No crank/BCM replacement and FOB pairing
No crank/BCM replacement and FOB pairing
Hey all,I've been having an issue where my 2013 6MT Sedan would intermittently fail to start, and after a couple weeks it finally got to the point where no matter what it would just cycle from ACC->ON and then back off with no attempt to crank.
Checked my positive terminal fuse, ensured my cables were tight with no corrosion, charged/tested my battery, and have a clutch switch to swap and test. I have little faith that my clutch switch is the actual issue, and I'm also going to double check the IPDM fuses/relays, but it seems likely my BCM is the culprit here (issues started when it wouldn't even try to start after a car wash, though I have yet to see wetness on the floorboard).
I'm happy to replace the module on my own, yet I know it will require a re-pairing of my key FOBs, was curious if this is something I can just call a locksmith out to do after I replace the module or will it require an actual trip to the dealer (not sure how "available" the Nissan Consult software is to a locksmith vs dealership)? Also, if anyone has dealt with this and had something OTHER than the BCM cause the no crank scenario please feel free to chime in.
Checked my positive terminal fuse, ensured my cables were tight with no corrosion, charged/tested my battery, and have a clutch switch to swap and test. I have little faith that my clutch switch is the actual issue, and I'm also going to double check the IPDM fuses/relays, but it seems likely my BCM is the culprit here (issues started when it wouldn't even try to start after a car wash, though I have yet to see wetness on the floorboard).
I'm happy to replace the module on my own, yet I know it will require a re-pairing of my key FOBs, was curious if this is something I can just call a locksmith out to do after I replace the module or will it require an actual trip to the dealer (not sure how "available" the Nissan Consult software is to a locksmith vs dealership)? Also, if anyone has dealt with this and had something OTHER than the BCM cause the no crank scenario please feel free to chime in.
Another question, when starting the car and seeing the "Clutch + start button" icons on the dash is the clutch part meant to go away when pressed? Mine has never done that even when it was starting normally, but it seems some people mention it should in other threads.
Update: Got a better scan tool and saw that I had a previous U1000 code along with some others that were BCM related. Cleared them and they haven't returned, but I assume that's because I can't actually start the car and drive it around? Have a new positive terminal and fusible link arriving tomorrow, my 140A doesn't look blown, but its kind of tough to tell and I needed a new terminal anyway. Fingers crossed that is somehow magically the issue.
Final Update: Took the car to a shop today, turned out the issue was an aftermarket relay that was tapped into the clutch switch for some reason. It popped a fuse and the relay was water damaged. After cleaning up the wiring and replacing it with a waterproof relay the car starts every time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MyToeSis
Newbie Corner
4
Jan 29, 2024 06:28 PM






