Just got alignment. SAI/IA concern
Just got alignment. SAI/IA concern
So I just got an alignment, little over a week after getting Eibach pro kit installed. The front camber seemed to be a decent amount out of spec. rear is also just on the cusp of being acceptable. Toe is fine all around, Caster is fine up front. But there is a significant difference with the SAI and IA. (see pic below). After googling why this would be and what the effects are I found this:
"If SAI is GREATER than specifications and camber is LESS than specifications, but the included angle is on the money, it’s a sure bet the strut tower is leaning in at the top."
Is it something to be concerned about? Has anyone seen deviations in SAI/IA of ~2* like this? Is there anything to be done, or is my right front strut essentially just bent??
"If SAI is GREATER than specifications and camber is LESS than specifications, but the included angle is on the money, it’s a sure bet the strut tower is leaning in at the top."
Is it something to be concerned about? Has anyone seen deviations in SAI/IA of ~2* like this? Is there anything to be done, or is my right front strut essentially just bent??
Might shoot a PM to TVPostSound, he's a good source for this stuff, I'm not so clear on the SAI/IA relationships and the true cause for it to go way off on some lowered vehicles. Here's another thread and you'll notice on his alignment sheet the SAI/IA seems quite bizarre too 
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...amber-kit.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...amber-kit.html
SAI on a McPherson strut suspension, is technically the angle of the strut itself.
From the mounting point at the strut tower, to the lower ball joint.
As camber is the angle of the wheel.
As camber being equal on both sides with FIXED arms, I assume you didn't replace the arms with adjustable.
Caster is also equal.
I would probably rule out arms and knuckle/spindle.
Now looking at the left being 1 degree on the low side, and the right being 1 degree on the high side, it would be hard to say one strut is bent in and the other is bent out!!
If the subframe was shifted, then camber would be out on both side in opposite directions.
I would concur that the strut towers are the first thing to examine.
How are the body gaps, at the hood, even?
Fender alignment at the doors leading edge?
One could imagine hitting a pot hole on the left front wheel so hard, the strut bottoms out bends the strut tower inward 1 degree, and if you had a strut brace the force carried to the right tower and bent it out 1 degree.
Lastly, if the car drives straight, the wheel returns to center with no issue, then you can live with it!!
Can you take it to another shop and confirm the readings on another machine??
From the mounting point at the strut tower, to the lower ball joint.
As camber is the angle of the wheel.
As camber being equal on both sides with FIXED arms, I assume you didn't replace the arms with adjustable.
Caster is also equal.
I would probably rule out arms and knuckle/spindle.
Now looking at the left being 1 degree on the low side, and the right being 1 degree on the high side, it would be hard to say one strut is bent in and the other is bent out!!
If the subframe was shifted, then camber would be out on both side in opposite directions.
I would concur that the strut towers are the first thing to examine.
How are the body gaps, at the hood, even?
Fender alignment at the doors leading edge?
One could imagine hitting a pot hole on the left front wheel so hard, the strut bottoms out bends the strut tower inward 1 degree, and if you had a strut brace the force carried to the right tower and bent it out 1 degree.
Lastly, if the car drives straight, the wheel returns to center with no issue, then you can live with it!!
Can you take it to another shop and confirm the readings on another machine??
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