Thanks for the response, I’ll take a look at the behavior tomorrow when I’m out and about with work and will also try to scan tomorrow as well with updates after. And agreed, I have now attached a battery tender (should have done that to the earlier battery while messing around with the srs reset).

 

Confirmed that the red car with key stays illuminated for 30ish seconds and then blinks every 3 seconds or so which appears to be normal behavior.
I haven’t scanned for codes yet, but was wondering. When I connected them “fusion “ app it started the engine had to be off and just the ignition on to do a scan. I’ve scanned with other tools with the engine on, is that a particular problem/no no if I’m not planning on clearing codes?

 

That is normal behaviour for the red light. Good news on that front.Now that is one question I just do not know if there is a right or wrong answer. I've always been told to scan/ clear codes under KOEO condition never KOER as the latter is used to monitor / log real -time data.

Perhaps others will have a more proper explanation.

However, I would err on the side of caution and just scan/ clear under KOEO conditions.

 

I had the time to finally scan using the fusion app. I have uploaded the codes, looks like the seat sensor is on there, so will have to move forward with the Airbag360.
In the meantime, the fiction app picked up on a lot more codes that weren’t pulled by simple obd reader. Anything on that list I need to be worried about? Seems most codes were benign, but did see some speed sensor/ecm codes…Additionally, even though the fusion app gave the option at the bottom to clear codes, it wouldn’t do it… Any insight is appreciated!

 

A lot of those codes could be the result of the weak battery/ voltage drop. I would clear all of the codes and go from there. If the B1018 persists then, unfortunately, you'll have to look into the Airbag360 route. Strange that popped up just as you replaced the radio. Though I am not a fan of coincidences stranger things can happen.

Assuming the car performs, runs and drives fine I would not sweat any of those codes.

 

Thank you for weighing in, nothing seemed to be super important, but wasn’t sure. So far so good, drives/seems to run well. The Bluetooth phone connection microphone is apparently not great, though I had read about that ahead of time. Anyway, despite paying for the Infiniti stuff on the fusion app it didn’t seem to want to clear the codes despite tapping on that option as seen on my screenshots. Not sure why that’s a problem, but thought I’d mention it.
Thank you once again on this journey, certainly not how I thought it would start, but I think it should at the very least have a fun middle part!

 

No worries. Trust, on that first warm, sunny day of the spring/ summer season when you press the button and the roof opens, it will be well worth it. That's how I feel with my Zed/4.

Keep us updated.

 

Will do, so far no further issues, I’ll try to clear the codes again but likely will resort to the airbag360.
Off topic, but I had closely looked at z4’s, but ruled out since only two seats, which generation did you end up with? I like the hardtops (obviously given the g37 choice), but something to be said about simpler ragtops. I really like them though and once empty nester (still hot at least 10 years) looking at those or maybe 370z, rarely do I purchase a newer car…

 

I am the opposite in that I prefer the RHT vs. ragtops. Simpler, yes, but too tempting for vandals, thieves, and the lot (can't count how may times cars at the train station would have their tops sliced "for the hell of it") as well as environmental nuisances. I had REALLY wanted the Jaguar F-Type but... ragtop. The only reason I did not get a G 'Vert was that I already have a Coupe and could not justify having basically 2 of the same thing. My Coupe will be with me to the end- it's or mine.

Initially, I wanted a F83 (M4) but finding one not: wrecked, "rebuilt," modified, and not beat to hell, in Sakhir Orange, and reasonably priced is more rarer than a unicorn's farts. In the end found a good deal on a E89 Z4 SDrive 35is- 3.0L I6, twin turbo, DCT and, in true BMW fashion, a monster of a driving machine. This was after almost 2-years of "semi-moderate" searching:



The E89 was the last series of the Zed/4 in RHT as the newest generation, the G29, is, sadly, ragtop. No regrets except, at times, I wish I had waited for a F83 but, even today, they are uber-rare, in my specs at least. As for 2-seaters, I am no stranger to roadsters. It is only "me, myself, and I" so...

