They are pretty narrow and once you lower the car I believe the offset is pretty jacked up. Not the best idea in the world to run spacers on the track.

Ah, ok that makes sense about a limited amount of room. I will check it out before ordering.

Nice slicks!

 

I have a coupe, so I have a bit more room everywhere, but I am also of the opinion that a x10 +34ish would fit with a 275 tire without too much modification. If you want to track, I would do a minimum of a x9.5 with a 255 (that's not that much of a stretch) unless your specific class prohibits it.

Splitter, which Enkeis were you looking at? I'm not sure the RPF1s in 18s will clear the brakes, but the NT03+M definitely will if you have a 2.5mm spacer, which is perfectly safe to run on a track.

 

I have the PF01 in 9.5" +35. I was looking at the RPF1 but that needs a 5-10mm spacer to clear brakes if I recall correctly and I didn't like the cost of the NT03, so I decided not to pursue the 10" rim. I also couldn't find anyone running a 285 tire, every example I could find of 10 and 10.5" wheels had 245-255 tire, which is why I got nervous about the actual clearance.

 

What oil do you guys usually run on track?

I typically use Mobil 1. I noticed when I went to change the oil that on the back of the bottle Mobil also makes a higher mileage 15,000 mile oil that is supposed to deal with heat even better. I always skipped that oil because I never go that long between oil changes, but might try it next time if it deals with heat even better than Mobil 1.

Anyone try the "high temp" 15,000 mile Mobil 1 oil on track with good results?

 

Same as you, probably. Mobil 1 full synthetic, 0W-30.

I've heard about the use of Ester oil since the VVEL system seems to like that, but I've not had any issues running what I have currently.

The high mileage/higher temp formula seems interesting, I might drop some in when I do my next oil change and report back. I do like 400 miles/week for work so that time will come soon enough.

 

I'm using Redline 5W-30 changing it every 3,500 miles, or after every track weekend (not autocross), whichever comes first. I'll be commuting in the car again in about 5 months, 300 miles a week, so we'll see if I keep the spending up...

 

i have NT03s. they clear my akebonos with alot of clearance....almost too much clearance. 18x10.5 +30 square on 275/40-18 Nfera SUR4s for autox

 

I finally ordered some of the Z1/Stillen brake cooling ducts. We will see how much creativity I have to use to get them to fit...

 

The 9.5 +27 NT03s don't. Haha. How's clearance at the front fender though?

 

I have a HPDE coming up at the Mosport DDT and wanted to get some opinions on brake pads for my G37 Sport Sedan. I am in the intermediate group.

Prices in Canadian $
EBC YellowStuff pads are: $209
G-Loc (very similar to CarboTech) pads: $273
CarboTech XP8: $286

With the price in mind, I am liking the yellowstuff pads and I suspect they will work well with my "not very sticky" RE970AS all season tires. (When they wear out, then RE-71R

The pads will only be in for the day of the event, then back to stock.

I await for the experts to chime in

 

Whatever pad you buy, be sure to bed them in so your old pad material has been scrubbed off the rotors. Also, green fade (pads) sucks. Been there, spun that.

 

The Stillen oil cooler apparently includes a thermostatic plate that only accepts a certain Fram filter or equivalent. 4DRZ, is this true? Has this been an issue for you when taking your car to the dealership for an oil change? Assuming you do go to the dealership for oil change.

I want the Stillen kit due to its good price point but wondering if I can swap in a thermostatic plate from a different manufacturer e.g. from the Z1 kit, which advertises that it is compatible with OEM oil filters.

The other thing I was thinking about was the size of the hosing. The Stillen kit uses 8AN hosing whereas the Z1 kit uses 10AN (thicker) hosing. 4DR, I know you installed the Stillen kit and have aftermarket sways like I do, have you inspected for any rubbing damage? Do you think 10AN hosing would have been doable?

Cheers.

 

Mosport is a fun track. A long drive for me, but I was there once a few years ago.

If your tires are close to wearing out and you plan to upgrade to RE-71R's soon you might want to consider a more aggressive pad for the track. Definitely get some Motul RBF600 or similar high temp fluid too.

Good questions. I usually change the oil myself and Fleet Farm in town has these filters regularly in stock. It is a Fram tough guard and part of the reason they use it is it is almost twice the size so much more filtration. Surprisingly, it is dirt cheap- about $5 so I usually get a number of them at the same time.

I was able to fit the tubing ok, I just routed things a bit differently. I also bought some rubber tubing (maybe 1") to wrap around the tubing in areas it would be in contact with other parts of the car. So far this has worked out really well.

I think you could fit larger tubing if you wanted to without much effort. The thing I am curious to see is if I left enough room for my brake ducts that I just got in the mail...

 

Went to the same autox course today, pretty much the same weather. The only different was I had my front strut bar off and I had fresh full synthetic oil.

This time, my oil temps hit a peak of 242.6, coolant a peak of 221. Interesting that the peak oil temp was 40F lower than with my old oil. I think my old oil was a synthetic blend and this time I went full synthetic. I don't know what the dealership put in there or why the temps were so much lower this time but I am pretty happy. That said, I was being mindful of my temps, giving the a car a break when needed.

This may give me reason to skip the oil cooler upgrade and go straight to wheels and tires. No plans to take the car on the track, anyway.

Will upload a video shortly. I am quite happy with the current setup, it's little oversteery but plenty of fun. I am still learning how to correct oversteer properly, which is hard with my current setup. I have Hotchkis rear sways at the middle setting (3 way) and front Eibach sway bars at the lower (2 way) setting. I am getting lots of lift off oversteer which I think it unusual given the slight bias of weight to the front and the multilink suspension setup. I may move the Eibach fronts to the higher setting and see if it fixes that issue.

Boss 302 mustang crashed at the event today. The driver overcorrected too hard and went off into a ditch . I had a chance to ride along in a 370Z Nismo. Although I was in the passenger seat, it felt remarkably similar to my G37 in the way that it behaved. We timed our laps to see what the difference was and I was maybe 0.5-1 second behind (27.x seconds vs. 26.x seconds, I don't remember exactly what he told me).

 

Fresh oil vs. old oil is probably better at absorbing heat a bit. Maybe ext. temps were slightly different too?

Sounds like it is time to tighten up the front sway and loosen up the rear. That should help with the oversteer.

Cool to hear that your car handles very similarly to a Nismo Z and is very close in lap times.