NOICE! Hate to be a PITA but can you snap a quick pic of the rear spring set up?
I can't find any pics of this particular (the Basis) installed.

 

Not unless I remove the wheel.

What's up? Tein's Top seat against the upper bucket, adjustable rings against the top seat, thin nylon bushing against the ring, spring with the flat cut edge against the bushing/ring, and the other end in the lower bucket.

As far as installation tips... I wasn't there. (Mechanic)

So... you didn't get an instruction or itemization sheet either, eh? I thought that was strange, too.

 

Nope. But I got 2 cool stickers that I quickly installed one on my Macbook Air
I got the top end but not sure how the bottom of the spring sits on the lower arm. Wondering if the OEM spring is flat or if there is a rubber isolator that you reuse that fits the spring in.

 

The OEM spring is not flat. Nor is the lower bucket end of the Tein Spring. Only the top of the rear Tein Spring is cut flat against the adjustable rings.

Yes, you reuse the rubber isolator in the bucket.

 

OK. Now I see. Thanks!

 

Glad to hear you're getting them dialed in and are at a height that will work well w/ your front drop. This is some good info you're gathering for anyone else considering these parts. Would be nice to have some pics when you need to remove a tire for whatever reason
Looking forward to the SRR

 

Having raised the rear in the shop yesterday, and driving around a whole lot, things have settled as expected.

Here are today's measurements:



This confirms what my eyes are telling me... that the height is damn near perfect, but the driver's side is just a hair off, and could stand to be raised another rotation on the CO rings. Since there are 10 threads per inch on the CO's, then if I can squeeze one more rotation out of the driver's side, it should be golden. I'm going to give that a go myself tonight or this weekend. (And yes, Brad, I'll take a picture for you )

Like I said yesterday... feeling better and better about this every day.

If I had to guess, I'd say the rear camber was currently at -1.8* to -2.0*. Whatever it is, I would like just a couple tenths deeper neg camber when getting it aligned on Monday. That's going to be interesting, how that works out at the alignment shop.

 

This morning, I turned the driver's side rear coil rings downward one thread, which is an effective 1/10th inch, and addresses yesterday's measurement results. Based on recent experience, I'll be driving it around again for a while before making an assessment. Actually, I'm good with current state... I'll just wait until after Monday's alignment.

Turning it really wasn't so bad. You have to use both spanner wrenches at the same time, in order to loosen the lock ring. Then turn the bottom ring with the single spanner wrench. Use an open palm, so you don't shred your knuckles. And only expect to turn between 1-3 notches at a time. For a full rotation, that would be anywhere from 10 to 20 tugs. There's a notch in one of the ring teeth for you to assess progress. (see second pic in next comment)

And my mechanic was right... there's barely a 1/4" gap between the SPC camber arm and the Eibach Swaybar. However, both components move in unison up/down, so no worries there. Here's a pic anyway:

 

That would be this morning. Here you go:



This next picture really puts it in perspective. The adapters are nearly at full extension... there's probably 3/8" to 1/2" of additional threads left (i.e. 4 to 5 threads) that the rings could still move downward on. I believe that would put the car at an even 27" ride height, floor to fender. It's difficult to judge exactly, because those threads are behind the top run of the spring. But you can fit your hand and fingers up into the middle of the spring and guess by feel as compared to the width of the spring rung.

IDK what Tein recommends regarding maximum placement on those rings, but honestly, I wouldn't be comfortable going all the way to the last thread, for no particular reason except instinct; (not a mechanical engineer). Besides, my target here on this project is 26.75", and that's where I am.

With 14-15 threads showing, the car is exactly at 26.75" floor to fender on all four corners. So clearly if I wanted to *drop* the rear of the car (i.e. raise the rings) another 1.5", I could. I won't, because that seems silly to me, but some people really dig going low.

Some simple math, and that means I could drop the rear to 25.25" floor to fender. (Again, I won't... LOL)

 

Thanks John.

 

Rochester, when adjusting the height in the rear, do you experience a lot of resistance? I installed my rears and both sides experience a lot of resistance when adjusting but the fronts are nice and smooth when adjusting so I'm wondering if that's normal!?!

 

You're welcome, Mysterious Person from my Past.

Yep. It isn't easy. Requires a fair amount of force. That's why I said use an open palm on the spanner wrench, instead of a closed fist, otherwise you will rip open your knuckles.

Did you know there's such as thing as a long-handled spanner wrench? I didn't until just now. Probably should have bought one. Heck, I might just anyway.

 

Yeah and rent them out when your done! I am guessing this is a tool you use once and put away. Think it would be a good idea to put a white hash mark on the threaded collar so you could count the amount of turns you did?

 

You mean this?



It would be better still if there were a mark every quarter turn.

As for counting threads... driver's side is at 14 +/-, whereas passenger side is 13 +/-.

Like I said, the components keep leading you to thinking this is an exact science, when the reality is these things just aren't.

 

I saw that but I wondered if you put a hash on the thread collar so you know the exact spot you pass that mark with. I guess you can put a spot on the spring and do it that way.