 

Beautiful car! That was the generation I wanted as well, but AGREED (darn autocorrect) not super common (around here seemed enough 28 when I was looking) but didn’t think it was time for a true roadster yet…I also eventually want a manual and as far as I know the 35 didn’t come with a manual, just the 28 and 30?
Regardless, finally able to clear the codes, only one is the airbag and starting lock so far, so battery definitely played a large role, here’s hoping continues!!
With your g coupe, you think 235/50 and 255/45 would fit? I want just a tick wider and taller? I’m not looking to ever lower it. I was thinking spacers but I don’t think I want to mess with the geometry or reliability.
i was also thinking of getting a third party warranty, Premier was quoting me 90/mth for total 2700 with 5 year total warranty with 100 dollar deductible. Only thing really worried about is gallery gasket and the top given the cost, but all other stuff seems to be pretty solid so I’m not sure if it’s worth the gamble, I don’t usually get warranties as I do the work myself usually (simple stuff like plugs, brakes, etc).

 

So far all the codes are staying away EXCEPT the friendly b1018. I installed the airbag360 and the center console “passenger airbag off” light stayed on and the srs light keeps blinking. I tried clearing the code but it doesn’t go.
I emailed airbag360 support and they recommended using an obd scanner rather than an app and/or do the manual way with the ignition.
I’m not sure either of those will work though if the passenger airbag is off light stays on, seems like that is the trigger for the srs to stay on. Is the emulator working?

 

Last update. I *think* I'm good. The fusion app did not clear the srs code BUT used an ancel obd scanner that did. It has now stayed off and I use a belt clip to keep the seatbelt light off unless I have a passenger.
Now I just need to fix the seatbelt retractor (thinking about getting them from eBay) on the passenger/driver side (loosely/slowly retracts and gets caught in door). Then figure out what spacers, if any, to get then done!!
Thanks for all the help!!!

 

Sorry for the delay, I was away on a much needed holiday...

Glad that you seem to have all of the bugs ironed out. Odd that Fusion didn't clear the code as that it is what it is supposed to do. Either way I am happy you are good to go.

There are plenty of folks here on the forum that are way more knowledgeable on wheels and spacers and fitment concerns. All that is gobbledygook to me.

I am not a fan of any extended warranty nonsense. They are all ripoffs (MY OPINION, and I am unanimous in that) as I have heard too many horror stories. Others will swear by them. The gallery gasket may or may not ever be a issue (I have a 2008 and, thank God, zero issues). The only "serious" issue with the 'Verts are the flapper gears that get stripped. Fortunately, there are plenty of guides that show how to repair same if you are a competent DIY'er. With any car it is a gamble, ultimately, the choice to purchase is up to you and your wallet- just be sure to read the fine print first.

Attached is a screenshot from Wiki that has the breakdown of engine and trans options:

Unfortunately, I am at the age where constantly shifting gears is becoming "problematic" which is why I opted for the DCT over the 6MT. My beater pickup is a 5MT so I get my fix there but even after a few miles it gets tedious. I will say the DCT takes some getting used to but, in the end, it is a beast.

Again, glad you have the codes sorted. Please keep us updated...

 

Forgot to mention, did you try washing the webbing? A small bucket of the hottest water you can muster and some strong detergent will clean the crud from the belt webbing. Just unwind the belt as far as it will go and use a large binder clip to "lock" it into place. Best to let it soak all day/ night. Repeat if needed. You would be surprised how much dirt, sweat, and crud gets "embedded" in that material.

Once cleaned, dry thoroughly with a towel then let it air dry for a day or two before removing the clip and letting it retract into the mechanism.

 

Thanks for the tip on the seat belt! I’ll try that first before buying new ones. It doesn’t appear they will be that difficult to replace if I need to. Additionally, though I’m concerned about the top,
I think I’m going to pass on the warranty as I think having to have a shop service the car/I can’t really be sure that what breaks on the top would be covered (it says the motor/hydraulics, but I can’t be sure the sensors are covered). Your bmw has a similar top, do you do any of the lube processes to keep it working well?
I was looking at taller tires for the potholes here, but I think I’ll just get one size up wider and go from there eventually.
Thank you once again, I believe you’re really the only one active still on the forum and not only that but a fount of knowledge! Still loving the car especially now I can drive it without Bluetooth/airbag working!
Next step may be a grom or similar unit for CarPlay. I didn’t want to really do it but my wife said the car microphone is terrible so I may end up doing that. I have to do too many other things before I get to that though and TBH, I took the stereo apart and plugged/unplugged it so many times I’m tired of it !!!