The only connector you could have handled would be for the idiot light. Being that it illuminates indicates it is connected. At least.

What exactly is the light doing? Just staying lit? Blinking?

Not all code scanners are the same. Most have had good results with a simple Bluetooth OBD dongle and the OBD FUSION app (with Nissan/ Infiniti "add-on"). Not saying to go that route just an option.

Any chance you can take the car to a parts store and have them scan it for faults? Most do this at no charge.

There is a self-diagnostic function built into the SRS system. This link will bring you to the service manuals for these cars. Just navigate to the year and chassis of your car ('Vert) and download the SRC (SRS Airbag Control System) section and it will describe how to activate and interpret the self-diagnostic.

 

Thank you once again! As updates, got over 20, so took apart, put old unit in, did the same thing, put new unit in and made sure all connected and same thing. However, at least able to somewhat troubleshoot and looks like a coincident *maybe*. Which then brings me to the self diagnosis you pointed me to. The pattern indicated either the battery voltage was less than 9 volts (seems unlikely given the car still started), there’s an intermittent fault in past OR system malfunctioning/self diagnosis result is not eased after repair.
Finally, thinking of making a new post regarding convertibles because now everytime I get out the drivers window drops down a little, then when locked drops again. Not sure why, but it’ll be a problem if it rains for example. I’ll check as well but also I think the seat memory buttons aren’t working (I know they were prior).
I’ll try and hook my battery up to my battery tender and see if that helps with some of this bizarre behavior.
Overall I’m just frustrated, I like my family to ride with me but I need these electrical gremlins to go away.

 

Just have to reset the window system. Easy peasy 🤞

Window Reset

As for the other issue, seems that something, somewhere, needs to be reset. What, not 100% sure...

 

Phew, at least that’s an easy fix, you’re a fount of knowledge! I did not realize the window issue was even a thing this! There are so many weird little electrical things (I was/am a Volvo guy and was excited to be away from their electrical gremlins!) and being the convertible model certainly throws things for a loop!
I’m thinking since it’s a vert and didn’t realize I had to cycle the top after the battery like you mentioned above maybe that was the beep issue, the beeping would sync with the flashing red car. I’m thinking I’ll try putting the fuse back unless you think that’s a dumb idea (I’m not getting the beep beep after pulling the fuse and cycling the top, but the red key car is still there when I’m near with keys, could that be a vert issue or is that indicating a steering lock issue? I pulled the fuse when the car was on).
I have the “car scanner app” (I have one of those elm327 or whatever Bluetooth), but I may purchase the one you mentioned since it works for others. Does it support not only reading but clearing codes like the srs? Also, does the 2010 have a bms just in case as the battery currently is from 2020 which may explain some of the behavior with the bitter cold less than 10 degrees out here.

 

Volvo... their reputation for being paramount in safety is always muddled by being penultimate in electrical issues. Never met a Volvo yet that didn't have some sort of electric gremlin lurking... Could be worse, it could be BMW with their endless programming loops. Anyway...

Your 'Vert is basically a Coupe with a moving roof- except for the roof and a few other details, treat it like a Coupe. The "roof relearn" is quite common after the battery has been disconnected. The roof relies on a ton of hall sensors and switches to know where the roof is physically during the 42-step operation to "complete the orchestra." When the battery is disconnected, the RHT can lost its stored memory. A relearn usually returns the roof to normal.

As for the fuse- if it were me I'd leave it pulled. While there is no foretelling if the steering lock module would ever fail in your car, it is cheap insurance against a "what if" and history has proven that these modules fail, without warning, and almost always under the most uninviting locations and circumstances. Like I said prior, I pulled mine so long ago I can't remember when, but it does not affect the car at all. This is one of those "no harm/ no foul" situations. However, it is your car so do as you feel is right.

