2010+ will be fine.

I would return the other and try for that one- though my last advice fell flat. As long as it is definitely from a 'Vert I'm sure you'll be fine

🤞

 

Works! But now getting airbag warning for the 2nd airbag and also intermittent beeping with the car immobilizer picture (red car with key). I was careful to not damage the ribbon connector, but not sure if there is anything aside from that messing things up radio wise?

 

Just search the forum for "Airbag Reset." I'm guessing you did not disconnect the battery first?

Not sure what you are referring to with the other light? Radio has nothing to do with IVIS (red key icon).

Any other symptoms?

 

Thank you for replying so quick! Just so you’re aware, I did not restart my cars, these are just random pics that show what I’m talking about.

I wish it was that easy, but the negative was off the battery the whole time. Once all hooked up it all worked at first and didn’t have the airbag signal on the dash/ passenger airbag lit up on the center stack. I’ll read the reset thread, odd it would happen afterward and wasn’t on before. The airbag light only came on while driving.

The red car I’m talking about is the one on the dash near the airbag light. My car does not have the yellow light, just the red car and it flashes and beeps 3 times intermittently. I read it could be the key battery (replaced both fobs), the key signal module or the immobilizer. This definitely was not happening before I replaced the stereo. Once again, the picture below is not mine, but the red car is what I have. The beeping is very annoying and only happens when the car is off. The car still starts.

 

The airbag light should reset easily with the procedure outlined in the DIY SRS Reset thread. That light is common whenever the center stack is opened up. If the light persists, then you might a separate issue (a/k/a the "seat cushion sensor" hassle). However, I am not a fan of coincidences so try the reset first and go from there.

Now, the red light is a different ballgame altogether. First and foremost, when your car is OFF/ Locked, does the STEERING WHEEL LOCK? If so, I WOULD STRONGLY SUGGEST that, WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, you pull the STEER LOCK fuse located in the IPDM/er (fuse box next to battery) while you still can. Here is a thread that explains what to do.

Again, I am not a fan of coincidences but the STEER LOCK fuse should be pulled as a matter of prevention for once that module fails your car is bricked with a expensive repair bill.

The beeping may or may not be related to the RED KEY light. Is the light flashing or steady on and does the beep appear "in sync" with the light? I guess I am trying to determine if the beep if for the roof- which sometimes needs to be "re-initialized" whenever the battery is disconnected. More details might help...

That said, I would once again disconnect the battery and make sure that all of the connectors that you handled are in the right spot and fully seated. I can find no link between IVIS and the AV headunit that you replaced, therefore, the issue has to be something else.

 

Holy cow, never thought it could be something like that given no issues before the replacement! That said, I’ve been working and not able to drive it, BUT I’ll check next time I’m home to see if the steering lock is on (which seems like it would be a GOOD thing right now if I understand correctly as that means module not bad yet, which I expect given the car starts still) when car is off and then I’ll do the procedure to pull the fuse with the car on. So it seems if I catch it early then the module can go bad but it won’t be affecting things as the fuse is pulled, so it’ll be a permanent “fix” correct?
I’ll worry about the srs after that’s taken care off, then reset that and report back if all is well. Thank you! I’m hopeful, sounds like both are fixable at this point in time, thank you once again for your timely advice!!

 

I'm not saying definitively that the steering lock is your issue, but usually whenever the yellow and/or red key light(s) come on that becomes the main suspect, especially on pre-2012 cars. When the module fails the car becomes a brick with repair costs $750+.

Pulling the fuse- WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING- permanently disables the module in the released (go) state. It is permanent and will not affect the car. Mine has been disconnected for years with no issues. It is cheap "peace of mind" insurance and one of those items that should be addressed before they become a problem- like the heater hose connector, sunroof drain, etc.

Go from there.

