Drivers door won't open
Drivers door won't open
I've had the car for 4 months and this is the fourth time (twice today) that my drivers door will not open, using either the inside or outside handle.
The three other doors work fine. The lock/unlock mechanism works, but there is no tension on the drivers door handles.
I've heard it has something to do with ice on the cable inside the door panel. My dealership told me not to wash the car when it's cold outside, which is a dumb answer considering it's close to or freezing from October to March.
I usually have to run the car and wait anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour before it will open.
Any TSB's on this or recommendations?
The three other doors work fine. The lock/unlock mechanism works, but there is no tension on the drivers door handles.
I've heard it has something to do with ice on the cable inside the door panel. My dealership told me not to wash the car when it's cold outside, which is a dumb answer considering it's close to or freezing from October to March.
I usually have to run the car and wait anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour before it will open.
Any TSB's on this or recommendations?
G37 Sedan Door Freezing
I've had this problem for two years, as many others have. The issue is not with the door lock freezing, but with the door latch actuator assembly. The driver's door actuator is prone to developing condensation inside the sealed part of the unit, and the condensate turns to ice in our lovely winters. I was never able to find a TSB for this problem, but after sufficient complaints from me, the dealer replaced the actuator under warranty. There have been several mornings with temperatures around minus 30 degrees since then, and it seems like the problem has been solved. Since this is well-known defect, anyone with this problem whose G37 is out of warranty should push for a free actuator replacement.
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I've had the car for 4 months and this is the fourth time (twice today) that my drivers door will not open, using either the inside or outside handle.
The three other doors work fine. The lock/unlock mechanism works, but there is no tension on the drivers door handles.
I've heard it has something to do with ice on the cable inside the door panel. My dealership told me not to wash the car when it's cold outside, which is a dumb answer considering it's close to or freezing from October to March.
I usually have to run the car and wait anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour before it will open.
Any TSB's on this or recommendations?
The three other doors work fine. The lock/unlock mechanism works, but there is no tension on the drivers door handles.
I've heard it has something to do with ice on the cable inside the door panel. My dealership told me not to wash the car when it's cold outside, which is a dumb answer considering it's close to or freezing from October to March.
I usually have to run the car and wait anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour before it will open.
Any TSB's on this or recommendations?
I've had this problem for two years, as many others have. The issue is not with the door lock freezing, but with the door latch actuator assembly. The driver's door actuator is prone to developing condensation inside the sealed part of the unit, and the condensate turns to ice in our lovely winters. I was never able to find a TSB for this problem, but after sufficient complaints from me, the dealer replaced the actuator under warranty. There have been several mornings with temperatures around minus 30 degrees since then, and it seems like the problem has been solved. Since this is well-known defect, anyone with this problem whose G37 is out of warranty should push for a free actuator replacement.
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Tired of climbing out of the passenger side! Any ideas?
Yes!
I always have my vehicle washed at the dealer and have never experienced a problem.
Yesterday morning it was 4 degrees above zero when I left for work and 2 above zero when I arrived 50 miles later. I drive about three miles to the NJ Turnpike and before I enter I remove my jacket and drive in a short sleeve shirt with the heat blasting at 76 degrees. I may back it down a bit if the cabin starts to feel too warm but that heat in the cabin gets rid of any moisture in the doors and windows.
Try it!
Telcoman
I always have my vehicle washed at the dealer and have never experienced a problem.
Yesterday morning it was 4 degrees above zero when I left for work and 2 above zero when I arrived 50 miles later. I drive about three miles to the NJ Turnpike and before I enter I remove my jacket and drive in a short sleeve shirt with the heat blasting at 76 degrees. I may back it down a bit if the cabin starts to feel too warm but that heat in the cabin gets rid of any moisture in the doors and windows.
Try it!
Telcoman
Solution
Sorry to necro this thread but I wanted to help had this happen to me for the second time today it was 32 yesterday and thought it would be fine to get a wash arrg I'm 6'3 and getting out the passenger side is not easy the solution is simple crank the heat to max set it to top vent aim it at the door you can really get it going by maxing both seat heaters you may want to wear shorts.
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KZK
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Sep 2, 2015 05:30 AM