Is the RED KEY light steady lit or flashing? It is normal for the light to flash ≈1x/sec. It is also normal for the light to turn on briefly when you first lock the car and close the door- this is the "security system" arming phase. It usually turns off after a few seconds and resumes its 1x/sec. flash. Clarify the behaviour if you can.

I am not familiar with "car scanner app." I know the OBDFusion works (but you have to purchase the add-on for Nissan/ Infiniti). Keep in mind I have the iOS version, I do not know how well it works with Android (I switched to iPhone after my Samsung S7edge was too "outdated" to work anymore).

I would take the car to a chain store and have them scan for any codes.

 

Ha, yeah, loved my Volvos for safety, but the electrical issues got somewhat old. We've had mainly Hondas and Volvos for the past 20 years and the simplicity of Hondas is nice. However, they've never done it for me like infiniti's and specifically G35 so I couldn't wait to get a G when I could...
I have Iphone, so if the obd fusion works well with that, seems reasonable. I couldn't tell, but my basic elm327 Bluetooth device should work with this, correct? Does the app have srs reset function, etc, I couldn't tell by reading.
As far as the red key car, I'll leave the fuse out then. In the meantime, I'm going to try and trickle charge my battery this weekend, get it back buttoned up after my recent switch back and forth and then I'll let you know if the red car behavior persists. I wasn't sure if the fuse could have been part of it with it being a convertible, but got it and will just leave it alone. I'm also going to read and see if I how to resync my fobs just in case that’s part of the issue. After all that I’ll cycle the roof again.
Regarding the srs light pattern, it's odd that it seems to think it just needs reset but the passenger air bag sign remains lit on my center console. Seems like if it were the sensor that goes bad it would have given me a different pattern, correct? Would the 360 airbag thing work in this scenario since it didn’t seem to be a sensor issue or only when it's throwing codes? I’m just thrown by the center console still showing up lit. I did see that the dealership can reset the passenger module to “0” wonder if that would help?
Thanks once again!

 

Was always a Honda/ Acura man until their design strategy changed and they began to cater solely to the soccer-mom crowd (MY OPINION) with only sedan and xUV offerings. If it has more than 2-doors, I am NOT interested at all. Anyway...

AFAIK, the OBDFusion app should be able to read/ reset SRS codes as well as other systems. The ELM327 dongle you have may/ not work... depends on the dongle itself. I believe OBDFusion has a list of compatible/ ie. "recommended" dongles that work with their app. I've used the BAFX BT unit for years and it works well with my G and Zed/4 (though limited on the BMW).

These cars are super sensitive to voltage drops. Unless this car is a daily driver I would recommend keeping it on a tender (all 4 of mine are).

All the light on the center console indicates is that the passenger-side airbag is disarmed. In the event of a collision it will not deploy. This could be due to several reasons the main being the sensor in the passenger seat (bottom) cushion. If this sensor is the problem you should read a B1018 code. Now, Infiniti will tell you that the sensor can only be replaced with a new cushion (around $1K) but there are other options out there to emulate the sensor like the Airbag360 you referenced as well as a replacement sensor pad (thread).

I am not familiar with the dealership resetting the Occupancy System to "0." Not sure what is being referenced there.

 

Haha, first, agree on Honda. Their last great cars were the s2000 and accord coupe, love their shifters though (my first car was an 86’ legend and man, I still remember how well that shifted and how smooth that old v6 was, though very underpowered). And agreed, we have an Odyssey, traded in my g35 for it haha, still have nightmares about that!
The post I found regarding the reset to “0” was this: https://www.infinitiscene.com/thread...at-help.36076/

In the meantime I have the battery hooked up to my trickle charger and given from 2020, will also probably buy a new battery.
I thought about purchasing the passenger seat 360 sensor, but I’ve not gotten any codes so I’m not sure it’ll work without codes being thrown?
I’ll see where I’m at once the battery is charged up, I think the battery must have some of the issue because didn’t start until the brutal cold…

 

Just went through that thread that you linked and I have no idea what they hell they are talking about. The "NAV mod" they refer to is forbidden to discuss here, however, I doubt seriously that has anything to do with the SRS light issue as most have not done the NAV mod in the first place. Suffice it to say, "from personal experience," that thread is borderline rubbish.

