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Spingjp, very nicely done. Would it be safe to say that mot if not all 12" subs would not fit largely due to the middle seatbelt anchor?

 

blazeplacid, did you get from this that the two connectors were used in series together, (exactly same pin out one male and other female) and not independently, in order to get the front L/R signals to the amp enabling removal to quickly go back to the HU powering the speakers? Like Lkoh's setup diagram mine should be the same although I didn't label the metra harnesses. See attached pics.

I want to add an amp and sub now and later add a processor + amp to power component speakers.

 

Nice work SpinJP and thanks for the pics...

I plan to do the same in my G37 Sedan non-Bose as well using an Audiocontrol LC6i...

I was reading about the Metra 70-7552 and 71-7552 Harness and it seem that you loose illumination on your Head-unit, is that true?

Thanks

 

No but you lose steering wheel control unless you tap splice connect them. They are not in the harness side 71? harness.

 

Great work and thanks for the detailed pictures! Really came out very nicely

 

Thanks m3clubracer!

Good to know...

 

Don't mean to revive an old thread, but I'm currently planning out an install for a 2011 G25x and had a few questions. Speakers are these Kappas from Infinity. Looks like I shouldn't need spacers.

I've decided against running a LOC. I purchased a RD900/5 from JL, and it seems prepared to take high-level signals.

I was thinking about running signal from the head unit using the Metra, but I hate the idea of losing steering wheel controls. Also, my installer has mentioned that he prefers to get his signals from the rear speakers.

1) Is there enough of a signal in the rears or would the head unit method give me a better signal with a broader range of frequencies?

2) Would I retain full use of my steering wheel controls if I tapped signal from the rears?

3) I'm not interested in changing out the rear door speakers. Is it possible to amplify my new components using the JL, but run the stock rear speakers from the head unit?

Sorry if these are rookie questions.

 

If you plan on running that JL amp you will need a LOC. That amp will not accept speaker level inputs.

1 - I would only tap into the fronts unless you can get an LOC with gain adjustment. Trial and error would be the best bet on the rear speakers. Your installer is trying to save time by only tapping into the rear speakers which I understand. I would still only recommend tapping into the front especially if you are going to run a 5 channel amp.

2 - The only way you would lose steering wheel control is by removing the factory head unit. Tapping into speaker wires will cause no issues.

3- You can power the rears via the headunit and power the other speakers via an amp.
You will probably fade the signal to the front because the rear speakers will sound terrible compared to a new set up in the front =)

 

I noticed the metra interconnect isn't a 1 to 1 interconnect between them, a bit hesitant to use it on my '11 g37 convertible.

I'm thinking more going to tap the input, or the outputs off the bose amp in the rear, about the same at a high level input, but otherwise hoping the amp can clean them up enough.

I've no room for a sub being a convertible, I'm just hoping to add some decent 6x9 in the rear and 6.5 components up front, likely JL, but looking at a small/mini amp to drive I can mount in the trunk still. Maybe a cleansweep or 360.3 type dsp for main front/rear, otherwise leave the center/headrest speakers off the bose...

Anyone else struggle with sound on a 'vert?