 

I have not gotten the time to undergo fix, just wanted to clarify wansnt trying to be sarcastic in case it came across that way, it was meant to be tongue in cheek in response to all the electric issues I’ve run into in a short period of time given just bought and haven’t even driven more than 10 miles...
With that in mind, I’ll search the heater issue you mentioned, is there anything else I need to look into for a 2010 g37 convertible preventative wise?
Thank you once again for all your timely help, I’m hopeful your intervention came in time for me to address the steering lock! Of note, the only light I’ve gotten was the red car lock one, not the yellow one so I’m hopeful that is a good sign! I’ve been working overtime this last week so hopefully will have time to address later this week!
Mike

 

No worries. Nothing was said or inferred sarcasm. Besides, I'm a thick-skinned NY'er who bites back, lol. I understand the frustration, however.

Aside from the heater hose and the steering lock, these cars are relatively bulletproof given they are cared for and not beat to hell.

About the only "Achilles Heel" with the 'Verts are the flapper gears which can be another costly repair but which can be prevented. This post explains the issue and proven repair. While this may or may not ever happen to your car, it is something to be aware of nonetheless. Perhaps others who actually own 'Verts will chime in with their insight.

 

First, good to hear, I like liberal use of sarcasm and hyperbole, so I’m glad I didn’t offend, it’s hard for me to tell sometimes how I come across (I am from the midwest so of course have to over analyze if we’ve offended or not lol).
Second, I haven’t messed with the SRS yet, I started the car, pulled the appropriate fuse, and it still started just fine. But, still getting the beep beep and the flashing red car with the key, so maybe not rule immobilizer but the key module maybe? It seems of no issues driving several times and then issues when the new head unit was put in.
I’ll work on the srs light but I couldn’t stand having it keep beeping so I unplugged the negative again. No other symptoms that I could tell right now at least. The yellow light was not blinking before and is still not blinking, just the srs and the red car near the srs light blinking and beeping while car is off.

 

I tried both the ignition on, blinking, then off, as well as the longer method and both did not reset the light, even for a moment. I agree about coincidences and it seems like something I had to have done. I even bought a code reader/clearer and it said there was no code or fault, so I’m not sure what’s the issue…it has the light on the center console which says passenger 2 airbag off and then the srs light blinking.
I *think* that the other issue (red car with key) was because of the convertible top (a thread said you need to cycle the top after replacing battery). Right now the srs is the biggest issue though.
i bought a new ribbon cable for srs signal that should come Friday so I’ll see if that works, but otherwise anything else I could have done or issue with the unit that could be causing this? Thank you once again!

 

What ribbon cable? Don't go throwing parts at an unknown problem.

Disconnect the battery and double check all of the connectors that you handled. Are you 100% sure everything is (1) in the right spot, and (2) fully seated? It is VERY easy to mix connectors up in that stack- especially at the UMAC amp (the white, plastic, rectangular box mounted atop the headunit). There are two connectors wrapped specifically with yellow tape that plug into this box- verify. Did you reuse yours, by chance?

Keep in mind these cars have a history of the passengwr-seat occupancy sensor "crapping out." Again, the timing is what throws me off.

 

I used the same white plastic box (the unit I purchased had one it came with it but I thought it would be better to use mine), I recently went through and double checked. I’m kind of tired of unplugging and replugging, but guess I could retrial the old unit and see if the airbag comes on with that. Also the cold (less than 20 here) has made things challenging for plastic. I’m pretty positive that I did all the yellow together like it was supposed to.


The ribbon cable I was meaning I took a picture.
I know I mentioned it, but it seems odd that the scanner would not have picked up the code, I bought it specifically because it can reset the airbag light but it was showing no code for the airbag.

 

That ribbon cable has nothing to do with the SRS light. The SRS light has its own dedicated harness connector and operates independent of both the preset switch panel (the clock one) and the multifunction switch block (the dial one).

Good that reused your existing amp.

Unless you regularly drive with passengers there is no harm with the passenger airbag disabled- at least until it warms up and you can dig into the issue deeper.

I still can not not find any correlation between the headunit and your symptoms...🥴

 

Last question for a bit, which connector is for the second air bag? I could at least double check that, or is that under the passenger seat somewhere? I still find it out the scanner isn't picking it up as a fault...?