The Airbag360 will function regardless if there is a code set or not. Cross that bridge when you get to it.

Either way, get the battery fully charged and then go from there.

 

Ha, good to know, I was looking more at the passenger seat stuff than the nav mod and completely missed that. Regardless, agreed and will keep you posted once battery is charged. VERY helpful to know though that the airbag 360 will work regardless of code, so that can be a last resort.

 

Well, good news on all fronts. The SRS did not go off even with full charge, so likely will to go the airbag360 route. However, even better and trying to cycle the roof down and then up, it got stuck on the closed cycle. Trunk is down, it is not latched down though.


I also cycled the window up down before this and it didn’t seem to want to work, but I’ll work that out later and see if that’s a problem, this is obviously a bigger problem.
Off the negative went again, I’ll see if that lets me operate it, but won’t respond either to open again or close all the way.
I’m at a loss, before I took the d$&@ thing apart roof was operational, no codes being thrown, no srs/airbag off.

 

First, replacing a radio unit is not responsible for all these "issues" that seemingly keep popping up. There is zero link between SRS, RHT, or PWC systems and the AV. A bad/ weak battery, definitely a link, but not a radio.

Second, the roof latch issue is not a common one but it has happened before. In some cases the roof panel "bounces" off of the upper cowl panel (top of windshield) before the latches have a chance to grab the pins and lock it into place. In the event you can not get the roof to open electrically here is a thread on manually manipulating the roof latch.

What do you know of the history of this car? Overall battery health? The RHT on these 'Verts (and my Zed/4 is no different) are power hungry beasts. If the battery is not fully "up to snuff" then it might need replacing- relatively easy on these cars compared to the boat anchor I have

I can sense the frustration but am confident that it will get sorted. Just take a breath when needed, take a shot of your favorite poison to clear your head (rum for me), then carry on.

 

Haha, ok, message received! This was a one owner car until sold in November. It mainly was serviced at dealerships, so I likely can get more records there, but much of the maintenance is listed on the carfax (brake fluid, trans, etc). That said, I do not know history beyond that and my (albeit rudimentary) scan tool not showing any codes. I did pay for the obd fusion so will scan that once the battery is sorted.
Thanks for the reorientation, I’ll work on the battery and replace it, not just hook it up to my charger, though it did take a charge that seems to be a common denominator. I’ll take a look at your link for the top.
Thank you once again for your contribution, not only here but many threads I see your posts pop up and your advice is appreciated and valued!
Mike

 

Updates, thank you for pointing me in the right direction. First, replaced battery with agm given the hungry nature of the car. Second, the manual closing worked and though slightly afraid to open it, no reason to in the winter, so closed it stays. Third, the windows work properly now.
After I did the open/close, the beeping went away. The red car with the key still flashes, it flashes fast at first after turning off car, then something like every 5-10 seconds until started again. From what I’ve read, this is normal behavior, correct and is just the normal security stuff? I don’t believe my car has a little red light on the dash otherwise like my Volvos.
Finally, the dash 2nd passenger airbag stays illuminated in the bottom left which I’m assuming is the reason the airbag reset won’t take and continues to blink while driving, so I’m going to scan for codes then based on that probably purchase the airbag360 mod.
Thank you for all your help!

 

Might I suggest you use a battery tender (maintainer) on the car for when it's not being used. If this is possible where you are. I have 4 in use now but none of mine are daily drivers so... Just a suggestion.

The red car (security) light should stay lit for 30sec. when the system is first armed. Then it should "blink" 1x every 2-2.5 seconds. Are you saying your light is displaying different behaviours?

Check for codes then go from there with the SRS.