wheel - the one under the dash vent. Mine's vinyl-wrapped, yours is probably not, but should be obvious by the pictures. Here I chose a mil-spec potted (ie, waterproof) SPDT-center off with a cover, so your position choices are cover closed/system engaged, cover open-system off, and cover open-system off and power routed somewhere else. Not using that 3rd position yet, but the idea is that if I get froggy about making a track mode for this car that will be the signal to the Arduino or whatever I use for that.





I have this installed upside-down from what most people would consider normal so if I bump it with my knee, I don't accidentally turn the system off when I don't need to. The switch cover forces the switch into the system-on position when closed.

 

Also - damn my car is dusty. Thanks, new iPhone that takes great pics only when I don't need it to...

For Rochester to opine on, here's the current engine bay:



And yes I know it's dirty as well.

 

Thought I had phone mounting down too - metal panavise bracket from Amazon and MagSafe charger.

turns out the magnet was stronger than the construction lol.

 

@Rochester pointed out the traction switch looks huge in those pictures... it really isn't.

 

What MAF tubes are you using? 2.7" Can't tell from the oic. Did you have them on before the tune? If so how did they drive?

 

Not sure, I’ll have to dig to figure it out. 2.5 inner diameter with honeycomb aluminum air straighteners.

 

Where are the MAF sensors located? Are they in the alum tubing?

 

On the bottom of the silver parts.

 

So my battery decided that it doesn't do cold cranking amps any more..

Called Autozone, Advance, O'Reilleys, and Interstate. Apparently group 35 batteries are part of the supply chain crisis - I'm being told week-2 weeks for a battery. Bought an Optima red-top on Amazon that promised 1 day delivery... we're on day 2 so dunno. Might have to buy whatever I can fit in there and cross my fingers so I can get to work.

 

Costco interstate is the way to go, assuming yours has it in stock. Every two or three years warranty exchange (sometimes its refund and repurchase) no questions asked. Warranty restarts and you do it again in 2 or 3 years.

 

Home depot has a battery to fit ours (it may also have the one a bit larger made for the M that also fits ours tightly). Most of the time, I found the ones at Home Depot have a better warranty as well as better CCA than comparable

 

Costco didn't have anything when I called. Skipped the Wal Mart and Sams Club.

Our home depots do not sell car batteries... wth?

Optima came in today and after install, and replacing the positive terminal again, she's good to go.

 

@JME377 I think these are the ones: https://performancemrp.com/i-3049773...tegory:1389188

2.75" OD, 2.5" ID. with straightener screens. I bought them used, so not 100% sure of provenance, but the undercut ends are a specific thing of theirs, so I think that's it.

 

Get a group 24f battery. Same battery as the M37, I've got it in my car and it fits under without any issues. Should be about the same price but it should offer a bit more capacity.

 

I'll keep that in mind when I need another one. Interstate makes a pretty lightweight AGM battery in a normal-looking package.